how to do a ice to roller conversion

[k13 0]

Question: How well does the epoxy hold? I'm sure that I'm gonna have to fill my holes, and then drill into that area again. Just wondering if the epoxy is strong enough to stand it and still hang onto the boot. I'd hate to end up with a massive hole.

[fawn111 0]

Thanks so much for this.

Ive had a few pair of ice boots converted and always wondered why this was something that I was not doing myself.

Stopped by local home depot and they had all necessary hardware. Bought about 10 packs of 6/32 Tee nuts.

thanks again.....

One more thing about epoxy.....

If u need to locate a Tee nut and the only place it can go is where you ahve filled with Epoxy.... wlll the area be sturdy enough to take the Tee nut and screw? Or will it crack and fail

thanks in advance

[zfyfe 0]

if the hole lines up then you dont have to fil it in with epoxy. but i found that you need to let it really dry. however it still sometimes will all drill out even if you dont want it to but i havent had any trouble with mine

[k13 0]

I did my remount today. What a pain. Epoxy only helps to drill new holes, doesn't really do much for reinforcement.

My only advice is, measure twice, drill once. I have one skate that is ever so slightly mounted further forward than the other now.

Also, the Tnuts I got were pretty big in terms of the base, so I had to dremel off a bit for the heel, because the hole was so close to the side of the boot.

[fawn111 0]

Was thinking about this over the weekend....

Could you insert plastic rods into the old holes? They must make plastic rods out of something close to the same material that the base of the skate is manufactured from... just coat it in epoxy and stick it in the hole.... I am thinking this would help reinforce the area as well as providing a strengthened base to drill new holes.

[fatwabbit 93]

Putting the plastic plugs wont help much.

Epoxy can be used to strengthen the hole, and then drilled once it has set.

[fawn111 0]

Would you recommend using aluminum Socket cap screws instead of stainless steel to mount frames?

Was looking online and you can get aluminum screws, even titanium screws... lots of places sell them.

Also, in the Srprung thread they recommend to use 8/32 Tnuts and screws... jsut wondering if the heavier screw is necessary o

[zfyfe 0]

i was told that the aluminum wouldnt hold up thats why i went with stainless and as far as the size of the screw goes you can use 8/32 if you wanted to but 6/32 works just fine too thats what i used and they have held up fine for me

[k13 0]

I was able to shear the heads off two 8/32 stainless screws trying to pull the t-nuts down, so definately don't go with aluminum.

[zfyfe 0]

i used hex screws they worked a lot better then regular screws

[fawn111 0]

I am on my first pair of conversions.... Bauer 4000s with a Mission Vanguard.....Going real well except for a few snags.....

K here's a question..... how do u get the T nuts into the holes all the way at the front of the toe.....

After strugling mightily for a while i came up with this solution.... reverse a piece of tape around my index finger (Sticky side out) and then fix the T nut at the very tip of my finger... the reversed tape is so it will stick to your finger when trying to find the hole. Then I took a hole punch and inserted it from the bottom of the boot. The idea is to feel around for the tip of the hole punch with the Tnutted Finger.... ideally you would want to get it through the opening of the Tnut and that way you can then press it down into the hole. But even this was a lot of trouble

Make any sense? is there a simpler way?

Thanks in advance

Drew

[fatwabbit 93]

Without the chassis in place, Put a longer screw thru the hole in front, then locate the tnuts on top of the screw. turn the screw so that the tnut starts to get pulled down into the hole. Once the tnut is located in the hole, do the other ones near the toe cap. Once you have done the front 4 holes, you can unscrew one by one and mount the chassis.

[zfyfe 0]

Without the chassis in place, Put a longer screw thru the hole in front, then locate the tnuts on top of the screw. turn the screw so that the tnut starts to get pulled down into the hole. Once the tnut is located in the hole, do the other ones near the toe cap. Once you have done the front 4 holes, you can unscrew one by one and mount the chassis.

thats the best/ easiest way to do it

[Larry54 243]

i used hex screws they worked a lot better then regular screws

I would use truss head screws if you can find them. They have bigger diameter heads.

[zfyfe 0]

any would work all you really need to do is take your time screwing them in

[k13 0]

i used hex screws they worked a lot better then regular screws

I would use truss head screws if you can find them. They have bigger diameter heads.

Depending on the chassis, Truss heads won't fit on the heel.

edit: Question - did you guys use loctite on the screws?

[zfyfe 0]

i didnt and havent had any problems

[murphtehsmurf 0]

2.Next you are going to want to take a pair of needle nose pliers and hold a punch with them, I used a 3/32 punch

I used a 3/32 punch and broke the tip off of it. I used a 1/8" and it worked a lot better, it was much stronger even though it is not a huge change in size

[fatwabbit 93]

I just did a mount last weekend, and started off using some long-ish nails that started to bend after about 3-4 hits.

I then used a screwdriver (the ones that come in those cheap kits for fixing spectacles) and it worked out sweet...

[k13 0]

When I did my mount, i used a chisel and just chiseled the heads off. The copper heads sheered off easily, and I'd just tap the rest out, whereas the other rivets would pull out of the boot.

[zfyfe 0]

2.Next you are going to want to take a pair of needle nose pliers and hold a punch with them, I used a 3/32 punch

I used a 3/32 punch and broke the tip off of it. I used a 1/8" and it worked a lot better, it was much stronger even though it is not a huge change in size

i did the samething works a lot better

[McLuvin09 0]

why dont you use Graf RMS screws they are the easiest to mount with and strongest. and to get them mounted in the toe cap use a pair of needlenose and a long screw to pull the holder through the bottom of the skate bed then just remove the longer screw and replace it with the shorter one when u mount the chassis. thats how i did my 705's with sprung chassis. the job took about 1/2 an hour. you can buy the graf rms screws at any GOOD LHS. saves alot of headaches.

[ringer 0]

quick question for the guys who have mounted their own skates:

i have mounted two sets of chassis on two different boots, and i've used regular rivets (i work at a hockey store) on both. except for the heel on my 7k's i used t-nuts-and on my tacks i used copper rivets.

i've used my tacks only a few times and they feel alot better than my 7ks. now there are different chassis on each (tuuk one-up on the 7k's, and red star eframe on the tacks), and i was just wondering what is stronger, the tnuts or the copper rivets? hopefully i find out if the copper will hold out before i head to florida for the torhs tourney at the end of june

[fawn111 0]

I'm referencing other posts that I have read as well as my own limited experience: Tnuts are rock solid. I have two frames that I mounted and have skated on with reckless abandon and have not had a problem.

If you have two pieces that have a system of retention (Screw threads) locking them together, then you have a very solid method of attachment.

Also, if you have a Tnut loosen, then all you have to do is give it a few quick twists of a screwdriver and you are back in business. IF rivet fails then you need to go to the LHS for a fix.

And keep in mind that GRAF uses a system similiar to Tnuts.

http://www.hockeyguys.com/index.asp?PageAc...&ProdID=270

[titand19 0]

Anyone who has to cut a nut or a bolt down, should consider spending a few bucks for a tap and die of that size and thread to ensure everything will fit perfectly.