removing blade from OPS

[earth4x 0]

Hi!

the blade on my SL broke and I tried to remove it from the shaft to replace it with a Dolomite blade. I looked at it and saw the fuse point at the bottom and I cut right there. Problem is, there is some kind of excess material inside the stick and I won't be able to insert the blade. Do I need to remove that excess material or keep cutting until there's none left?

thanks

[DCott 0]

That is the tenon from the fused blade. it is a hollow tenon, so all that's left after you cut is the material around the inside of the shaft. I've heard you can chip it out, but I'm not too sure how well that works.

Even if you get it all out of there, the blade may or may not fit, I don't know how much taper there is, so you still may need to cut higher. there are more threads on this if you need more info.

[Spreedizzle 1]

You can try and pre-drill a small hole in the middle of the tenon, and insert a long wood screw. Heat up the shaft around the tenon and clamp onto the screw head with a pair of vise clamps and pull while heating. Something like this is about the only way that you will be able to pull out the tenon.

[earth4x 0]

I added those 2 pics to show you how I cut it.. I didn't heat it up.. I just cut it. Do you think the blade will fit after I'm done removing this blackish glue?

[DEATHTRON 19]

Look very closely. You will be able to see the wall of the shaft, then a faint line, followed by the tennon (the part of the blade that goes into the shaft). Think of a normal blade and shaft, now imagine if you just cut off the part of the blade that is normally exposed, the part that is left is still in the shaft.

On your stick, you have 2 options.

1. Keep cutting, you will be able to fit a tapered blade in, but chances are it will be Loose, as well as having hacked off a good portion of the taper.

2. Chisel out the tennon....I tried it once on a buddies stick...ended up spliting the shaft wall. Some other on here have had success and you just need to search to find out who and ask them to give you a detailed explantion on how to do it.

Zach

[Equipment Guru 0]

imo, this is the best for separating TPS, or any fused ops. I was told how to do this by the Flyers equip. manager, I tried it on a customers stick the next day and it worked like a charm.

For an SL,,,(I have done this with older synergy's and TPS's as well)

if you look closely at the area where the blade is fused to the stick, you can see a faint line, especially if the stick is well used.

Take a razor blade and trace that line lightly

Take a very fine saw and trace over that line with enough pressure to create a cut on all four sides about as deep as you think the shafts sidewalls are thick.

Then take an industrial heat gun, pref with a high setting, and heat the stick as though it were a 2 piece tapered shaft and blade but keep the heat on the fused area until the graphics on the very tip of the stick are burt off or melting.

Place the blade/blade end in a table vise, and pull as hard as you can on the shaft.

THe blade should separate exactly like a 2 piece stick, but you are heating and burning off the resin binders in the fused part so you may have to heat it for a while.

*note for Original poster:

I have removed the inside tenon from a OPS by actually taking an older Easton Aluminum JR sized shaft, heating up the tip of the broken or cut composite stick, then tapping the JR aluminium shaft into the broken end of the composite shaft.

It pushed the "inner tenon" down into the shaft and at that point, I could put in a short hosel blade.

Hope that helps

[DEATHTRON 19]

While I will believe that you can just heat and pull on TPS (I did this earlier tonight to 3 sticks), I am somewhat skeptical that you can do it to an easton. The rebar trick that CThockey originally suggested maybe will work. I think the original poster would be better off trying to chisel out the hosel, or, if he decided to not do that, use the rebar (or aluminum shaft technique), but dont try to heat it and pull it out, highly doubting it will happen (in my personal experience it never has worked on an Easton for me) .

Zach

[earth4x 0]

Well I just tried to chisel out the inside of the broken blade just to test to see if it works and it does.. takes a long time to do thought.

Maybe heating up the shaft on the tip will make it easier to remove the tenon?

[DEATHTRON 19]

I doubt that highly, but if youre going that route, try to rebar method. Doesnt have to be rebar, could be an aluminim jr. shaft or something else with similar rigidity. Heat where the tennon is, then when its ready, insert rebar (or other object) into opposite end of shaft, and slam against ground. Do this in your garage or something.

If I were you, I would just keep chiseling, its safer that way.

Zach

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

The easiest approach is likely to use a drill and auger it out. Then, cut back until you hit pay-dirt fit wise on the tapered shaft.

[TomMc#4 0]

imo, this is the best for separating TPS, or any fused ops. I was told how to do this by the Flyers equip. manager, I tried it on a customers stick the next day and it worked like a charm.

For an SL,,,(I have done this with older synergy's and TPS's as well)

if you look closely at the area where the blade is fused to the stick, you can see a faint line, especially if the stick is well used.

Take a razor blade and trace that line lightly

Take a very fine saw and trace over that line with enough pressure to create a cut on all four sides about as deep as you think the shafts sidewalls are thick.

Then take an industrial heat gun, pref with a high setting, and heat the stick as though it were a 2 piece tapered shaft and blade but keep the heat on the fused area until the graphics on the very tip of the stick are burt off or melting.

Place the blade/blade end in a table vise, and pull as hard as you can on the shaft.

THe blade should separate exactly like a 2 piece stick, but you are heating and burning off the resin binders in the fused part so you may have to heat it for a while.

i tried this with one of my sl's i broke the other week and it didnt work. i definately cut through enough but the heat just destroyed the fuse area, it went to mush and still wudnt come out. if it had come out i very much doubt the durability of the taper would have been decent after the amount of heat that was applied. i would advise people if they are going to try this is to go for the rebar or chisel methods over this one

[trevor13478 1]

just flip it and put a standard blade in the other end, eastons are an absolute bitch to convert to tapered shaft.

[CTHockey 2]

Ive experiemented with plenty of sticks and the hardest ones to do are eastons because of their epoxy bonding compound which is almost impossible to sepertate from the shaft and blade. The easiest by far is Warrior Dolomites which is where i came up with the rebar trick which has yet to fail me yet on over 15 sticks. I've tried the rebar on a SL after heating it up for a good ten minutes or so and it still didnt work. Easton does a good job of fusing their sticks together unlike some companies.

[ramensandwich 1]

i put a tapered in an ST. you need to cut about an inch higher, at the second to last "parentheses looking thing". worked fine for me.

[habsfan87 0]

Ive been able to chip away and pull out the tenon in old synergies before, like Guru said i kinda traced out the faint line with an exacto knife. Id say if theres anyone else with a cut SL just cut a bit lower from where they cut theirs cut and work from there

[TomMc#4 0]

just flip it and put a standard blade in the other end, eastons are an absolute bitch to convert to tapered shaft.

yeah thats what i did. put an st blade in, had to put an 8" extension in the other end after whittling it to fit the taper tho. weirdly i really like it and find i have good feel and a nice whippy shot, funny how the world works.