Fixing broken Dolomite

[jww83 0]

If this is a redundant topic i sincerely apologise. I've searched endlessly and couldn't find the answer but if someone knows a thread that this has thoroughly been covered in could you please just redirect and then close the topic.

Anyway what i was wondering, was how easy is it to replace the blade if it breaks in the OPS in comparison to the shaft blade combo. It's widely publicised that the two piece dolo is EXACTLY the same as the OPS version, however does the fusing into the one piece make it more difficult to replace the blade?

The reason i ask is i can get the OPS for cheaper than buying the exact same combo in two pieces. Would the OPS just be a matter of heating and pulling? And furthermore regardless of what all the sites say, would the fusing process create any benefits over buying the two piece version.

Once again, sorry if its been covered, and thank you in advance for any help.

[sds 0]

If this is a redundant topic i sincerely apologise. I've searched endlessly and couldn't find the answer but if someone knows a thread that this has thoroughly been covered in could you please just redirect and then close the topic.

Anyway what i was wondering, was how easy is it to replace the blade if it breaks in the OPS in comparison to the shaft blade combo. It's widely publicised that the two piece dolo is EXACTLY the same as the OPS version, however does the fusing into the one piece make it more difficult to replace the blade?

The reason i ask is i can get the OPS for cheaper than buying the exact same combo in two pieces. Would the OPS just be a matter of heating and pulling? And furthermore regardless of what all the sites say, would the fusing process create any benefits over buying the two piece version.

Once again, sorry if its been covered, and thank you in advance for any help.

From my understanding, getting the blade out is a real bitch and most people turn their shafts over and use a standard blade instead.

I went w/ the dolo shaft/blade combo for this exact reason. The few $$$ you save is probably not worth it. I now know I have an easily replaceable shaft or blade should one break.

[swede 51]

no it's not a bitch.. If you can see the fusepoint, just use a heat gun to heat up the area around the fusepoint and then pull the blade out.. It's a real simple job.

[sds 0]

no it's not a bitch.. If you can see the fusepoint, just use a heat gun to heat up the area around the fusepoint and then pull the blade out.. It's a real simple job.

I thought the glue they used was much, much stronger than the standard glue on a combo stick?

[jww83 0]

no it's not a bitch.. If you can see the fusepoint, just use a heat gun to heat up the area around the fusepoint and then pull the blade out.. It's a real simple job.

So from what your saying, the "fusing" is just the same gluing you would do with the two piece, with a coat of paint over it? Is this true?

[Fire0nIce228 1]

I believe in most sticks its a little more than glue with a slap of paint over it, but there are several OPS that you can pull apart, not just the dolo..

[swede 51]

no it's not a bitch.. If you can see the fusepoint, just use a heat gun to heat up the area around the fusepoint and then pull the blade out.. It's a real simple job.

I thought the glue they used was much, much stronger than the standard glue on a combo stick?

it's stronger, but you can still pull out the blade if you heat it enough, and have some "power" to pull with

[Caniac4 0]

I was able to take the blade out of a dolo OPS fairly easily. I used the edge of a flat-head screwdriver to scrape away the coating at the fuse point all the way around the stick. It did take quite a bit more heating with a hot air gun than a normal shaft due to the epoxy used on the OPS. About 10 minutes of heating and a few "wiggles" and the blade came right out.

I replaced the blade with an Easton Synergy II Iginla and its become my number 1 stick.

[jww83 0]

I was able to take the blade out of a dolo OPS fairly easily. I used the edge of a flat-head screwdriver to scrape away the coating at the fuse point all the way around the stick. It did take quite a bit more heating with a hot air gun than a normal shaft due to the epoxy used on the OPS. About 10 minutes of heating and a few "wiggles" and the blade came right out.

I replaced the blade with an Easton Synergy II Iginla and its become my number 1 stick.

Even with the obvious extra effort was the shaft itself still in perfect condition? With extra heating and wiggling just seams like it might damage the shaft a bit.

[blues_91 0]

As long as you let the shaft cool enough before you use it, it should be fine. I've heated and pulled blades out of an inno 1100 as well as the dolo-they're exactly the same as the shaft/blade combo.

[yipperzz 28]

i had a pro stock and that thing would NOT come off with just heat. i had to cut it off. i went at it with a screwdriver for about 30 minutes and finally got the rest of the glue off. it was a pain in the ass. i saved money because i got a good deal on the OPS. but if i paid full price, it wouldn't have been worth it.

[CTHockey 2]

Ive used this trick on several broken Dolomites and it work on every one with no problem. What i do is first heat up the shaft at the fuse point like i would any other stick. Next i take a piece of Re Bar (metal rod used to reenforce concrete)and push it down the butt end side of the stick till it hits the hosel of the blade. I then flip the stick upside down so the re bar is closest to the ground and i give it a couple hard taps outside on the ground. Usually after heating it up and two or three hits the blade comes right out!!!! no need for pulling with all your mite to get it out

[fastmiele 59]

Ive used this trick on several broken Dolomites and it work on every one with no problem. What i do is first heat up the shaft at the fuse point like i would any other stick. Next i take a piece of Re Bar (metal rod used to reenforce concrete)and push it down the butt end side of the stick till it hits the hosel of the blade. I then flip the stick upside down so the re bar is closest to the ground and i give it a couple hard taps outside on the ground. Usually after heating it up and two or three hits the blade comes right out!!!! no need for pulling with all your mite to get it out

wow, what a great idea. very smart and innovative. thumbs up to you :lol:

the only thing is that I wonder if its going to work on fused pro stock dolomites. I tried many times heating and more heating with plenty of help from friend on pulling. Nothing happened, didn't even budge.

[DamnLocust 0]

with a friend, sit on the floor across from one another, with your feet and his feet together, and use your legs for leverage. it will still takes some work, but a lot easier than just doing a tug of war until it pops.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Its epoxy that is used to "fuse" the blade to the shaft, not glue. So yea, if you want to make your two piece a "fused" one piece, just add epoxy ;)

[CTHockey 2]

The trick with the pro stock dolomites is to give it a little help. I usually take a very fine saw and just cut along the fuse point. not all the way thru but just enough. i then heat it up and use to old re bar trick. ive yet to have one dolomite give me trouble and not be able to get the blade out

[Caniac4 0]

I was able to take the blade out of a dolo OPS fairly easily. I used the edge of a flat-head screwdriver to scrape away the coating at the fuse point all the way around the stick. It did take quite a bit more heating with a hot air gun than a normal shaft due to the epoxy used on the OPS. About 10 minutes of heating and a few "wiggles" and the blade came right out.

I replaced the blade with an Easton Synergy II Iginla and its become my number 1 stick.

Even with the obvious extra effort was the shaft itself still in perfect condition? With extra heating and wiggling just seams like it might damage the shaft a bit.

This shaft has been doing fine so far. I've used it for 10 games and 2 stick and puck sessions without problem.

I think the rebar trick would have kept me from "wiggling" it though. Great tip!

[daca 0]

now to find some rebar...

[nils 0]

Can anyone of you make me a pic, from a repaiered dolomite shaft ??? thanks

[leafs1967 2]

Ive used this trick on several broken Dolomites and it work on every one with no problem. What i do is first heat up the shaft at the fuse point like i would any other stick. Next i take a piece of Re Bar (metal rod used to reenforce concrete)and push it down the butt end side of the stick till it hits the hosel of the blade. I then flip the stick upside down so the re bar is closest to the ground and i give it a couple hard taps outside on the ground. Usually after heating it up and two or three hits the blade comes right out!!!! no need for pulling with all your mite to get it out

Thanks for the tip using the rebar. Did the trick quite nicely blade popped out pretty easy.

Thanks again for the tip

[cltanaka 0]

I was able to take the blade out of my Warrior Dolomite with minimal effort but have temporarily given up trying to remove the blade from a Bauer Vapor XX after some serious heating and pulling.

Does anyone have any experience getting the blade out of a Vapor XX? If so was it difficult?

Thanks,

Chris

[hockeyplaya97 0]

Yeah I kinda am in distress.

I got the rebar stuck in the hosel of my SyNergy 350. Any tips on getting it unstuck?

[blues_91 0]

I was able to take the blade out of my Warrior Dolomite with minimal effort but have temporarily given up trying to remove the blade from a Bauer Vapor XX after some serious heating and pulling.

Does anyone have any experience getting the blade out of a Vapor XX? If so was it difficult?

Thanks,

Chris

That's actually pretty funny- Vapor XX and Dolomite are almost the same sticks, made by the same manufacturer. I was able to get the blade out of them easily, all that was needed was a bit of leverage.

[cltanaka 0]

Maybe I just have a Vapor XX that's particularly difficult to separate. I heated the crap out of it at the fuse point, cranked it down in my Workmate bench, and horsed on it like crazy. All I managed to do was scratch up the decals on the shaft a bit and get myself worked up in the process.

I'll try the rebar method and see what happens.

Thanks.

[hockeyplaya97 0]

Don't heat the shaft too much, it'll start to crack like my Royale which apparently isn't a fused one piece.