Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

yinzwinz

using epoxy to extend the life of your blade?

By yinzwinz, in Roller Hockey Equipment

Recommended Posts

fatwabbit    93

fatwabbit
Posted

I wrote about this some time ago... still got the photos on photobucket.

Here's what I've done in the past with epoxy. I used to play on a pretty abrasive rink (not as bad as asphalt) but it wears your blade and wheels down pretty fast. I used to play once a week, and changed blades every 6-8 weeks. With this epoxy method, I changed blades once every 6-8 months, and that was mainly due to the blade getting too battered for use. Epoxy was $5 and lasted me 6 or so applications, and compared to a $40 wood curve it was a good alternative.

The trick is to keep the epoxy to about 5mm thick max. Anything more and you would crack the epoxy. No problems with slap or snap shots.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4445.jpg - Setup the epoxy application. Masking tape (cream colored ones work best, the plastic type transparent/brown packing tape leaves a lot of sticky residue). Stick needs to be set against a chair or benchtop so that the bottom of the blade is parallel to whatever you want the lie to be. Make sure its done in a well ventilated area... some epoxy stinks to high heaven. I normally use Araldite or Selley but you should be able to use any type of epoxy. Try the slow cure ones first before going to the quick set type.... gives you more time to slowly do the application and the epoxy flows into the crevices at the bottom of the blade. The bottom of the blade would need to be sanded a little to give the epoxy more 'grip'... newspaper on the floor would be a good idea as well, in case you drip any epoxy.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4446.jpg - Tape up one side of the blade with the masking tape. Be sure to allow the tape to hang over the edge of the blade by about an inch. Overlap on the heel and toe of the blade as well so that the epoxy will not flow onto the tenon, or drip off the toe of the blade

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4447.jpg - Tape up the other side of the blade, again leaving about 1inch overhang. This forms the 'mould' or channel along the bottom edge of the blade for the epoxy to set in

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4449.jpg - Mix up the epoxy well, preferably on something that you can then use as a funnel

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4450.jpg - Slowly pour the mixture into the channel

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4461.jpg - Epoxy will slowly spread out over the length of the edge of the blade. If the epoxy is too thick, just use the spatula to spread it out a little.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4462.jpg - optional step, but I thought I would add it for those who put too much overhang on the masking tape. The weight of the epoxy may cause the masking tape to bow outwards, so maybe you can clamp a thin layer of plastic on both sides of the blade to make sure the channel stays the way it is. The C clamp is a little overkill, but I couldnt find anymore bulldog clips.

Best to wait 24hours, or until the fulll strength of the epoxy is reached. Remove the masking tape and you should have a layer of epoxy stuck on the bottom edge of the blade. There bottom may not have a very even surface, but a couple of minutes on the rink and the bottom would be worn off to your normal lie. The fastest I've ever used this was about 2hours between games. I wore off the initial epoxy, and applied the second layer with 5min epoxy. Left it to set before playing the next game (brought a backup anyway). Worked out pretty well, but some dickhead touched the epoxy when I was applying it and smeared some on the blade itself.

*Disclaimer... I've used this to save money, and in some cases the epoxy does crack off and might take some of the wood along with it. I've also tried different material 'filler's that I found in the workshop (aluminum shavings, plastic, small bolts and nuts) to add some wear resistance to the epoxy, but found that epoxy was still the best. You might be able to get the type of epoxy that has steel dust already embedded in the tubes, and those work quite well.

Whatever the case, let me know how it goes. Hope this helps...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

fatwabbit    93

fatwabbit
Posted

Yea... no prob. Let me know how it goes.

The team I play on in my hometown tried it before, but they found it a hassle to do. I would still be doing it today if I played on that surface (still do when I go back home to visit the folks).

Bear in mind that the epoxy works with limited effect for composite blades. It only sticks well to composite if you apply pressure (split blade with epoxy and clamps to hold it down). With wood, the bottom edge usually has a lot of small crevices that the epoxy can seep into.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

yinzwinz    0

yinzwinz
Posted
Yea... no prob. Let me know how it goes.

The team I play on in my hometown tried it before, but they found it a hassle to do. I would still be doing it today if I played on that surface (still do when I go back home to visit the folks).

Bear in mind that the epoxy works with limited effect for composite blades. It only sticks well to composite if you apply pressure (split blade with epoxy and clamps to hold it down). With wood, the bottom edge usually has a lot of small crevices that the epoxy can seep into.

Yeah I will be using it on wooden blades so it should work rather well.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

fatwabbit    93

fatwabbit
Posted
Can you do a quick fix on a cracked composite blade with epoxy?

You can, but with limited effect. It would not be as 'solid' as the original, but will allow you a few more playing times with the blade. Important thing if you are doing that is the clamping force you need to apply. Without the clamping force, the epoxy will just set, but with the clamping force applied it adheres very well.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

waltonhcky05    0

waltonhcky05
Posted

Sorry for the old bump. But would epoxy help stop chipping at the toe of the blade? My One95 has recently got a small but fairly deep chip in the toe and I'm wondering if adding some epoxy in and around the hole would prevent the chipping from continuing.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

iceburg19    1

iceburg19
Posted

Sorry for the old bump. But would epoxy help stop chipping at the toe of the blade? My One95 has recently got a small but fairly deep chip in the toe and I'm wondering if adding some epoxy in and around the hole would prevent the chipping from continuing.

Ive used the epoxy on the tip my blades before. Putting some tape on the end after the epoxy helps keep it intacted.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

iceburg19    1

iceburg19
Posted

Is there a certain type of epoxy we should look for? or perhaps brand?

I use a two part epoxy for plastic material. Unless someone uses somthing different. check out the home depot.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

fatwabbit    93

fatwabbit
Posted

you should be able to do up the toe, but as I've posted before the important thing is to include some sort of clamping force to the broken area.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

fatwabbit    93

fatwabbit
Posted

Depends on the extent of the crack or damage... lets put it this way, everyone has seen a brand new blade crack or break, so effectively this would be a short term remedy. If you are lucky you can get it to last a long time, if not, maybe one shot/shift/game.... who knows.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Go To Topic Listing
×
×
  • Create New...