shooting tips

[Action Jackson 0]

Im having problems getting zip on my snap shot. Accuracy is good just no power. Any tips?

[Chadd 916]

Very vague question, hard to answer without more info.

1. Does your stick bend on wrist/snap shots?

2. Do you feel the stick load and release?

3. Do you roll the puck from heel to toe or do you cup it?

4. How do you define a "snap shot"?

[Action Jackson 0]

1) I dont think it bends on snap/wrist shots

2) No

3) I hit the puck in the middle of the blade (lindros mid curve..thinking of switching to a drury)

4)Like a wrister but a quick seperation of the puck from the blade..thena snap of the wrists.

[legiahockey 3]

what stick model and flex are you using? and how big are you?

[Jarick 5]

Read through this thread, it's very good.

[evor1 6]

definitely want to be hitting the puck with the heel of the blade. not in the middle. and work on proper weight transfer.

[Chadd 916]

1) I dont think it bends on snap/wrist shots

2) No

3) I hit the puck in the middle of the blade (lindros mid curve..thinking of switching to a drury)

4)Like a wrister but a quick seperation of the puck from the blade..thena snap of the wrists.

1. It should, you are probably using a stick that is too stiff for optimal wrist and snap shot performance

2. Work on developing that feel with your stick. Every model is a little different but you should be able to feel the stick load (bend) and then release (kick).

3. Try and keep the puck on your blade a little longer. The longer you have it on your blade, the more you will have control over it.

4. How far are you pulling it back from the puck? Some people will come back a foot or two, others a couple inches. You want the separation to be no more than a couple inches.

As you come through the puck, you should be pulling back with your top hand and going forward with your bottom hand. That should create a bend in the shaft below your bottom hand. You may need to work on your timing as you want to make sure that the puck is coming off the stick as the shaft is providing its kick. Sometimes slowing down your shooting motion to make it more fluid will pay off, a few members here have had success doing that.

Be careful that you aren't wasting effort pushing down in order to get the stick to flex. You should have a minimal amount of downward force to help load the blade, but more than slight downward force will rob you of velocity. Having a stiff stick will also require you to put a lot of downward force in order to get it to flex properly. That extra force will make it harder to get the shot off consistently.

Some guys use what I call the "quick hands" method for snap shots. Essentially the stick doesn't bend at all and the velocity comes from them using the shaft as a lever. The shots will be fairly consistent as you have no flex, loading or kick tendencies of the stick to learn. You can not use this method with a lower flex stick or your shots will be anemic.

[legiahockey 3]

definitely want to be hitting the puck with the heel of the blade. not in the middle. and work on proper weight transfer.

idk...i get the most zip off the toe

[K9 Unit 1]

definitely want to be hitting the puck with the heel of the blade. not in the middle. and work on proper weight transfer.

idk...i get the most zip off the toe

i think that depends on your curve and pp, but i too get most zip close to the toe (i use a p10), but when i use a sakic like curve, i'll shoot with the puck around mid heel for best effect :)

[Chadd 916]

definitely want to be hitting the puck with the heel of the blade. not in the middle. and work on proper weight transfer.

idk...i get the most zip off the toe

i think that depends on your curve and pp, but i too get most zip close to the toe (i use a p10), but when i use a sakic like curve, i'll shoot with the puck around mid heel for best effect :)

It depends on your shooting motion.

[K9 Unit 1]

definitely want to be hitting the puck with the heel of the blade. not in the middle. and work on proper weight transfer.

idk...i get the most zip off the toe

i think that depends on your curve and pp, but i too get most zip close to the toe (i use a p10), but when i use a sakic like curve, i'll shoot with the puck around mid heel for best effect :)

It depends on your shooting motion.

having a different curve can change you shooting motion right? coz i definitely prefer the p10, with the sakic like curve i feel like i'm fighting to keep the puck down

[Chadd 916]

definitely want to be hitting the puck with the heel of the blade. not in the middle. and work on proper weight transfer.

idk...i get the most zip off the toe

i think that depends on your curve and pp, but i too get most zip close to the toe (i use a p10), but when i use a sakic like curve, i'll shoot with the puck around mid heel for best effect :)

It depends on your shooting motion.

having a different curve can change you shooting motion right? coz i definitely prefer the p10, with the sakic like curve i feel like i'm fighting to keep the puck down

The curve doesn't change your shooting motion. You may find you need to change your shooting motion with different curves though. I think it makes more sense to find a curve that suits your motion as long as you have a moderately effective shooting technique.

[raygunpk 0]

1) I dont think it bends on snap/wrist shots

2) No

3) I hit the puck in the middle of the blade (lindros mid curve..thinking of switching to a drury)

4)Like a wrister but a quick seperation of the puck from the blade..thena snap of the wrists.

1. It should, you are probably using a stick that is too stiff for optimal wrist and snap shot performance

2. Work on developing that feel with your stick. Every model is a little different but you should be able to feel the stick load (bend) and then release (kick).

3. Try and keep the puck on your blade a little longer. The longer you have it on your blade, the more you will have control over it.

4. How far are you pulling it back from the puck? Some people will come back a foot or two, others a couple inches. You want the separation to be no more than a couple inches.

As you come through the puck, you should be pulling back with your top hand and going forward with your bottom hand. That should create a bend in the shaft below your bottom hand. You may need to work on your timing as you want to make sure that the puck is coming off the stick as the shaft is providing its kick. Sometimes slowing down your shooting motion to make it more fluid will pay off, a few members here have had success doing that.

Be careful that you aren't wasting effort pushing down in order to get the stick to flex. You should have a minimal amount of downward force to help load the blade, but more than slight downward force will rob you of velocity. Having a stiff stick will also require you to put a lot of downward force in order to get it to flex properly. That extra force will make it harder to get the shot off consistently.

Some guys use what I call the "quick hands" method for snap shots. Essentially the stick doesn't bend at all and the velocity comes from them using the shaft as a lever. The shots will be fairly consistent as you have no flex, loading or kick tendencies of the stick to learn. You can not use this method with a lower flex stick or your shots will be anemic.

Is this meant for when you are in close and need a quick shot? I can't imagine getting much power from just fligning the puck using the stick.

[Chadd 916]

1) I dont think it bends on snap/wrist shots

2) No

3) I hit the puck in the middle of the blade (lindros mid curve..thinking of switching to a drury)

4)Like a wrister but a quick seperation of the puck from the blade..thena snap of the wrists.

1. It should, you are probably using a stick that is too stiff for optimal wrist and snap shot performance

2. Work on developing that feel with your stick. Every model is a little different but you should be able to feel the stick load (bend) and then release (kick).

3. Try and keep the puck on your blade a little longer. The longer you have it on your blade, the more you will have control over it.

4. How far are you pulling it back from the puck? Some people will come back a foot or two, others a couple inches. You want the separation to be no more than a couple inches.

As you come through the puck, you should be pulling back with your top hand and going forward with your bottom hand. That should create a bend in the shaft below your bottom hand. You may need to work on your timing as you want to make sure that the puck is coming off the stick as the shaft is providing its kick. Sometimes slowing down your shooting motion to make it more fluid will pay off, a few members here have had success doing that.

Be careful that you aren't wasting effort pushing down in order to get the stick to flex. You should have a minimal amount of downward force to help load the blade, but more than slight downward force will rob you of velocity. Having a stiff stick will also require you to put a lot of downward force in order to get it to flex properly. That extra force will make it harder to get the shot off consistently.

Some guys use what I call the "quick hands" method for snap shots. Essentially the stick doesn't bend at all and the velocity comes from them using the shaft as a lever. The shots will be fairly consistent as you have no flex, loading or kick tendencies of the stick to learn. You can not use this method with a lower flex stick or your shots will be anemic.

Is this meant for when you are in close and need a quick shot? I can't imagine getting much power from just fligning the puck using the stick.

It's mostly due to people learning with sticks that are so stiff that they don't flex. Believe it or not, I know a lot of adults that use that method and get decent velocity on their shots. A lighter flex and five minutes of practice and most of them gain even more velocity though.

[Action Jackson 0]

Im 6'1", 180 lbs, and use a 102 Lindros one95.

[gxc999 7]

Chadd is very correct about the fast hands method. I normally do that but in slowing down I've gained a lot. Basically, start the motion slower but finish stronger. It allows more loading time.

[Chadd 916]

Chadd is very correct about the fast hands method. I normally do that but in slowing down I've gained a lot. Basically, start the motion slower but finish stronger. It allows more loading time.

That's actually a very good way of describing it. Much like a golf swing, you want to accelerate all the way through the shot.

[Gomer 1]

It's mostly due to people learning with sticks that are so stiff that they don't flex. Believe it or not, I know a lot of adults that use that method and get decent velocity on their shots. A lighter flex and five minutes of practice and most of them gain even more velocity though.

I'm pretty sure I'm in the stick too stiff boat myself. 5'8", 145 using wood sticks (bargain bucket Montreal). Can a guy my size get a wood stick to flex? Any recommendations for something reasonably priced (i.e. cheap), that I could use that would flex? I'm in mid-MI and I've yet to find LHS nirvana.

Or should I just keep learning with a stick that isn't flexing?

[Chadd 916]

It's mostly due to people learning with sticks that are so stiff that they don't flex. Believe it or not, I know a lot of adults that use that method and get decent velocity on their shots. A lighter flex and five minutes of practice and most of them gain even more velocity though.

I'm pretty sure I'm in the stick too stiff boat myself. 5'8", 145 using wood sticks (bargain bucket Montreal). Can a guy my size get a wood stick to flex? Any recommendations for something reasonably priced (i.e. cheap), that I could use that would flex? I'm in mid-MI and I've yet to find LHS nirvana.

Or should I just keep learning with a stick that isn't flexing?

Intermediate wood stick? The only question there is the length and shaft thickness. A buddy of mine that is 5-7 prefers intermediates, your mileage may vary.

[Jarick 5]

Only problem with intermediate wood sticks is that they tend to have really bad blades that torque wide open. 5030's are okay, everything else is either way too whippy, torques open, or too stiff.

[top_shelf_24 0]

intermediate supreme 60s are pretty good sticks if you can get your hands on one

[Jarick 5]

Those things feel like about 100 flex.

[gxc999 7]

It's mostly due to people learning with sticks that are so stiff that they don't flex. Believe it or not, I know a lot of adults that use that method and get decent velocity on their shots. A lighter flex and five minutes of practice and most of them gain even more velocity though.

I'm pretty sure I'm in the stick too stiff boat myself. 5'8", 145 using wood sticks (bargain bucket Montreal). Can a guy my size get a wood stick to flex? Any recommendations for something reasonably priced (i.e. cheap), that I could use that would flex? I'm in mid-MI and I've yet to find LHS nirvana.

Or should I just keep learning with a stick that isn't flexing?

If you can afford it, check out an 8/10k in mid flex, 75 approx, 58" top to heel. That might be perfect for you. And one of the biggest components to shooting most B/C/D leaguers forget is lower back/core strength. It really makes a big difference. A lot of people think just transferring your weight and building strong legs is the whole deal. It's the most important thing but not the only thing. With that said, first focus on mastering the basics, then keep working and make some slight alterations as you find what works better for you. No two people have the exact same shot, it depends on a lot of factors, including torso/arm length, experience, strength, type of shot, etc. Heck, even finger size is a factor <_<

Becoming an even half decent shooter was such a time consuming process for me, I was very frustrated about it for a long time. Now the thing I get complimented on most is my shot.

[thejackal 46]

great tips, make sure you practice a lot. it took me about 7 years of taking on average 200 shots a week in season to get a seriously good shot. on a shooting site a while back they had a 10000 puck challenge, give that a try and you'll like the results.