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iceburg19

Sprung Hockey

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Keith,

Would you be willing to post a pic of the new large frame along with the medium so we could see how they compare to one another?

Thanks

Rick Henry

Here's some 3D drawings. If you look at the medium, and imaging half an inch between each wheel and you've got it. The RA beef is pretty evident, but to make up for the increase in material, I chopped out some from the top of the frame. You can see the places where it's gone. Pretty thick areas, so some material came in and some went out. :)

AAAIce-Side.jpg

assembly-right.jpg

RA-left.jpg

Frame-bottom.jpg

assembly-front.jpg

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hey Keith, would you be able to put a template with the hole locations in the packages sent out in the future? It would help some of us with the mounting ....

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hey Keith, would you be able to put a template with the hole locations in the packages sent out in the future? It would help some of us with the mounting ....

Mr Fixit says you can trace the outline of your frame onto a piece of stiff card stock like folder paper, and carefully mark the spots for the holes and take them out with a hole punch. Mark the center across it and draw a line down the center, lengthwise. I also punch a hole in the length center so I can see through the template to my marks on the boot sole. In fact holes along the length line also help keep it straight L/R.

You still want to check the spots with the frame WITH THE FRONT AND REAR WHEELS IN AND THE TWO CENTER ONES OUT SO YOU CAN HOLD THE FRAME AGAINST THE BOOT BETTER.

Double check the position of the front and rear wheels L/R and F/R. When you have one perfectly placed, MARK THE SOLE WHERE THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE FRAME GO. That way you can do two boots that are the same, with both of them right.

Since they are only screwed in, if you do screw up a little (to a lot) all you have to do is unscrew them and use a Dremel with the small barrel cutter to extend your holes in the direction desired. I fixed a pair with Tough soles this way in less than half an hour. One was aligned right but too far back, while the other one was just dumb. This pair made me start marking the placement front and rear in addition to the mount holes. I'd put off fixing them, but it was a total snap.

The template will help, extra measuring helps, comparing the marking on both boots for consistency and correctness helps, and literally measuring the front and rear placement marks on both boots to make sure they are the same, helps.

And the last thing you do before and after drilling pilot holes is place the frame on the boot and check to make sure everything's where you want it to end up. You can put something through each hole to make sure they're centered with the frame correctly placed. Don't be surprised when perfect pilot holes yield a couple of weirdos. You may need to "adjust" a couple.

If you have a plastic mallet or similar device, you can whack the frames to align them better as you tighten down the screws. If you make the T-nut holes a little over sized you can usually get at least 1/16" in all directions for adjustments. When tightened down it'll never move. You will be surprised to find out that your new mount is Better than the factory ice or roller mount.

The trick for me is to practice what I preach. Every time.

I could post a picture, but a million words are better than any picture. :lol:

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Well, after a lot of struggle, two lacerations, and about 4 hours, I finally got the chassis off of my original Wicked Lights. Now I juts have to order up some Sprungs and I'll be in business!

Also thanks Sprungster for posting those 3d drawings, I'm an engineering student/nerd so it was cool to see all the different views of the chassis.

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I sent Keith a PM but haven't heard anything back yet so maybe someone else could help.

When ordering the Sprungs, do you just put in the requested color and stuff into the comments box on the paypal page? I couldn't see any other place with any options or directions so I'm assuming thats the way to do it.

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I sent Keith a PM but haven't heard anything back yet so maybe someone else could help.

When ordering the Sprungs, do you just put in the requested color and stuff into the comments box on the paypal page? I couldn't see any other place with any options or directions so I'm assuming thats the way to do it.

The way I see it, the current model is available in white only. Custom coloring is suppossed to be simple though. Check a few pages back to read comments regarding dying the chassis et cetera.

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Oh I see,

I kept seeing these blue and black chassis and just assumed they were factory dyed. Thanks for the help.

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Oh I see,

I kept seeing these blue and black chassis and just assumed they were factory dyed. Thanks for the help.

If you want more info, do a google search for "dying lacrosse heads"

Its the same process. I had the best luck getting a good deep black by using a packet of black and a packet of either navy blue or brown-so two packets of dye but one recipe's worth of water. and don't be afraid to let it sit for a few hours-it can't get "over" black.

Other colors are a bit trickier to get exactly how you want it, but patience and preparation make it easier.

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Oh I see,

I kept seeing these blue and black chassis and just assumed they were factory dyed. Thanks for the help.

If you want more info, do a google search for "dying lacrosse heads"

Its the same process. I had the best luck getting a good deep black by using a packet of black and a packet of either navy blue or brown-so two packets of dye but one recipe's worth of water. and don't be afraid to let it sit for a few hours-it can't get "over" black.

Other colors are a bit trickier to get exactly how you want it, but patience and preparation make it easier.

Sweet, thanks for the info. I think I will have to go ahead and dye mine black to match the Wicked Light boots.

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Oh I see,

I kept seeing these blue and black chassis and just assumed they were factory dyed. Thanks for the help.

If you want more info, do a google search for "dying lacrosse heads"

Its the same process. I had the best luck getting a good deep black by using a packet of black and a packet of either navy blue or brown-so two packets of dye but one recipe's worth of water. and don't be afraid to let it sit for a few hours-it can't get "over" black.

Other colors are a bit trickier to get exactly how you want it, but patience and preparation make it easier.

Sweet, thanks for the info. I think I will have to go ahead and dye mine black to match the Wicked Light boots.

Be sure to take them apart first-i'm pretty sure soaking in water isn't the best thing for the pin that holds the arms on-not sure about the "spring" peice.

For me, to get a deep black took about a 35 minute soak in the dye liquid. You can try masking off areas with electrical tape (hold a lighter to it for a short time to get a good seal). I almost wish I had multiple pairs to try out some dye ideas that came to me after I did my own.

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I have a bud who's done some fantastic skateboard flash and I'm turning some pairs over to him. He does great stencil art, so I can't wait to see what he comes up with.

We just got a wonderful US distribution offer, which we're following through on as I type away here. Canada next, eh?

And here's a link to some nice pictures if anybody wants to see Sprungs at work.

http://outcastshockey.com/outcasts_pages/photos.html

The roller boots I saw were way different from the boots shown above. Dark and delicious would describe them pretty good. If they had them out and around, maybe there's pictures.

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Just put in my order for the sprungs. Can't wait till I get done with finals so that I can get em mounted!

When I get them, will I need to/should I measure out and drill new holes on my Wicked Lights or can I just use the existing mounting holes from the stock chassis.

Sorry if this was already answered, I looked back quite a few pages and couldn't find any info, but any advice would be appreciated.

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this frame never seems to stop amazing me,iwas watching my son matt play from outside the rink instead of behind the bench and he was skating full speed with the puck,while he was making his turn,iwas watching his skates and the angle his skates were at and the way the frame and wheel set up just stuck to the floor.i asked him what he likes best about the frames and he always says the turning and easy stopping.

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Easter Egg dipping.

Here's an experiment that did good. The frames are dipped and washed with more time in the hot dye for the darker ends. It goes very fast, so you have to stay on top of it to do it the same twice. I thought of it while the dye was there boiling away, and did it very nice. Beginners luck, for sure! :)

They look airbrushed in the fishy flesh. Like blue sharks. The center area and inner arms are much lighter than they look in the pics. I may add a yellow dipping for more exotic coloring. My skates.

Flexlite9-bluesharks-pair.jpgFlexlite9-bluesharks-side.jpgFlexlite9-bluesharks.jpg

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Looks pretty nice, Its kinda hard to see what its like with the picture but if its got a nice even fade I bet it would look really cool.

My frames are waiting for me at my house, I just have to two more final tests to go and then I can go home and get them mounted up. Can't wait!!

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Here's a big circle. Not many people have seen this much of these aluminum prototypes I made in '98 with Mission. They decided to go with the Vibe, instead.

Big difference between old and new. The OGs use studs instead of pivot axles and the wheels can be right next to each other. There isn't much material in those rocker arms, but they carried accumulative tons of happy 180-220 lb pro skaters.

These frames defined UNDERBUILT, but the same configuration made from forged mag/aluminum alloy with some carbon fiber here and there Will be most strong and excellent. And LIGHT.

Configuration does not mean what the skate looks like. It does mean what "how it works" looks like. I think. :)

OldNew-Side.jpgOldNew-Top.jpgOldNew-Bottom.jpgOldNew-Front.jpgOldNew-Rear.jpg

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I really like the shaded look on the frames and they go good with the shaded scuff guard on the toe of the Nike boot. Even though I live in Indiana I'm a big Sharks fan and those skates have a certain San Jose Sharks look.

Nice work Keith.

Rick Henry

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I really like the shaded look on the frames and they go good with the shaded scuff guard on the toe of the Nike boot. Even though I live in Indiana I'm a big Sharks fan and those skates have a certain San Jose Sharks look.

Nice work Keith.

Rick Henry

There's a rumor that some sharks might be swimming around in these this summer.

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Keith, that would be pretty sweet if it were to happen. I remember back in the early 90's lots of the NHL guys were experimenting with inline and roller hockey and I even had an artical for a while about a Major League pitcher for the Yankees that played roller hockey in the off season to stay in shape. When I got out of hockey for a while a few years back I ended up throwing away all my old Roller Hockey Magazine and Inline Hockey Magazine back issues during a move, a mistake I regret even to this day. I keep saying this over and over everytime someone posts new photos but those Nikes with the shaded frame are to date the best looking Sprung skates I have seen.

Keep posting them up guys I can't wait to see what comes next.

Rick Henry

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Finally got a look at the sprungs tonight, I did some sizing up but I will have to wait till tomorrow for the actual mounting to begin. I took some preliminary pics and they look awesome, hopefully they skate juts as well.

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