Tapered blade in broken XN10

[DangleSpud 0]

I had broke the blade in my OPS XN10, and was wondering if this one can be cut down to accomidate a tapered blade like many of the other OPS's. Where should I cut? Thanks.

[redwater_12 0]

Usually on the XN10, you can just heat up the blade at the hosel and pull it right out just like a shaft/blade combo. but if not, cut near the fusepoint, it should be visible, and chisel out the foam and whatever else is inside and it should fit a tapered blade no problem.

[DangleSpud 0]

Thanks for the quick info and response. I'm at work, but look forward to using one of my favorite sticks again

[DEATHTRON 19]

Sand around the fuse point, heat, then pull the blade. I did it with mine...and at first it seemed like the blade wouldnt come out...then I took a knife and traced around the fuse point and it eventually came out. Dont cut the blade off and then try to chissel anything out...it can be heated and pulled.

Zach

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

Sand around the fuse point, heat, then pull the blade. I did it with mine...and at first it seemed like the blade wouldnt come out...then I took a knife and traced around the fuse point and it eventually came out. Dont cut the blade off and then try to chissel anything out...it can be heated and pulled.

Zach

He's exactly right. No need to cut. At most you might have to use a pocket knife to break the plastic wrap-like skin over the fuse point (they fill the crack of the fuse point in with some sort of putty/epoxy like substance and cover that with either a thick paint or some sort of plastic skin near like decal).

Typically if you have been using the XN10 for a while you should be able to see about where the fuse point is (it likely is showing signs of cracking or the paint being a bit funny where everything around it is flawless).

I never even had to sand. Just heat and pull. Like Zach said, however, at first it might not seem like it's going to come out, but it will. They use a different kind of glue, apparently (either that or it takes longer to heat through the shaft wall) but it will come out nicely. Makes way more sense than cutting.

[Greerski17 0]

Sorry to kind of high-jack this thread, but when I pulled the blade out of my Pro Stock XN10 the hosel of the blade had "SUNDIN" etched in it. Is this just a blade pattern, or was my XN10 intended for Sundin? Just curious....

[PH_Hockey2 4]

Sorry to kind of high-jack this thread, but when I pulled the blade out of my Pro Stock XN10 the hosel of the blade had "SUNDIN" etched in it. Is this just a blade pattern, or was my XN10 intended for Sundin? Just curious....

Most likely it was intended for Sundin to use.

[DangleSpud 0]

Well, I've heated this damn stick up now about 4 different times and had various large friends of mine yank me around kinda how you do with a small dog and a chew toy but to no avail. I did find the seem and removed the glue/putty filling. Any tricks any of you care to share before I go caveman on it? Thanks again.

[DEATHTRON 19]

Keep heating it? I tell you....my brother and I went at it for every trying to heat it up over my stove...forever...and we barely got it to budge.

The next day we went to work and used the heat gun there....I finally got it out by standing on the blade with one foot and pulling with the my arms...it finally came out but sure as hell didnt want to. You should be heating it a shit'ton...not like a normal stick, but not so much that you start burning the stick itself. I want to say I spent 10 minutes really heating it up before the blade finally pulled....and its still in one piece.

Zach

[DamnLocust 0]

A couple of friends did a heat n pull with an old bauer triflex and did something that should help. they sat on the floor with their feet against eachother and used their legs to generate leverage against the stick as they pulled. they still had to heat it up like no tomorrow.

[DangleSpud 0]

Thanks for the leg idea, that might be the trick. Thank you to everyone for your insight.

[Razr 2]

Take a Heat gun and hold it about 3-4 inches from the shaft, on the HIGH setting and hold it on each corner for a about 1 min 1/2- 2 min each (2min x 4 sides= 8minutes of heating) and then TUG on that SOB, it will come out. If not I may have an XN10 R2 Shaft I could sell you.

[fedorov#91 0]

This work with pro stock dolomites? Just curious as ive already cut mine.

[nazzy19 0]

If all else fails and you do cut it....i used a corkscrew thingy with those arms on the side to help yank it out and it came out perfectly.

[topshelf11 0]

I just broke the blade on my XN10 last night, so when I got home I heated it up, then put the hosel in my bench vice and pulled. Nothing. I kept the heat gun on it, while pulling the shaft, and bingo! the blade slid out.

Much easier than cutting and trying to get the filler out. Now I just need a blade for it.

[tml67 0]

I bought a XN10 shaft over eBay. The blade was cut off already, but it looks like it was cut below the fuse point.

I'm trying to pull out the blade. How long will the shaft be after pulling out the blade?..so I can gauge the area to point my heat gun. It was a retail Nash stick btw.

Thanks in advance.