Home Repairs

[RadioGaGa 162]

There is a dedicated fuse to the sove. and I have 100 Amp service. I don't doubt that I have proper infrasctructure to do the install....just what I thought was going to be an easy DIY - disconnect, reconnect project is probably beyond my (or any one I know) ability and will need a professional....and will cost a professional fee!

[wrangler 157]

Sounds like old wiring, if it uses fuses. And a 220V stove, if that's what you got, is generally wired with two breakers, in my experience. If you're satisfied that your service (100 amp is one aspect) is adequate to your needs, that's one good thing. Estimates will tell you if you really want to continue with the project.

[Chadd 916]

I'm fortunate that one of the guys on my team is an electrician. It's also one of the reasons I don't charge the guys on the team for skate sharpening, it's nice to have some favors built up.

You can probably do most of the work yourself and just have the electrician make the connections. Just make sure that you do everything to current code. One of the guys at work fixed up a house and didn't do the electrical properly, then had to rip it all out and replace it when the inspector caught him trying to cut corners.

[wrangler 157]

This sounds a bit involved for someone inexperienced, as wires have to be run to the service panel, and there may be new fuses or breakers required, even if the house service is adequate. I'm assuming that the new stove is 220, due to the wires mentioned, and that the old stove is not, due to the mention of one fuse. I would not recommend this job to a rookie.

[RadioGaGa 162]

This sounds a bit involved for someone inexperienced, as wires have to be run to the service panel, and there may be new fuses or breakers required, even if the house service is adequate. I'm assuming that the new stove is 220, due to the wires mentioned, and that the old stove is not, due to the mention of one fuse. I would not recommend this job to a rookie.

Sorry no...the old stove is on a double pull out fuse...not the single screw in kind. Same kind as the dryer (which was not original to the house).

Got an Electrician coming by Friday to give me an idea of what it will cost to re-run this correctly!

[wrangler 157]

OK, that's two fuses (though you did say "fuse"), which indicates 220V. If both stoves are 220V and are rated for the same current, I don't see why you wouldn't be OK with the current fusing and wiring. If that's the case, I don't know what your 3 vs. 4 wire situation would be, unless it doesn't have a dedicated ground wire. A normal 220V circuit would have two hot wires, a neutral, and possibly a ground, depending on the setup. If you've got a manual (or labels) for the new stove, compare it to the existing fuse ratings, for starters.

[RadioGaGa 162]

I appear to have dodged a bullet. Electrician said he can wire using the existing wiring. No need to re-run anything...and apparently all the grounding is in place to do what I initially planned to do. But, I'm going to wait and let him do it. For $30....might as well let him play with the 220V.

He also said I could easily switch the house to breakers...for about $500. I just don't have it right now to do it....but I know who to call when I do!

[wrangler 157]

There you go.

[Goonsquad 209]

for about $500. I just don't have it right now to do it....but I know who to call when I do!

Awesome!

Plan to do Hardwood floors in a couple of rooms in the house.. I've also started to brainstorm about built in bookshelves and cabinets in the Family room and library / Den.. another flooring project on that same level is to tear up the hardwoods from the front door to the kitchen (main hallway if you want to call it that) and replace it with slate tile or some simliar type of tile to stand up to pet nails. The Dogs tend to run down the stairs and make harpins to the kitchen. The thought is that the slate tile would give them a better grip and it'll help keep their claws short.

Any thoughts on the tiling project?

[RadioGaGa 162]

Slate tile can be very pourus, no? If you have the potential of lots of wet traffic in the winter in and out...it might not be the best surface for at the front door. There is a sealer you can use...and the pourousness (?) may differ depending on what type of slate you use...but it is worth considering.

[DLK 0]

Slate certainly can be fairly porous, but a good penetrating sealer can make that a fairly minor problem. Brazilian and Vermont slate are both typically fairly dense slates...softer slates (often from China or India) will flake and scratch much more easily and need more sealing. Honed slate is nearly flat and even; depending on how good your dogs are about watching their footing on rough surfaces, that may be a wise choice. The dogs will definitely scratch it...some slates do show scratches very obviously.

If that's a concern for you, porcelain tile would be my suggestion. Most non-porcelain ceramic tiles are heavily glazed and will probably be too slippery for the dogs.

Epoxy-based grout is a good choice with dogs...whatever material you use, you do NOT want urine getting under the tile.

[Goonsquad 209]

They are generally good with their footing.. The edges of some of the hardwood planks are scatched up to the point there is a slight rut has developed in the entry way.

GaGa and DLK brings up a good point about sealing it. I'll check out the porcelin tiles. THANKS GUYS!

[RadioGaGa 162]

Just replacing some mismatched...(and very old) switches and faceplates around the house. I swear to God, one of these switches is in a wall box that looks like it might be ceramic.

Holy shit, this house is old!

Upon a second look...there is a metal box in there....but damn, this is still old hardware!

[ktang 34]

Disassembled the vacuum cleaner to clean out the inside of the casing, the motor, and the fan. It's all drying out now, so hopefully it will still work in a few days without the high-pitched whining sound.

[Chadd 916]

Just replacing some mismatched...(and very old) switches and faceplates around the house. I swear to God, one of these switches is in a wall box that looks like it might be ceramic.

Holy shit, this house is old!

Upon a second look...there is a metal box in there....but damn, this is still old hardware!

When I was a kid my parents refurbed an old house that they got for next to nothing as part of an urban renewal project and I distinctly recall finding newspaper used for insulation. One of the papers had a few stories about the ongoing war the country was involved in. The civil war.

[RadioGaGa 162]

...Just when you think there is a least one thing you won't have to worry about fixing for a while...it breaks! The 1/8" metal wire that held together the counterweight system for my garage door snapped yesterday! (Thank good I was standing near it when it went).

Now, I have to figure out how long the wire needs to be to have the weight hang in the right spot....and where to connect old wire to new...so that it all stays clear of the pulleys and has full range of motion. Also....do I repair the bucket...or find a new way to suspend the 85 pounds that made this thing work. Hmmmm. Gotta love a challenge.

[wrangler 157]

A bucket, huh?

[ktang 34]

If insurance would pay for it without increasing your premiums, you could consider changing over to a wound-spring system. But that needs a professional for installation.

[RadioGaGa 162]

A bucket, huh?

LOL....oh yeah. It's old school. Actually in hind sight...I'm amazed this is something I thought I wouldn't have to fix. It's been there for close to 40 years. Had to go eventually.

ktang....not something insurance would ever cover.

[RadioGaGa 162]

Got it all put back together last night...and it held...and worked...but, I've got the wire too long...so the weight hits the ground before the door goes all the way. Looks like some more hit and miss DIY is in order!

[Trippingblue 1]

try 1/8" 7x19 wire rope and a Gripple :http://www.gripple.com/us/products/catalogue/industrial/products/hanger-kits/gripplehangersizes.html

[ktang 34]

Now I have the time to re-do the threaded connections to the shower mixer thing properly. The original installer soldered the threaded connections together, a little sloppily, and I was finally able to get them apart.

Has anybody done this? I'm planning on using teflon tape + pipe dope.

[wrangler 157]

What kind of pipe? I've always used teflon tape on steel pipe, and that's been sufficient.

[ktang 34]

What kind of pipe? I've always used teflon tape on steel pipe, and that's been sufficient.

The pipe is copper. I used the pink teflon + the pipe dope just to make double sure; I chased out all of the solder remnants, as far as I can see, but you never know! Also, the shower mixer (actually a tub faucet with the line to the spout plugget off) is 35 yrs old at least.

The initial pressure test has gone well, so if it holds up over the next few days I'm going to close up the hole in the closet accessing the shower plumbing with this 14" x 14" spring-loaded panel gizmo that I saw at Rona.

[wrangler 157]

I've never used threaded copper, but I don't see the need for anything but teflon tape with threads. I would think that anything additional would just get in the way. I'm glad it's working for you.

Around here, copper pipe is unthreaded, and soldered after applying flux.