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Broken OPS perform just like a taper shaft?

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I was looking to buy a broken ops and turn it into a tapered shaft, are they the same and do they perform the same way?

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it would if u could try and push the tennon out with a pole like someone else did on this site. then it would be perfect

Is it hard to pull the tenon out?

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it would if u could try and push the tennon out with a pole like someone else did on this site. then it would be perfect

Is it hard to pull the tenon out?

is that tennon that crap you see inside the synergy, my friend broike his synergy at practice right by the blade, and there was this balck stuff and it like sparkled kinda

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It has foam in it. I was the one who used the rod to ram it out. Go from the other end with a pole or something (I used some steel rod I found in my basement, LOL) and just start ramming the thing out. Start doing that as soon as you see foam and if it doesn't come out right away, just cur a little more (1/4" at a time). Then insert your tapered blade and go at it.

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Iam a bit confused, So where is the perfect cut? Where should i cut the OPS so that it performs like a ops, I had a rubber response and i cut it till there was no tennon and then i used a tapered blade, but i find i dont get the 11 inch taper that a tapered shaft boasts. So is there anywhere i can cut it to retain the 11 inch taper so that it shoots like ops?

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Cut where the fuse point is and chip out all the crap inside by doing what was posted above. You should be able to see the fuse point with the naked eye.

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Of course. You wouldn't be able to fit anything in there if you didn't. Pushing it back won't help with anything.

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if you heat the fuse point would the blade of the fused synergy just come out along with the tenon?

Edit: On my Synergy 03 model I think I can feel and see the fuse point, its on the bubble/arrow things but i can only feel it on the back side (i have left shanny and on the other side of the blade i can feel something i cant really explain and i see a line it difnitly looks like a fuse point but why isnt it on the forehand side aslo.

one more thing, if i cut there how does that result in a 11 inch taper that tapered shafts boast. I can only see like maybe 5 inches of taperd on an uncut synergy.

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No on the heating thing. I think you could only do that with the older model M1's. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. If you're still confused about where to cut then try tapping a keychain or something like that along the shaft. You'll know where to cut when it doesn't sound hollow anymore.

Easton doesn't advertise an 11 inch taper... TPS does.

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The earliest M-1 models and some XX's you could heat up the shaft very well and take out the blade. A few have done it to their M-1's and I did it to my XX with someones advice to do it. I don't think you can just heat and pull with the Synergy line though.

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At my LHS they sell broken OPS from the NHL and all they do is cut it to where it is not hollow so they cut till there is no more tennon so in order for the OPS to perform like a taperd shaft you have to at least do some chizeling so you get some more taper or do you just cut it to where theres no more tennon left?

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