Fluttering wrist/snap shots

[msander 0]

This might belong in the general hockey discussions, but it does involve equipment, so I thought I would place it here.

I've been using Iginla and Heatley curves for a while, and recently I decided to try a Sakic because I wanted to try a bit larger and more open curve.

However, after switching over I've found that my wrist shots and my snap shots even more so are fluttering. They're still coming off with a decent amount of zip, and accuracy is pretty good, but I'm wondering if anyone could tell me why they think this is happening now and what I could do/work on/focus on doing (don't say the curve please) to fix it.

Thanks.

[shifter 0]

practice the technique...( rolling your wrists)

[msander 0]

It was never a problem with the previous curve. My wrist shots are still ok, and my technique with them is pretty good. I never really learned the proper way to shoot a snap shot, I just sort of picked it up over the years. Maybe the new curve is illustrating my lack of form? haha

Any more suggestions, or tips/hints for better snap shots specifically. As I said, wrist shots are pretty good.

[bighar21 0]

if you you feel that you have a better shot with iggy/heater curves then just switch back, no point adjusting to a new curve when the one you had was the one for you

[msander 0]

This might belong in the general hockey discussions, but it does involve equipment, so I thought I would place it here.

I've been using Iginla and Heatley curves for a while, and recently I decided to try a Sakic because I wanted to try a bit larger and more open curve.

However, after switching over I've found that my wrist shots and my snap shots even more so are fluttering. They're still coming off with a decent amount of zip, and accuracy is pretty good, but I'm wondering if anyone could tell me why they think this is happening now and what I could do/work on/focus on doing (don't say the curve please) to fix it.

Thanks.

I wasn't totally happy with the Iggy/Heater curve, because although snap shots were pretty good, I wasn't getting the puck up as quickly as I would have liked, and I was having trouble putting slap shots in the top of the net when I wanted. This curve has helped with those problems, I'm just trying to get rid of this annoying flutter. So again, suggestions please, but not "just change back to the old curve".

[Archangel#16 1]

practice the technique...( rolling your wrists)

Its all about technique like shifter said. Many people will tell you to practice the technique until you get the desired effect instead of changing curves. So I say to just practice different ways of shooting (wrist roll, hand placement, etc.) until you find one that stops the flutter without sacrificing accuracy or power.

[gxc999 7]

This might belong in the general hockey discussions, but it does involve equipment, so I thought I would place it here.

I've been using Iginla and Heatley curves for a while, and recently I decided to try a Sakic because I wanted to try a bit larger and more open curve.

However, after switching over I've found that my wrist shots and my snap shots even more so are fluttering. They're still coming off with a decent amount of zip, and accuracy is pretty good, but I'm wondering if anyone could tell me why they think this is happening now and what I could do/work on/focus on doing (don't say the curve please) to fix it.

Thanks.

Hi,

I've had this problem before. The funny thing is curves really make no differences, but LIE can make a huge difference. I think you just switched over from a 5 to a 6 lie. That's probably what's causing it. Lower lies are for skaters who are closer to the ground. I prefer a 6 lie since I'm more of a stand up skater and moderately tall, slightly over 5'11. Try another curve with the same lie you used before and I bet your problem is gone...

[msander 0]

I thought Heatley is a 5, and Iginla and Sakic are 5.5. I definitely prefer lower lies, but since I don't usually have this problem with the Iggy, then I doubt that the lie of the Sakic is the problem. Thanks for the idea though.

[DamnLocust 0]

sakic's got more rocker than the iggy/heater, and it's also a more open face and mid-toe as opposed to just a mid.

Roll the wrists, it should keep everything in check. Experiment with your form a bit until you find something that works for you.

[greatsave31 0]

for the snapper how close are you pulling the puck in before the quick release? I've found that in order to get the most out of my snapper I have to accentuate the pull in before letting the snapper go, and thus letting the natural flex of the stick work for the velocity. Of course i came across this when I went from a pro-stock Desjardin bauer 5000 (back in like 2000), to a CCM 1052 Sundin curve. (wow that was an awsome stick wasn't it? the ccm 1052 built like tanks!!!!

[Julio18 0]

I have been using the Sakic curve for close to a decade and I have never been able to get a nice saucer wrist shot - there is always a bit of flutter. However, the snap shot and slap shot I can get off are great, so I became accustomed to taking the the quick snapper all the time. It's Joe's way, I guess that explains a lot about the curve and the inability to get a flat wrist shot out of it.

The Sakic does allow you to get the puck up a lot faster due to the wedge at the tip - I think the wedge is what makes the fluttery wrist shots. I suggest working on your snap shot if you want to use that curve.

On a side not, I tested an Iginla curve the other day and it was fantastic. I have a bit of trouble keeping my shots down with the Sakic if I don't keep my wrists rolled over and the blade closed. I was able to drive mega hard shots and keep them down using Iginla's set up, nice wrist shots too - I think I might pick one up.

[D aka speck 0]

I have been using the Sakic curve for close to a decade and I have never been able to get a nice saucer wrist shot - there is always a bit of flutter. However, the snap shot and slap shot I can get off are great, so I became accustomed to taking the the quick snapper all the time. It's Joe's way, I guess that explains a lot about the curve and the inability to get a flat wrist shot out of it.

I have the opposite going on.

I can use a Sakic and get a flat wrister, but my slaps and snaps flutter.

I'm willing to wager that it's my technique.

[sinkhole84 0]

watch these and see if they help http://www.hockeyshot.com/articles.asp?id=156

[D aka speck 0]

VERY COOL! Thank You!

[gxc999 7]

I thought Heatley is a 5, and Iginla and Sakic are 5.5. I definitely prefer lower lies, but since I don't usually have this problem with the Iggy, then I doubt that the lie of the Sakic is the problem. Thanks for the idea though.

Whoops, the Sakic is a 5.5 after all. I was thinking of the Naslund, which is 6.

Anyway, try experimenting with how far you extend your hands, e.g. place the puck farther away from your body. This is something that's helped me before.

[Abbieshockey20 1]

Sakic is a 5.5 lie.

[baz5 0]

the great thing about the sakic curve is that the bottom of the blade is rockered. when the middle of the blade is touching the ice its a 5.5 but if the heal is touching i will be 6 and if toe is tucing it will be a 5.

this makes it good to pull moves and easy to shoot when at tight angles.

i have been using it for over1 year now and i feel snap and slap shots are good from it and when in close a good wrist shot to get it up high.

Baz5

[BramptonAssJag 0]

dude i had the same problem when i got a sakic. What i did was change my follow through. I looked at this pic and I watched how Kovalchuk followed through forward like that now my shot is a flutter free bullet with a sakic. Hope i helped

[gxc999 7]

dude i had the same problem when i got a sakic. What i did was change my follow through. I looked at this pic and I watched how Kovalchuk followed through forward like that now my shot is a flutter free bullet with a sakic. Hope i helped

Yeah, changing your follow through does help the change of curves and Sakic is apparently a very tricky curve (I thought it was relatively straight forward, hah!). The only problem is constantly changing your follow through, well I just don't think that can be good. Find the ideal curve/lie for you and stick with it. We're not pros, we don't have to be able to use all types of curves, and btw, some pros can't do that either!

[raygunpk 0]

Do you guys think the length of the stick has anything to do with it? Like if it's too long the snap will flutter because you're not getting proper follow through?

[gxc999 7]

Do you guys think the length of the stick has anything to do with it? Like if it's too long the snap will flutter because you're not getting proper follow through?

You're 100% right. I was using a stick almost up to my nose in skates, and was wondering why I was getting flutter 90% of shots. Using sticks up to my chin now and the problem has magically corrected itself.

[raygunpk 0]

Yes I'm using a longer stick now too, love the reach and everything though. It's a dilemma for sure!

[duch 0]

A longer stick gives you more reach and changes your shot slightly and a shorter stick will be better for stick handling especially in tight areas between players and near the boards and in the corners. I have that fluttering shot with a Sakic stick on my slappers but on my wrist shots I get the shot flat as a saucer and away very quickly. I've done some experimenting lately and found to get the shot away flat on both, I need a Nasland curve which is a 6 lye. A Forsberg curve seems to work for me as well but not quite as effectively.

[baz5 0]

Do you guys think the length of the stick has anything to do with it? Like if it's too long the snap will flutter because you're not getting proper follow through?

You're 100% right. I was using a stick almost up to my nose in skates, and was wondering why I was getting flutter 90% of shots. Using sticks up to my chin now and the problem has magically corrected itself.

yep if your sakic is above your nose you have no chance in controling shots, i cut mine at my chin without skates on, i play with bent knees i feel it also helps when skating, and stick hanling as well as shooting.

Baz5

[Scurvy 3]

What about using the proper flex?