Where to Cut the SL for Taper Shaft?

[lancerplayer 0]

So my SL broke and I want to make a tapered shaft out of it. I have done a search and got many different opinions on where the shaft needs to be cut. I have included pics which, I feel, will be easier to understand.

The fuse point is obvious so that can be the starting point I guess.

[ash_96 0]

Id say cut at the fuse point, and see how it fits. you may have to chisel out whats left of the SL blade/hosel.

[2-Keys 1]

chiseling out the blade is a bitch. its extremely hard if you dont have the right tools. which i didnt have when i tried to do mine. i ended up not doing it and i sold the shaft ot a friend.

[BK 0]

you could always heat and pull..

Just takes a vice, a heat gun and some muscles..

I also found hitting it with a rubber mallot while pulling helps :)

[stevoc 0]

I took a synthesis blade and laid it next to the blade on my synergy, then took a marker and made a line where to hosel would meet the shaft. I cut along that line to make my synergya tapered shaft. Getting the rest of the blade out is a pain, and I ended up ruining my shaft for tapered use.

I wish I knew about heating it up and pulling out the blade. I'm guessing that it has to get VERY hot. Anyone do this that can share results (time it took, how hot the shaft got, etc.)

[DamnLocust 0]

My friend did it with an old triflex. I actually tried doing it with a prostock mission L-2 and it absolutely would not budge I didn't have a vise, but was pulling with my brother and heating it like crazy, with a heat gun , stove, and blowtorch. I wound up cutting it. I think different manufacturers use different glues. TPS's are supposedly easy to pull, but some others use epoxies and can be a real PITA.

[pantherfan 0]

Cut just before the "E" thing and then chissel out the rest or use snout nose pliers to pull the exess out

[kenneth 5]

My friend did it with an old triflex. I actually tried doing it with a prostock mission L-2 and it absolutely would not budge I didn't have a vise, but was pulling with my brother and heating it like crazy, with a heat gun , stove, and blowtorch. I wound up cutting it. I think different manufacturers use different glues. TPS's are supposedly easy to pull, but some others use epoxies and can be a real PITA.

TPS apparantly is pretty easy. I pulled the blade outta my Frolov pro XN10 without too much difficulty. Some people say the XX ops isn't too hard but i haven't tried that myself ihad a 1100 which i think is the same stick and i could not pull that blade out.

[jasper 0]

i did it with vapor xx that i found that was broken in half and now i use the blade i pulled out, favorite blade i've ever used

[Hoquyguy 0]

I've cut a bunch of OPS, and the only real way to tell is to start cutting a little at a time. I start at the fuse point, and use a chop saw (mitre saw for you purists) to cut a 1/4 inch at a time. I think the average is about 1 to 1 1/2 inches up from the fuse point until you hit empty shaft. Until then, the shaft will be filled with a hard grey foam. As you get closer to the blade insert, you'll see the foam give way to the end cap, and maybe some pieces of the left over glue. In any case, once you cut the shaft at the right spot, I always put a layer of regular stick tape on the blade: up the hosel over the top and down to the bottom of the hosel on the other side. Then hot glue it in like normal. The tape fills in any gaps and keeps the blade from "rattling".

The only stick that I couldn't use was a Vapor XXX. I don't know if it was a mistake, but there was a big wad of composite filling one of the inside corners of the shaft, going all the way end to end. Rather than file it down I just tossed it. Not worth the effort.

[greech 4]

The only stick that I couldn't use was a Vapor XXX. I don't know if it was a mistake, but there was a big wad of composite filling one of the inside corners of the shaft, going all the way end to end. Rather than file it down I just tossed it. Not worth the effort.

You can't cut a Vapor XXX because it is a 'true' one piece stick. Sticks like the xn10 and Vapor XX are 'fused' one pieces and are a tapered shaft and blade bonded together. A stick like the Vapor XXX or Easton Stealth are made as one piece and cannot be used as a shaft unless you flip the shaft and use a standard blade.

[2-Keys 1]

you could always heat and pull..

Just takes a vice, a heat gun and some muscles..

I also found hitting it with a rubber mallot while pulling helps :)

i tryed that but it didnt work... i probably didnt heat it enough tho. can u heat up a TPS response plus and pull the blade out?

[Hooah4 12]

you could always heat and pull..

Just takes a vice, a heat gun and some muscles..

I also found hitting it with a rubber mallot while pulling helps :)

i tryed that but it didnt work... i probably didnt heat it enough tho. can u heat up a TPS response plus and pull the blade out?

Yes. You have to get it real hot though. Did it with my Tambellini pro stock. took about a half hour.

[Ogie 0]

I tried this with a Synergy ST and was unsuccessful. The shaft started to splinter becasue of the heat before any of the blade moved. The TPS, though, is very easy.

[nazzy19 0]

You can't cut a Vapor XXX because it is a 'true' one piece stick. Sticks like the xn10 and Vapor XX are 'fused' one pieces and are a tapered shaft and blade bonded together. A stick like the Vapor XXX or Easton Stealth are made as one piece and cannot be used as a shaft unless you flip the shaft and use a standard blade.

My Stealthesis is one of my favorite sticks. It can be made into a shaft; trust me.

[Buzz_LightBeer 974]

Is the SL retail? if it is, cut through the "I" in "PATENT PENDING" and you wont need to do any chiseling

[sniper44 0]

one thing that worked on my triflex was to take a long skiny piece of wood, stick it down the shaft and mark the wood where it came out of the shaft. i then transfered the mark to the end of the hosel area and cut. this way gets you right to the end of the hard foam so you may still need to trim a bit more of to fit in a blade

[DamnLocust 0]

You can't cut a Vapor XXX because it is a 'true' one piece stick. Sticks like the xn10 and Vapor XX are 'fused' one pieces and are a tapered shaft and blade bonded together. A stick like the Vapor XXX or Easton Stealth are made as one piece and cannot be used as a shaft unless you flip the shaft and use a standard blade.

sorry to sidetrack, but I haven't read or seen anywhere anything about the stealth being a true one piece (nor have I seen evidence to the contrary). I always assumed it was a fused combo, and that Easton does not make a true one piece. Does anyone know for sure?

[jon93 0]

You can't cut a Vapor XXX because it is a 'true' one piece stick. Sticks like the xn10 and Vapor XX are 'fused' one pieces and are a tapered shaft and blade bonded together. A stick like the Vapor XXX or Easton Stealth are made as one piece and cannot be used as a shaft unless you flip the shaft and use a standard blade.

sorry to sidetrack, but I haven't read or seen anywhere anything about the stealth being a true one piece (nor have I seen evidence to the contrary). I always assumed it was a fused combo, and that Easton does not make a true one piece. Does anyone know for sure?

it fused

you can see the fuse point on them easily