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rawa9

Converting broken synergies

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I remember seeing a picture of where to cut a broken synergy to insert a tapered blade. Does anyone have that picture, or can they describe where on the shaft i should cut?

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if u look really closely, u will see a fuse point line on the bottom of the shaft where the blade goes together with the shaft. cut right there, then youll have to chisel out the shaft and it will fit a tapered blade perfectly

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bringing up an old topic, but how hard is this to do, and will it only work on a retail synergy or 1st gen etc. i just aquired a broken pro stock synergy and i have a tapered blade so i was just wondering if this is quick and easy or if i'd be better off just flipping it for a standard blade in the top.

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i also have a really old Synergy. was wondering if the technique described in the Dolomite thread would work.

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if it seem's to hard, just cut your stick, flip it over and use a standard blade

wouldn't this throw off the kick point?

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I found my shot to be harder with the stick flipped over, but that was probably just me, the whole kick point thing is all in your heads, if nobody knew about the kick point stuff on an OPS', i bet they wouldn't be able to tell the difference once they flip it over. People think that since they missed the net with their flipped over OPS that its because the kick point is off or w/e. It all depends on how picky he is.

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with tapered, standard shafts... there actually is a distinctive kick point for each. i see what you mean, but i don't think it's just a mental thing.

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I found my shot to be harder with the stick flipped over, but that was probably just me, the whole kick point thing is all in your heads, if nobody knew about the kick point stuff on an OPS', i bet they wouldn't be able to tell the difference once they flip it over. People think that since they missed the net with their flipped over OPS that its because the kick point is off or w/e. It all depends on how picky he is.

Because it had a higher kick point when you flipped it over, the lower the kick point means the quicker the release is.

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from what i read, cutting for a tapered blade seems to involve a lot of trial and error and chiseling, not exactly my cup of tea, im not all that fussy about the kickpoint so i think i'll just flip it. i was just trying to get rid of a tapered blade i have laying around, oh well...

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from what i read, cutting for a tapered blade seems to involve a lot of trial and error and chiseling, not exactly my cup of tea, im not all that fussy about the kickpoint so i think i'll just flip it. i was just trying to get rid of a tapered blade i have laying around, oh well...

that is the general concensus. For people that have not done it before its a lot of work and headache (cutting off the minimum to ensure you did not cut above the tenon). unless you like experimenting and/or want to save some dough its not really worth it. I always had to spend time cutting a bit here a bit there, file here and file there (after spending a hour on it you might regret your decision).

It also did not help that I did not have the "best" tools.

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