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rubberduckie

Broken OPS to a 2-piece

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I don't really trust my LHS for doing the job, plus I want to try doing it myself. I have a broken XXV OPS that broke essentially on the fuse point. ( right in the middle of the O in Vapor) I want to put a tapered blade in it, but how do I know where to cut? I figure I will have to see how it would fit every couple of mm's. Is there any suggestions on how to do this?

I am thinking just taking a dremel and sanding my way up the shaft. I also heard you shouldn't use power saws on composites, and should only use manual saws, which straight cutting leaves something to be desired in my case.

I might post some pictures, as sort of tutorial if I have time tomorrow to do this.

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I'll let someone else tell you about the search function, but to answer your question your best bet is to cut little by little with a hacksaw, don't see why a dremel disc couldnt do the job either.

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I believe the XXV is as fused OPS, but could be mistaken. Line up a tapered blade to the blade of the stick (if you've still got it) and cut where the hosel of the tapered blade ends. Carefully chisel the blade tenon out of the shaft, taking care of the joint where the shaft/blade tenon meet. It'll take a good hour or two to get it all cleaned out, but it's worth the effort so that you don't lose any length and don't have to use tape on blades to fit them snugly.

I've used a dremel a number of times, both for cutting sticks to length and for converting broken OPS to shafts. Whether you use a dremel or a hacksaw, uneven cuts can be fixed with a bit of elbow grease and some sandpaper. (120 grit should work just fine.)

and as the previous poster mentioned, there are a lot of topics on this, as found via the search function. Example: I searched for "cutting OPS" There hsould be a bit of info in there to help you get started.

Even better would be to do a domain search via google.

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There's also the old trick of heating up the fuse-point, then jamming a length of rebar or something similar down the shaft to knock the blade out.

I don't know if this works all the time, but some people seem to swear by it.

I'm about to try it myself with an RM9.

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There's also the old trick of heating up the fuse-point, then jamming a length of rebar or something similar down the shaft to knock the blade out.

I don't know if this works all the time, but some people seem to swear by it.

I'm about to try it myself with an RM9.

that does not work all the time. EX. you can do it to dolos, but not eastons. It all depends what is used to "fuse" the shaft and blade.

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Ah, gotcha.

So if they happened to use a glue or epoxy that melts at heat-gun temperatures, the rebar trick works, but otherwise you're hosed.

I know Eastons and the Aldilla Missions can't be popped out; Innos and Warriors can... what else?

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There's also the old trick of heating up the fuse-point, then jamming a length of rebar or something similar down the shaft to knock the blade out.

I don't know if this works all the time, but some people seem to swear by it.

I'm about to try it myself with an RM9.

I just bought a thick wooden dowel just for that.... A used pro stock Mission I bought from Drewhunz has a perfect line along the bottom (SO do the 2 retail Missions I bought, but not as highly visible), so I suspect when it's time, it may be easy to dissect into a 2 pc. I will follow up with results. Now I just need to scour the Earth for Mission V-Hex blades in my pattern.

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I haven't yet got to try it (lent it to a friend, blade was too pooched for my liking) but I always thought a 7k could be possible to do it, there was a line on mine all the way around that was pretty visible. makes sense as they did the tapered shaft and blade.

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There's also the old trick of heating up the fuse-point, then jamming a length of rebar or something similar down the shaft to knock the blade out.

I don't know if this works all the time, but some people seem to swear by it.

I'm about to try it myself with an RM9.

RM9's are a piece of cake

use the rebar method

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The fuse point is in the broken blade. It is about a centimeter down from the break. So I don't have to do that. I guess I will just try sanding down the break and sticking the blade in straight away first.

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has anyone ever taken the blade of of a rbk 9k 0? Broke mine last night and the inside looks like it has almost 2 pieces of fiber board running down the shaft walls?

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Ok i have searched and have researched about cutting ops now and, i think its time time cut my ops (7k sickick) into a taper shaft because the blade feels really dead and my shots aren't popping as much... I cant find it on the sickick but, ill post a pic soon. Anyone knows which way is the easiest to get the blade out while still maintaining the taper point?

Pics:

http://img528.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image003bi8.jpg

http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image004aa6.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image006zi7.jpg

thanks, phil

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anyone?。。

You usually have to wait more than 45 minutes for an answer.

What you could do is cut it bit by bit until you find a perfect fit, or you just just turn it into a standard by flipping it if you don't wanna do that.

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the thing is I dont want anything that will mess up my game. I just want the blade out and put a new one in so i can get that pop feeling. But, i just dont know how to do it and dont want to try as a 15 year old and mess it up when im still leeching from my parents money.

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the thing is I dont want anything that will mess up my game. I just want the blade out and put a new one in so i can get that pop feeling. But, i just dont know how to do it and dont want to try as a 15 year old and mess it up when im still leeching from my parents money.

So cut little by little until thhe blade fits right.

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I just heated my xn10s. They used epoxy, didnt melt to well. What I did is stuck the blade in a vice neer the the fuse point and tightened it until it broke the fuse point. Then i turned it over did it again and it slid right out no cutting. Just like a new shaft perfectly staight. this should work on any ops. good luck.

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