Tapered vs. OPS

[stick9 905]

I tried the search feature on this but didn't come up with anything that would help.

I'm gonna pick up a Dolomite at the begining of the season. I was thinking of maybe getting a tappered shaft and Dolomite blade. A few questions.

~Is the performence really the same?

~Does it make sense to buy a tappered shaft if I plan on using a Dolomite blade? (I could buy the one piece and cut it if and when it breaks)

~Will it still feel the same if I choose to use another type of blade like a CCM or Easton?

[LetsGoWings13 0]

I cannot tell a difference. The blade feel will depend on the company but most composites will not have a huge difference. When you cut a broken ops you automatically loose 2 or 3 inches with a tapered shaft you wont have that problem plus if you snap the shaft you can use the old blade with a new shaft. After my xn10 breaks I will only have tapered shaft and blade combos or standard blade shaft combos. I break blades way too frequently to be buying any more ops.

[ash_96 0]

I had an XN10 Shaft and an L-2 blade combo and that was my favourite. When that broke I went to an ST and i much prefered the shaft combo.

I think You will have pretty much the same performance, but with less hassle and less work. and probably less money to pay out if you go for the tapered shaft.

[Hoquyguy 0]

The two piece is the way to go. Almost all OPS are really just two pieces with the blade fused to the shaft. So if you buy a two piece tapered stick, you are getting all the benefits of a OPS without the downfalls. On the other hand, if you do have a OPS, if it breaks, you can cut the blade off and insert a tapered blade. Just look for the fuse point (a seam on the lower part of the shaft) and start cutting a little bit at a time up from there. Soon or later you will hit nothing but air inside the shaft and that's where you can insert the new blade. Of course, you will lose some length so you might have to add an end plug. You might also have to place a layer of tape down the length of the hosel of the blade before you hot glue it to keep the blade secure. If you buy a tapered shaft, the blade will fit a little better and the stick won't be too short. In any case, the OPS normally break at the blade so if you already use a two piece, you won't have to buy an entirely new stick. Unless you want too

[Project_2501 0]

Well, for comparison, a R2XN10 + R2 blade (tapered combo) is basically the same as an XN10 OPS, as that is clearly a fused shaft/blade combo. Basically, expect about the same performance, but with a touch more weight below (compensate with a heavier end plug if need be [this is not to say that the weight will even be noticeable]).

[jason@ewh 0]

I say ops all the way... I only say that now.. We can thank the companies for always changing models and creating closeouts.

ops do act better..

[DEATHTRON 19]

There are VERY few one pieces on the market, most others are fused. If they are fused then dont even waste your time, get a tapered shaft, enjoy the same performance but with much more versatility. Unless you were thinking something like a vapor XXXlite.....those are true on pieces, other than that (few exclusions), they are all tapered shafts and blades with paint over the fuse point.

Zach

[DamnLocust 0]

shaft/blade combo all the way. With a OPS, you may decide that you don't like the curve, the lie, or any other feature of the blade, and you're stuck with it. With a shaft/blade combo, you can swap the blade not only for a different pattern, but even for a different manufacturer. Also, if you like the feel of wood blades, this is an option as well.

[Teno 0]

I have used both and don't notice a difference. I've been using Easton shafts and easton and warrior blades. I did however try a bauer blade and it just didn't feel right, the balance seemed off because the blade was heavier.

[Teno 0]

Also, if your considering a dolomite tapered blade. They are longer than the standard tapered blades. Meaning, I had to cut my shafts down for my stick to be the same length. Something to consider.

[eagan09 0]

I have an XXX lite but what are the other true OPS

[Chadd 916]

There is zero performance difference between a tapered shaft and OPS of the same model. The only issue with tapered shafts is they tend to lag behind OPS in technology. If you're thinking about a Dolomite, it's an older design anyway so there's no real loss by going with the shaft. If you're like me and wear out blades more than shafts, tapered shafts will same you a ton of money vs OPS. Go through 10 comp blades at $50 a piece or 10 OPS at $150 each and tell me if there is a savings.

[cobrAA 0]

but what i don't get is...why just not cut the damn OPS and use it as tapered!The only advantage is that your retail tapered shaft will be 52 inch long composite over the cut OPS at 49!

#1. if you cut the retail shaft because they are too long,the cut off ops will be perfect.

#2.Now if you are tall(like me) and need to remove the end plug of the retail shaft, just put a 3 inch easton composite plug. same things.

#3. Now you need around 54 inch tapered, well use the 6 inch wood or composite and cut 1 inch.Now use, whatever you prefer some pefer to use wood to balance the whole thing or you can get a composite plug to have a 100% composite stick.

Now i understand if you are in the #3. maybe you could got with the tapered shaft combo now but if you are in the #2 and 1 situation, You can pay an OPS at 150 and then buy blade at 50$, than buying a blade and a shaft for 150..

[cobrAA 0]

I'm saying this in case you would like to try an OPS and then see the difference between tapered shaft and blade. I played with a r2xn10 for 1 year and now i'm playing with a cut-off ops shaft for the last 1 year and actually i prefer my cut-off ops. My point is that a cut-off ops do the job also!

[DamnLocust 0]

but what i don't get is...why just not cut the damn OPS and use it as tapered!The only advantage is that your retail tapered shaft will be 52 inch long composite over the cut OPS at 49!

It's kind of a pain in the neck to cut the OPS and to make sure that the cut is straight. Not that I haven't done it like 10 times. The shaft/blade combo is just so much more convenient.

The other issue is that in losing 3"of length from the blade tenon, you're also losing 3"of length in the taper zone, which is what gives the tapered shafts their performance, and thus will give (slightly) decreased performance. I doubt that anyone would actually be able to tell the difference, however.

[cobrAA 0]

yea well whatever lol, i use cut off ops because i can getthem for like 50-70cnd over 200cnd for a retail tapered, so that 3 shaft for the price of one..

[AtlantaThrashers01 0]

i prefer tappered shafts i unno i just feel theres more freedom also...u can interchange blades and all, but if u lik one pattern i say go for a OPS i think in the end it cost less then the combo. Im thinkin of getting the combo sorta like urs probably a dolomite tappered with lik 2 or 3 blades cuz i lik to switch sumtimes

[jon93 0]

i prefer tappered shafts i unno i just feel theres more freedom also...u can interchange blades and all, but if u lik one pattern i say go for a OPS i think in the end it cost less then the combo. Im thinkin of getting the combo sorta like urs probably a dolomite tappered with lik 2 or 3 blades cuz i lik to switch sumtimes

i can barley read any of that and whats unno?

[DamnLocust 0]

agreed. and can someone fix the title already? WTF is a tappered shaft?

(it will be more useful in future searches if the typo is fixed.)

[Project_2501 0]

With a OPS, you may decide that you don't like the curve, the lie, or any other feature of the blade, and you're stuck with it.

Yes, this absolutely sucks. I now have an XXX-Lite that I'm not sure what to do with (probably will end up selling it, not 100% sure right now) but can't use it like I should be able to.

[Chadd 916]

but what i don't get is...why just not cut the damn OPS and use it as tapered!The only advantage is that your retail tapered shaft will be 52 inch long composite over the cut OPS at 49!

When you cut the OPS you will lose an inch or two of the taper and the taper is a major source of the increased performance. Lose some taper, lose some performance. Plus a lot of people can't cut in a straight line.

[DamnLocust 0]

Plus a lot of people can't cut in a straight line.

I'm one of those people, so I just sand away at the edges until they're straight.

It's more an issue that the band saw I use doesn't cut straight.

[Chadd 916]

Plus a lot of people can't cut in a straight line.

I'm one of those people, so I just sand away at the edges until they're straight.

It's more an issue that the band saw I use doesn't cut straight.

Using something that wasn't designed for cutting composite materials is another problem.

[DamnLocust 0]

All I've got are the band, a jig and a circular. The circular would probably spliter the shat to hell, and the jig is pretty much the same as the band saw, only less precise. Let's not even get into the sawzall.

The edges aren't rough or anything when I use the band saw, it just gets a crooked cut, so i sand it to even out. I know of people who use a miter or tile saw, but I don't know if they use a different blade or anything. What do you suggest?

[Chadd 916]

Something designed for cutting composite materials. Most golf club-maker supply shops have them.