Sprung Hockey

[Ultimus 0]

Those are certainly nice.

*drools*

[baz5 0]

best all black skates i have seen.

wow those are nice.

Keith

How much for a pair of those in a size 9.5?

Baz5

[sdcopp 1]

Keith,

How far out are the medium A8s?

Not nearly so far out as they will be farout. I'm aiming for April or May.

In the meantime, we've got a minimum size crossover for the LA8 that seems to be an 8.5-9 Rbk/CCM, a 9-9.5 Easton, and 10.5 Mission. The Eastons and Rbk's are new, but the Missions are old Type M's, so the size might be different now. As more players on A8's let us know their boot size, we'll know more.

I've hauled the picture of these skates forward because they're being tested in OC to see if players like the way they look and perform. What do you think, would this package be competitive in the market?

what price point? I think that really determines if it would be competitive or not. The RBK brand is a known commodity, but the Sprung frame is not to the general roller hockey populace.

Assuming it's the same as a reg 8K or maybe $20-25 more like a special package muscle car. The package looks great, and really different if you've never seen Sprungs. So that, along with the point of purchase material explaining what's up, is going to get players to try them on. And that's pretty much it. There isn't anything else in hockey that demos better in a ten foot square patch of floor. Plenty of room for a player to do some tight turns and reverses and then say, "Wow, they're just like ice!" :)

I think that's a good go to market if this is an initial "production" model. I think trying to charge much more than the 8K is a bad plan. Do you have any plans to look at the $200-$250 price point (5K? 6K?) Most consumers are at the sweet spot in that price range. Again, I like seeing a healthy selection at the LHS, wouldn't mind seeing another option that continues to force manufacturers to up the ante yr over yr.

[ATLstealth09 0]

REDICULOUS RBKs. Those things look amazing. Maybe RBK should ship out another version of the skates. 8K Type S.

[D-MaN88 0]

Keith, is there any way to get white rocker arms?

The reason I ask is because I have a basically brand new pair of original Wicked Light boots coming in the mail and I'm thinking of a Wicked Light with black sprungs/white rocker arm set-up with some swiss bearings and rink rat hornets but if not white rocker arms I guess I could do black.

I was just wondering since I'm thinking about sticking some medium a8s on there when they are available.

If you could chime in whether or not the white would work, that would be appreciated!

Thanks

[Spreedizzle 1]

Keith, is there any way to get white rocker arms?

The reason I ask is because I have a basically brand new pair of original Wicked Light boots coming in the mail and I'm thinking of a Wicked Light with black sprungs/white rocker arm set-up with some swiss bearings and rink rat hornets but if not white rocker arms I guess I could do black.

I was just wondering since I'm thinking about sticking some medium a8s on there when they are available.

If you could chime in whether or not the white would work, that would be appreciated!

Thanks

Your easiest option would be to get the all white chassis and then remove the rocker arms and then dye the main chassis black. Go back a page or two and look at my post with the Photobucket links and you will understand what I am referring to.

[li7039 0]

one more day spree. You mounting them tomorrow

[Spreedizzle 1]

one more day spree. You mounting them tomorrow

HA....I'm in Asheville NC. In other words....nobody does same day service on any type of hockey skate repair. I actually go to a snowboard shop where the former equipment manager for the Asheville Smoke (ECHL....but they have since left Asheville) still has his rivot press. I'll leave them with him for a couple of days and then come and grab them. With any luck....I should be skating on them this coming weekend.

[li7039 0]

nice, im thinking about getting them put on my next pair of skates

[Sprungster 5]

Keith, is there any way to get white rocker arms?

The reason I ask is because I have a basically brand new pair of original Wicked Light boots coming in the mail and I'm thinking of a Wicked Light with black sprungs/white rocker arm set-up with some swiss bearings and rink rat hornets but if not white rocker arms I guess I could do black.

I was just wondering since I'm thinking about sticking some medium a8s on there when they are available.

If you could chime in whether or not the white would work, that would be appreciated!

Thanks

Your easiest option would be to get the all white chassis and then remove the rocker arms and then dye the main chassis black. Go back a page or two and look at my post with the Photobucket links and you will understand what I am referring to.

I just did a pair of OG Wickeds with white frame and black rocker arms. I've done them both ways, and I like the white with black arms best. But, with that said, here's a brand new pair with the black frame.

[nyrmetros 0]

I am new to these boards and don't really know much about the sprung chasis other than everyone on these boards is talking about them, but those new '08 rbk 8k looks amazing with that chasis.

I am a big rbk inline skate fan because I have flat feet and the rbks don't hurt my feet. I have the rbk 4k and 5k '07 models. Would changing the chasis from the stock chasis in anyway affect the way the rbk fits around my foot? I'm very curious/worried about that. I don't think the rbk 8k is in my price range, but the rbk 5 model is.

I play outdoor hockey on on a nyc public rink with rough asphault and I fall a lot. How would the sprung frames gold up? I wear a size 10D skate, but I am not sure if I sould be wearing a 9.5D or not.

[D-MaN88 0]

Keith, thank for the pic. That set-up is sick.

[SickBoy 0]

I am new to these boards and don't really know much about the sprung chasis other than everyone on these boards is talking about them, but those new '08 rbk 8k looks amazing with that chasis.

I am a big rbk inline skate fan because I have flat feet and the rbks don't hurt my feet. I have the rbk 4k and 5k '07 models. Would changing the chasis from the stock chasis in anyway affect the way the rbk fits around my foot? I'm very curious/worried about that. I don't think the rbk 8k is in my price range, but the rbk 5 model is.

I play outdoor hockey on on a nyc public rink with rough asphault and I fall a lot. How would the sprung frames gold up? I wear a size 10D skate, but I am not sure if I sould be wearing a 9.5D or not.

I've had Sprungs on my outdoor skates - the '07 RBK 5k's, actually - for a while now. The outer corners of the rocker arms wear down a little when you fall, but it's nothing that causes any trouble or anything. The RBK boots fits me well, and the Sprungs mount on them easily. It's a great combo, and changing the chassis doesn't affect the fit of the boot at all.

Got a new setup for my inline league, they're not quite as sexy as Keith's pic above, but...

[Spreedizzle 1]

I've got the same setup that should be mounted by friday.

RBK 7K's but I will have A8's mounted onto them. Should have pics up this weekend on them.

Nice setup by the way Sickboy

[Patrick67 1]

Nice Rbk's.

[li7039 0]

Sprungster are you going to have the RBK 8k with sprugs sold in LHS or online sort of like Graf g35s and CCM skates a few years ago that came with T blades

[Sprungster 5]

Sprungster are you going to have the RBK 8k with sprungs sold in LHS or online sort of like Graf g35s and CCM skates a few years ago that came with T blades

Speak of the Devil!!!

I have no idea. The special K's are a possible product, maybe with Sprungs. All I know is, there's a bunch of lucky players out there testing them. As for the marketing, that would be their call. Did I say I'd love to be connected to that boot? I would love to be connected to that boot! :)

Maybe Rbk/CCM checks out the thread from time to time to see what kind of reaction the skates get and what questions turn up. I hope so, cause people seem to like them a lot and there have been some very intelligent questions.

[Grinder 2]

Okay, question about the mounting of my shiny new A8's. To find the center of the toe, I measured square across the ball of the foot, and across the heel, marking center on both. The resultant line down the middle of the sole doesn't follow the same line as where the stock chassis went - at the toe, it is several degrees closer to the outside of the boot than the original (Mission R2's, BTW).

Did I do the measurements correctly? Should the Sprungs sit at a different angle than the original chassis? Should I just stop having a blonde moment and drill the f***er anyways, since getting these mounted will be the highlight of my holidays?

Thanks in advance.

[Sprungster 5]

Okay, question about the mounting of my shiny new A8's. To find the center of the toe, I measured square across the ball of the foot, and across the heel, marking center on both. The resultant line down the middle of the sole doesn't follow the same line as where the stock chassis went - at the toe, it is several degrees closer to the outside of the boot than the original (Mission R2's, BTW).

Did I do the measurements correctly? Should the Sprungs sit at a different angle than the original chassis? Should I just stop having a blonde moment and drill the f***er anyways, since getting these mounted will be the highlight of my holidays?

Thanks in advance.

To find the centerline lengthwise, you mark the center of the toe cap, which is usually around your second toe and is often part of the cap design lines. Then you mark the rear at the center of the heel of the boot, which is often a little different from the center of the sole-plate. Connect the two marks with a line front to rear and you have it. You'll need to double-check the marks and line, and stick to it when it's right.

If you're careful, it'll be similar to the original frame placement, and often better. If I'm 1/16" off on the front I hope it's to the inside and not the outside, which is harder to skate on.

The 1/4" rearward of center placement seems to work with the A8, same as the A6. Drawing a line across the sole at 1/4" behind center will help front to rear placement. Be sure of the center by looking STRAIGHT down on the center cross-member of the frame, which should line up with your line across the sole. If you don't spot it straight down with no tilt, you could miss the mark by as much as 1/4".

Before you drill holes, put the front and rear wheels on one of the frames and check the alignment front to rear and side to side. Special attention to front and rear centering and left and right at the toe and heel.

If anybody else has any helpful hints, please feel free to share.

[Ultimus 0]

You know, I just had a really "duh" moment, as in why didn't I think of that?

When mounting the frames, why not place them on a sheet of paper and draw an outline of the boot? Then do the measurement on the paper and put the paper back up to the boot and mark the boot through the paper and then proceed to drill?

[Grinder 2]

Keith,

Thanks for the quick reply. That's a big help.

[Sprungster 5]

You know, I just had a really "duh" moment, as in why didn't I think of that?

When mounting the frames, why not place them on a sheet of paper and draw an outline of the boot? Then do the measurement on the paper and put the paper back up to the boot and mark the boot through the paper and then proceed to drill?

I've done paper templates, with holes punched, along with many other ways of marking before drilling. I even have frames that I've cut down to templates with enlarged holes for markers.

But, the way described below is what I always have come back to.

Mark the sole correctly and double check it, and drill only enough to make sure you're right. Nothing worse than a whole bunch of holes in the wrong place by a just a little bit. Rivets don't stand up good in Swiss cheese.

I locate the frame and drill through it with a long drill bit that keeps the drill chuck from grinding away the frame. The first two holes are usually up front, opposite each other, and clear of old holes. I then soft set the rivets so I can double check the position at all important spots. If things are right, I set them. Then I drill the other holes through the frame in the order of easy clear holes. I want the frame down solid before I drill into the edges of old holes, because otherwise the old hole will drag the frame over to it.

The most important single "trick" I've ever found about mounting is whether or not the machine has inline mounting tools, which are long and thin, as opposed to short and fat ice mount tools. One's easy the other is not easy, but is done all the time by people much better than me. And once in a while by me when there's no choice. Mounting in Taylor last year was not fun and easy.

[Rick 0]

Keith,

I stirred up some interest in the Sprung chassis last night. I played in a pickup game with about 15 other players and several had questions about my Sprung setup. I was the only one with Sprungs and most had a hi/lo setup of some kind and a couple had a Sure-Grip setup. After my first shift guys on the bench started asking questions about my "plastic chassis". I explained that it really isn't plastic but a space age composite that is probably more durable than 7000 series aluminum and that all four wheels are suspended independently. I told them about the Sprung web site and told them to check out mod squad hockey online also. Hope it brings some business.

Rick Henry

[Patrick67 1]

Space age composite?... erm it my book it looks and feels like plastic.

[sdcopp 1]

but it's not the same plastic used in a kid's toy. I recall Keith saying something about looking into a plastic used in handguns, much more durable (and pricey) stuff.

It'd be like saying all metal is the same for all the other chassis/frames out there