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Blunt_Force_Trauma

assembly procedure

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I would like some help with regards to assembling some composite shafts and blades for my son.

I scanned the board for help to this issue, but figured I could get right to the crux of my need by posting.

I picked up some Vapor X Jr shafts dirt cheap online for my son. As well as some wood/glass Bauer Jr blades. Problem is I've never assembled any two piece sticks before. So I would some step by step procedures to make sure I don't screw this up. For example I noticed there is a slight concave to the inside edges of the shaft.

My first impression is the blade OD and the shaft ID is that they look pretty much size for size, i'm guessing for a good tight interference fit. So how much heat do I apply to the shaft? the glue on the blade? Do I have to use a heat gun, or will a good high watt hair dryer suffice? How do I know when its good to go together?Also wooded butt end caps, (that doesn't sound right), any advantage? I don't want to cut the shaft too much.

Also a quick note, any suggestions to purchasing a OPS, we've (He's) aleady tried a Ballistik Jr. and wasn't really happy with it. For his age (9 y/o) IMO the wood blade offers a little less deflection, and increased puck control, Plus he can't shoot hard enuff to take advantage of the one piece. (but we're working on it).

Well thx for any help and Cheers!

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another thing is to make sure what type of shaft you have. If it is a tapered shaft don't try to force a straight shaft in it.

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Get a cheap heat gun, as a hair dryer is going to waste a lot of time. I would also pick up some glue sticks at your local craft store, I prefer the longer ones as I burn my fingers a lot less with them. Heat up the shaft and the blade, slap a little extra glue on the blade and put it in.

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First off, don't panic. :) Even if you mess it up, you can re-heat the shaft and remove the blade (I had to do this because the first time I put it in, the blade wiggled when it got cold; wasn't quite snug enough).

The way I've done it in the past is to use my oven. Preheat it (door closed) to about 250 degrees (F). When it's good and warm, open it up and hold the butt end of the blade (the hosel) and the blade end of the shaft inside the oven for a couple of minutes, until they're good and warm and the glue is soft. Slide the blade into the shaft and let it cool. Same trick works to get the blade back out.

To tell when the glue is ready, it just needs to be soft--the same consistency you get when you use a hot glue gun, for example.

You can also have your LHS do it, especially if you got the shaft, blade, or both there.

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Muck's link is good. And as Chadd says, get a heat gun. Cheap and cheerful is fine. I paid about $30 bucks for mine.

Be careful not to overheat the shaft. It only takes about a minute of heating before it's ready. Also when heating the shaft do about 10 strokes with the heat gun per side, then rotate it and do 10 more times, rotate etc.

I'm a big fan of the shaft and blade combo as I think it gives you the best of a few worlds:

- Performance (good shots and you can keep puck feel if you use wood blades)

- Flexibility to try different blade patterns/curves

- Cost efficient

Good luck!

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:P One trick I learned: If the blade hosel is a touch loose in the shaft-DO NOT try to make up the gap with glue! It will just get loose anyway- try this: While your off to get your heat gun pick up a roll of fibreglass drywall joint tape-DONT get the paper stuff-

1.Figure out which way the blade is loose

2.Take a strip or two of the tape and run up one side and down the other of the loose side of the hosel. Dont wrap the hosel-it will just slide when you put the shaft on.

3.Put the heat to it and coat the hosel with a touch of glue(covering the tape)

4.While it is still hot slide the shaft on and clean up any extra glue.

5.Your done! Go have a beer and watch the kid do his Sidney Crosby imitation

The fibreglass tape works great as a shim to take up the slop if the hosel is a little undersize

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Get a cheap heat gun, as a hair dryer is going to waste a lot of time. I would also pick up some glue sticks at your local craft store, I prefer the longer ones as I burn my fingers a lot less with them. Heat up the shaft and the blade, slap a little extra glue on the blade and put it in.

Glue gun solves the burnt finger problem.

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I also use the over but I simply hold the shaft or blade about 6 inches above the open flame of the burners. You just have to make sure you hold it up high enough so that its not near the open flame as that will destroy any composite stick, blade, or shaft REAL fast.

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I also use the over but I simply hold the shaft or blade about 6 inches above the open flame of the burners. You just have to make sure you hold it up high enough so that its not near the open flame as that will destroy any composite stick, blade, or shaft REAL fast.

That's why I use the oven; easier to avoid direct flame contact, plus it helps to surround the whole shaft/blade with heat at the same time rather than heating only one side at a time.

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I picked up a gun for $32 at Lowe's if you're wondering about price.

I about bought a heat gun but I tried my wife's embossing (scrap book) mini heat gun and it works great. Gets really hot and saves tons of time over a hair dryer.

I guess I can't complain about the money she spends on scrapbooking now that I'm using her tools for my hockey equipment. :D

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