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CaptainZbubble

Getting the blade out of a ops

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i broke my Hull xn10 painted like a response plus this week directly in the middle of the shaft. I came home and heated the fuse point for a good 20 minutes or so and i cant get the blade out. i heated off the paint and scratched it off so i know exactly where the blade is fused in. I dont have a vice to hold the shaft so i have to rely on good old man power and my heat gun.What methods do u suggest to use to get it out? I know some members have masterd the skill and im looking for your expertise.(SP?)

CaptainZbubble

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If you cut the shaft just at the top of the hosel, you'll be to get a look at how deep to slice. Find the side with the thickest white (glue), and cut lengthwise into it. Pry open the slice with a screwdriver and the glue will release from the stub of the shaft. Then it's a simple matter of scraping/chiseling the glue from the hosel.

Hope this helps.

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You can re-use blades from a broken OPS?! I never knew that can you do it with all of them, because I have a old response that the shaft is to short for even with the plug so can i take the blade out and use it in a shaft?

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If you cut the shaft just at the top of the hosel, you'll be to get a look at how deep to slice. Find the side with the thickest white (glue), and cut lengthwise into it. Pry open the slice with a screwdriver and the glue will release from the stub of the shaft. Then it's a simple matter of scraping/chiseling the glue from the hosel.

Hope this helps.

I'm not quite understanding that. I'm gonna do this to my 1100 blade soon but I can't understand where exactly to cut.

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I've never done this to an Inno, but the concept should be the same. The point I was trying to make was that if you cut the shaft right where the hosel stops (and the hollow part of the shaft starts), you will get a better look at the layers you're dealing with. To judge where to cut, tap on the shaft to find where it sounds hollow, or stick something long & thin from the other end to measure (remove foam if necessary).That makes it easier to see how deep to slice the remainder of the shaft without cutting into the hosel. Also makes it easier to peel it away.

All of this assumes that you don't have a shaft that you want to salvage.

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I've never done this to an Inno, but the concept should be the same. The point I was trying to make was that if you cut the shaft right where the hosel stops (and the hollow part of the shaft starts), you will get a better look at the layers you're dealing with. To judge where to cut, tap on the shaft to find where it sounds hollow, or stick something long & thin from the other end to measure (remove foam if necessary).That makes it easier to see how deep to slice the remainder of the shaft without cutting into the hosel. Also makes it easier to peel it away.

All of this assumes that you don't have a shaft that you want to salvage.

Alright but where/how do you cut after that?

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If you don't have a vice you can use a c-clamp. The hardware stores in the US sell a decent sized one for 6bucks, so figure 20 Canadien--oh wait, Easton doesn't manuf c-clamps.

Anyway, take a decently thick piece of four inch X four inch cardboard, wrap it around the shaft; place the stick across the corner of a work-bench-style table and clamp the mofo down so the blade is hanging over the edge. Clamp the shaft closer toward the bottom and just make sure it is clamped tight, but not gorilla tight. Plug in your heatgun, making sure the cardboard is not near the fuse point, aim the heatgun at the fuse point atleast an inch away and hold 'er there for a good solid three minutes. Then grasp the blade and give her a really good yank! Voila!

WHO'S YOUR DADDY!

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ambro,

Try to see where the shaft ends on the blade - usually about 2" down from the top of the hosel.Then just make a shallow cut lengthwise, trying not to cut into the hosel.It's easier to see how deep if they used a different color glue to fuse it on the shaft. If not, just judge by how thick the wall was on the shaft you cut off.

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