Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

proliner

Help with skate grinding

Recommended Posts

I have just taught myself how to grind skates on a portable blademaster we have. I watched the blademaster dvd and some clips on youtube and just started having a go. It hasn't taken me too long to get good enough at it, unfortunately there is no one where I work who can help me improve as they are all just self taught also. I just have some questions for any veterans out there ;)

Should you grind in only one direction (ie forwards) or both forwards and backwards? - my feeling is just to grind in the forward motion as I move the skate from the right of the wheel to the left.

Which side should the skate be clamped, toe to the left or heel on the left? - I currently prefer toe on the left.

We have no cross grinder, and I find it hard to center the wheel on the blades when re-grinding my skates because I don't get a nice dot when I touch it to the stone. On brand new skates I do get the dots and its no problem. So with no cross grinder to hand are there any tips to help me with centering? - Instead of a dot I get a much wider mark as its contacting more of the blade due to the existing hollow.

Something that I cant work out is why, when I center up a skate perfectly, I change to the other boot and the centering is out. Of course I've moved things around, but I dont see how the clamp will have changed height, is it something to do with the steel not being completely straight?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1. Don't call it grinding, sounds like you're doing damage to them

2. One direction, otherwise you spend too much time on the toes and heels and turn the steel into a banana

3. Whatever direction makes you feel more comfortable

4. Is the steel level? If one side is higher than the other you need to level the steel before you sharpen it. Even if that means grinding (this is how it should be used) down the high side of the steel with the sharpening wheel

5. Each skate should be treated differently. It doesn't really matter what setting you used for the last skate, make sure they are correct for the one in your hands

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Should you grind in only one direction (ie forwards) or both forwards and backwards?

I've always done one direction only; from right to left. While I haven't tried going back-and-forth, I was warned not to do it...

Which side should the skate be clamped, toe to the left or heel on the left?

That changes from place to place I think, but I believe most people do toe-to-heel, like this:

skateSharpening640.jpg

So with no cross grinder to hand are there any tips to help me with centering? - Instead of a dot I get a much wider mark as its contacting more of the blade due to the existing hollow.

That's a tough one. When I started out, I had this tool to help make sure I was centered. More experienced sharpeners might have better suggestions to help you out here. Two things that may help...

-Starting with a freshly dressed wheel, look at the marking on the wheel after doing a few passes. That should at least indicate if you're in the right ballpark...

-After a few passes, hold up the skate to see how the edges look. With a little practice, you should be able to 'eyeball' whether or not the edges are even.

Something that I cant work out is why, when I center up a skate perfectly, I change to the other boot and the centering is out. Of course I've moved things around, but I dont see how the clamp will have changed height, is it something to do with the steel not being completely straight?

That's totally normal. Many skate blades are bent/crooked, so you often have to make slight adjustments from skate to skate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
-After a few passes, hold up the skate to see how the edges look. With a little practice, you should be able to 'eyeball' whether or not the edges are even.

While it was rather difficult, I managed to take a picture of what I was trying to say...

skates0102an7.jpg

w752.png

You can see that both edges are even.

(Or very close...the skate is not exactly at a 90 degree angle, but close enough)

I wish I had a deeper hollow on my skates, as it would be a little easier to see uneven edges, but whatever. :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That changes from place to place I think, but I believe most people do toe-to-heel, like this:

Isn't the guy/girl in that photo going from heel-to-toe, seeing as he is most likely going in the opposite direction that the blade is turning (as evidenced by where the sparks are)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That changes from place to place I think, but I believe most people do toe-to-heel, like this:

Isn't the guy/girl in that photo going from heel-to-toe, seeing as he is most likely going in the opposite direction that the blade is turning (as evidenced by where the sparks are)?

Not at all, there is no need to go against the rotation of the wheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That changes from place to place I think, but I believe most people do toe-to-heel, like this:

Isn't the guy/girl in that photo going from heel-to-toe, seeing as he is most likely going in the opposite direction that the blade is turning (as evidenced by where the sparks are)?

Not at all, there is no need to go against the rotation of the wheel.

Some people do go against the rotation of the wheel though. It takes away more of the blade faster, but if they get the job done, they get the job done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
We have no cross grinder, and I find it hard to center the wheel on the blades when re-grinding my skates because I don't get a nice dot when I touch it to the stone. On brand new skates I do get the dots and its no problem. So with no cross grinder to hand are there any tips to help me with centering? - Instead of a dot I get a much wider mark as its contacting more of the blade due to the existing hollow.

When doing your tap for the witness marks, instead of a dot, you'll get an hourglass type shape, you can tell which side is higher by the difference in the sizes of the hourglass. That'll get you close, but be sure to use a pro-square to fine tune from there to make sure it's truly level. Also if you check your level Before hand, you'll know if your high side is due to unlevel edges, or if you're off center.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That changes from place to place I think, but I believe most people do toe-to-heel, like this:

Isn't the guy/girl in that photo going from heel-to-toe, seeing as he is most likely going in the opposite direction that the blade is turning (as evidenced by where the sparks are)?

Not at all, there is no need to go against the rotation of the wheel.

Some people do go against the rotation of the wheel though. It takes away more of the blade faster, but if they get the job done, they get the job done.

Moving with the wheel you may have to do a couple extra passes but the blade doesnt get as hot.......A cool blade is a happy blade.

Also if you use a good new style holder from Blademaster or Blackstone with a level wehn doing skates there will be no need for witness marks as the skate is almost always at the same height.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...