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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble


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DEATHTRON last won the day on November 26 2014

DEATHTRON had the most liked content!

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  • Birthday 11/01/1985

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  1. Re-profiling before every sharpening...which is not feasible, and I doubt anyone does. Realistically, if you want to preserve a custom profile, you would be wise to follow advice above. Frankly though, keeping the skate "parallel" is just good practice on any skate. Many moons ago, the advice I got when I first started sharpening was "don't sharpen the parts you don't skate on". Not exactly scientific advice, but it makes some sense. Zach
  2. I re-dress my wheel after every skate, generally with 6 or so passes of a normal piece of steel. A good dressing of the wheel is paramount. If you start off with a poorly dressed wheel, you will most likely end up with a poorly sharpened skate. One thing to consider is square edges. Your edges can be level, but if they are not "square" you will still not have a good sharpening. Properly dressing the stone is very important for square edges. Zach
  3. If you have a single head machine: Sharpen just like normal. You will need more passes, however, than a normal sharpening. For FBV: You can use the flattest hollow you have (flattest spinner I have on hand is 1/2) for the bulk of your initial passes, then switch to FBV. If you have a crossgrinder: Well, a gentle pass or two can definitely help you even out the bottom of the blade. Just how I have done it. Zach
  4. For my finishing passes, I use less pressure and go nice and slow. That generally does the job and nets me a very nice (almost mirror-like) finish, consistently. Zach
  5. I've went a different route recently. I sewed Dycem Non-slip to the palm on my lower hand. Really sticks great out of the gate, but seems to slowly but surely loses grip as time goes on. Im going to see if cleaning is my problem, or if I have just worn the material down too far. Im just not finding anything that I can add to the stick that is acceptable. So, why not add to the palm of my glove? The True Z-palm make this really easy to do. Zach
  6. I cut about 6 inches off mine, then replace same length with a wooden plug. I shape via sandpaper/dremel and taper the handle. I cant really stand how blade heavy sticks feel without a good deal of weight in my top hand. I think it just makes my sticks play and feel better. Zach
  7. Thanks Kgbeast. With that said on baking times, I can confidently say these skates do not appear to be very thermoformable (trust me, I baked mine hotter and longer). Still a nice skate, though. Zach
  8. Don't know anything about how the tacks fit. That said: I was a perfect fit in the 8.5w 705. I find in the 8.5r PK7700 the forfoot and length is the same, the heel feels a little wider. Volume seems about the same. Less volume than the 9035, narrower heel. I came from an 8.25d mako2, the heel is wider on the pk7700. Nice and light though, which I feel too many people overlook in a skate. That's what I have, Zach
  9. Anyone know pk7700 bake times and temp? Box didn't have any info. Thanks, Zach
  10. How is your final slow pass(es) looking? Could be a myriad of other things as well. Zach
  11. "Expensive" is a relative term. Mimizk has his own pattern and knows what he wants, and would seem like he is comfortable with what going the custom route costs. Zach
  12. I use it, and have given some of the skates I sharpen the blind test. Not everyone liked it. I like it, but honestly, it doesn't make a big enough difference given the price. Just my opinion. Zach
  13. That stated weight for the VH was boot only. Zach
  14. I have both, and find the butterfly gauge superior. It would be worth it to see if they will change it out for you. Zach Don't know why It wouldn't quote. The above is answering the user "Angeles" asking which blackstone level users find better.
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