Never paid attention to the curve I used. Now I'd like advice.

[andysly 1]

When I played nothing but pickup I would buy whatever blade was cheapest. Now that I am playing in a mens league I think it's time I started paying attention to how curves affect my game.

I am a left-handed stay at home dman who likes to take slappers from the point. I was using a TPS Response 1 piece with a Perry curve and most of my shots went high and to the left off the glass. When that broke a teammate lent me his CCM 10.0 catapult Ovechkin. Slapshots are much more controlled now though they're still not accurate. Wristers are great since I went from a 100 flex to an 85.

My ? is this. I am about to buy a CCM 10 shaft and a tapered blade. I'm leaning toward a Recchi pattern since it seems a bit more closed-faced. Hopefully, that would alleviate the high left shots.

Any advice from you experts out there?

[cougarscaptain87 12]

a more closed face will help you control the height of your shots, also consider the size of the curve becasue that influences the height of the standard shot from the stick, bigger = higher as a general rule. maybe try the vector 10 shaft, and grab a few wood blades. try em out in different curves obviously and you will beable to figure it out for yourself. people can say this is better then that but only you can decide what feels right.

[andysly 1]

Thanks. In looking at the Perry curve on the pattern chart it's listed as a slightly open face angle with a deep curve. I like thwe depth of the curve because it allows me to lift the puck out of danger from my zone. But, as I said earlier, the open face makes my slappers go high left.

The Recchi pattern is a neutral angle with a moderate curve depth. I might even lean toward the Thornton since it's closed and has a deep curve.

As you said, I can buy a couple different curves and experiment.

[cougarscaptain87 12]

you can also look into a zetterberg, which is just very moderate heel curve, with a neutral face. also look into lindros, a bigger mid curve, but still with a neutral face that will beable get the puck up a bit faster but still not wild becasue the face isnt open like a drury. drury is probally the most popular in the pros, and i love it but its definatly a harder curve to get used to, and if your just starting out i wouldnt try it right off the bat.

[andysly 1]

Well I went to my LHS last night and picked up the V10 shaft in 85 flex and a Thornton V10 blade. The curve looked only slightly more "dramatic" than than the Recchi until they actually installed it on the shaft. That's when I realized how different it is from anything I've used. I'm sure I'll get used to it after a couple of games. First chance to use it is on Tuesday night. I'll report back...

Quick question - The Vector V10 shaft and blade is a tapered setup - the first I've ever seen up close. I was shocked to see that where the shaft and the blade meet they are not flush. the tenon of the blade is offset by a small amount.

Is this normal?

[Rustpot 1]

Do you mean there is a gap or that the sizes don't match up?

The blade should fit all the way into the shaft until the tenon is completely inserted. If the blade got hung up on some unmetled glue or the shaft wasn't heated enough the fit may have gotten too snug and whoever did the installation got lazy.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y279/rust...ar/IMG_1094.jpg

The bottom 3 are two piece sticks. You can kinda see in the middle stick, the Montreal, the blade isn't in all the way. The shaft on that one widens to accept the blade, so I bottomed it out (that is a pro blade with a loooong tenon), your shaft should look like the Synergy, snug and the bottom of the shaft at the top of the hosel.

[andysly 1]

Thanks for the reply Rustpot.

No, the blade is fully inserted. But if you were to look at the joint from the side, you'd see a step down from the shaft to the blade. The edges of the 2 are not flush.

[flyerman 0]

Thanks for the reply Rustpot.

No, the blade is fully inserted. But if you were to look at the joint from the side, you'd see a step down from the shaft to the blade. The edges of the 2 are not flush.

I'd take it back and exchange it for another blade to make sure it is flush.

Also, be mindful about the lie change from the Perry and Ovechkin (5.5) to the Thorton (6). If you start wearing on the heel of the blade, try going to the Recchi (5.25 slight mid) or a Forsberg/Modano/Zetterburg (5 slight heel). Both of these will be lower than the other patterns you were using, though. Best thing to do since you now have a shaft is experiment with different wood blade patterns until you find one that you like best -- and you won't be out a lot of money.

[chippa13 1844]

Thanks for the reply Rustpot.

No, the blade is fully inserted. But if you were to look at the joint from the side, you'd see a step down from the shaft to the blade. The edges of the 2 are not flush.

Nothing to worry about. As long as the blade is in there good then you are fine.

[Jarick 5]

How much of a step? For all shaft-blade combos, there will be a little visual gap, even though the blade and shaft are effective joined.

[andysly 1]

Here's a pic of the joint:

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4317/stickvc4.th.jpgstick

[Andoy 5]

It looks a little weird but as previously stated, nothing to worry about. If the tenon fits into the shaft well then it's all good.