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the_game

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Posts posted by the_game


  1. Wait shouldn’t this be in the ‘Sprung’ thread? Or are they keeping the ‘fizix’ name? For marketing purposes I think the name sprung works better but that’s just me.

    I guess the next question is what the cost will be and if they’ll be in the $400’ish range that Labeda recently created for aftermarket inline chassis/frames.


  2. On 7/7/2023 at 6:05 PM, Westside said:

    I'm currently in Cat Pros and am happy with them, but really wanted to try the new FT6 Pros. Met up with Flooded Customs from IG who designed a wrap inspired by the black option CCM offers through their custom program, but with the last gen logo. I think they turned out awesome and I look forward to testing the skates out! Wish more skates were made to look as subtle as this off the shelf

    DSCF7227-vi.jpg

    That dude is the absolute best. He sent me a care package of designs a while back that are just awesome. 

    • Like 1

  3. Wasn’t down at Torhs but followed along with ther live stream and some insta accounts.

    Tour:

    - looks like they have a new line coming out the ‘Spitfire’ skate is one of them.

    - another was the KVX line I think, something along the lines of that, also looked like they was one skate line with white leather and another with a more traditional all black set up.

    Labeda:

    - saw some Instagram posts about an all pink wheel some guys were wearing, specifically Travis noe. Trying to get some of my ol’ roller sources to get me more info.

    - most notably was a new frame. It looked as it the chassis could adjust to where it sat under the boot, either more forward or backward. Someone mentioned the frame could be adjusted to use a hi-lo or instead an all 80 set up. I’m assuming this would most likely be on a tour boot with a recessed outsole to accommodate this movement. Guess we have to stay tuned for what it is really is.

    - Unify Black Ice’s customs gloves, I think they were made by Mach1? Not sure of the overall quality but very and some nice touches around the graphics and sublimation used. 
     

    If you were down at Torhs please share some info! It’s good to see Tour and labeda pushing the game forward. Seems like it’s been too long since they were putting new tech and designs out there, glad that’s back!

     


  4. 6 hours ago, start_today said:

    My tendon guard is like that first pic. Looks like the screw broke, so the tail end of it is sheared off in the tendon guard. 

    Im not a particularly intuitively mechanically inclined person, but I can do the stuff with directions. How do I get the small piece of screw out of the tendon guard? 

    Just drill it out, that’s what I did on mine when a small chunk broke off and was lodged in the skate. 


  5. On 12/5/2022 at 8:49 AM, PUCKSTOPPROSHOPJL said:

    Deke,  I appreciate your comments and I think we're getting to a core issue. When I was Army test flying helicopters, we always started balancing a rotor system by first hovering, putting grams of lead weights on or off the rotor first to "balance" it at a hover. Then we "track' the blades by fixing the "gap" bringing the together by adjusting the Pitch Control Links, before we even start to fly it. This could take a day but was an important step. Getting things to straighten out at a hover BEFORE even flying was an essential first step. If we didn't spend the time on the ground first, it would NEVER be corrected by flying it in the air. This brings me to my point, Blades in the air or blades on the ice, you have pro shops that are throwing you into the air before knowing anything about how you feel on the ice. I start with you standing on your skates with a single radius and tell me WHAT you feel. Where is your center of gravity (GC).  Then we slowly work through what you're saying by trying single or combination radius first.  Correct yourself first by going back to a single radius. Find your CG, then start adjustments by moving a pivot point, fore or aft.  Now, more acceleration, try a combo 10/13 with "YOUR" pivot point, we continue to work like this until the skater locks in something they like. We work simply and slowly at first, then go more complex and quicker downstream. If you're having problems with your blades, have the neutralize back to a simple profile and work outwards from there.  I work with D1 hockey players, juniors, high school et.  I use this method and give them a "testing" profile which is pre-profiled so costs for doing this are low. Once the skater is locked in, that's when they get charged for the profile. Same cost as if you sent them in the mail to me.  

     

    I’m lucky enough to have this guy as my local skate sharpener!


  6. @gosinger hope he’s right! 

    Not really sure what inline is like here in the states as I didn’t get to one of the big 3 tourneys this year. But those are usually a huge showcase for Tours, Missions, etc of the world and we haven’t seen that since…well honestly I don’t remember, feels like forever.

    furthermore to @Dfinneran91 I’d love to see Bauer push Mission more, especially in light of Bauer’s ‘hockey is inclusive/the barn PR campaign’. Instead I see $400 sticks and $1100 skates.

    if Bauer wanted to make hockey more inclusive I’d expect Mission roller to be highlighted and marketed. But hey that would eat into profits of their top of the line ice products and whatever collaboration they have up their sleeve with whatever streetwear guy the kids love these days. 


  7. I’m going to give a Rezztek +1 to use during the summer over tape. With the heat waves we’ve been having the ice has been brutal lately, after 15 minutes or so the ice is chopped up and we usually skate for over an hour so you can imagine the amount of a snow build up on your stick blade. That’s where the Rezztek comes in, no ice build up at all and that added grip from the texture on it gives you added control on bouncing pucks or pucks on end.


  8. 4 hours ago, PUCKSTOPPROSHOPJL said:

    I've been following this thread since this morning.  I'm a pro shop owner and work with both PROSHARP AS 2001 AS and Sparx Sharpeners in the Boston area.  A couple of things jump out. First off, blades do not have to be trashed just because you don't know the history. PROSHARP has a process and charts on how to set up the machine for a previously profile blades with either the QUAD, ZUPERIOR or ELLIPSE. If the owner doesn't know or you don't know where the pivot point is, you can use a piece of paper (   I use yellow sticky notes) and on a flat surface, try and located the PP. Now, saying that, I'm not a big fan of this. What I like to do is rebalance, rematch the blades together in the AS 2001. Then I put back on either a 13, 11 or 10 radius. What that does is assure you where the PP is back in the middle before you start a more professional profile like the QUAD's or Zuperior.  Now I've also discovered that I can save some metal on the blades if I'm going to put on a ELLISPE by using the previously mention method depending on the size of the blade you're going to work with. I've also started using the Detroit 1 (a 10/20 combo radius)  if I'm doing a ZUPERIOR profile or a 10/13 combo if I doing a QUAD.  All this is an effort to give the customer the best possible outcome. I have elite hockey players who are D1, D3,  USHL, NAHL.  NE PREP and NE HS players routinely testing profiles on ice at my proshop. So accuracy is as important to them as it is to me.   I hope this helps. 

    Just dropping a note here that @PUCKSTOPPROSHOPJL knows his stuff and does great work. 

    And he didn’t mention the over the hill beer leaguers who will try anything to get an edge that he helps out too!

     


  9. “Built with updated materials for improved feel & performance but holds true to the iconic look with the most iconic patterns that Synergy was known for.”

    Translation, Because if we actually used any of the original materials or build process we’d get exposed that a lot of the current sticks are subpar compared to the original synergy.

    • Like 3

  10. Looks to be similarly priced to Rezztek. Haven’t seen it in person but curious how it stacks up to how thin the Rezztek material is. Not in blade coverage but when sticking it it on, it’s very thin. Not sure the design of the buttendz is ideal with it not covering the entire blade unless they have size options available?

    I’ve tried Rezztek and I think it’s a very good product albeit overpriced. That being said I’ve tried buttendz stick grips and I think the product is subpar and way overpriced, I’d take tacki Mac any day of the week over buttendz. With that in mind I’d most likely go back to Rezztek if I ever went the blade grip route. 


  11. @OzziesDadYou’re dealing with going down a holder size, the pitch/height of the true holder, & whatever radius is on them.

    i went from true customs w/ 272 tuuks  to retail tf9 with a 263 true holder. I stuck it out on the true holder and went with a pro sharp elipse profile at 5/8, took about 2 skates to feel completely comfortable and I haven’t looked back.
     

    By all means you could swap out the holder since you’re in the trues for so little money wise. This would also make most sense if you plan on going back and forth with them and your ccm. Otherwise I’d suggest sticking it out on the true holder, you just might like it.

    • Like 1

  12. I prefer the tacki-Mac Kane grips. I’ve also had success with their other grips and making my own tape jobs and getting the tacki-Mac over it. Never had an issue taking one tack-Mac off and putting it on another stick, I also use hairspray as well which might make it easier.

    I tried the buttendz but I think they’re too pricey and don’t provide the same grip as tacki-Mac. It seems like if you get the buttendz wet or have wet palms the buttendz tend to slip around in your hand, at least that’s my experience.

    • Like 1

  13. 17 hours ago, eastside said:

    Picked up a pair of 3X Pros a few weeks ago, and have skated max 5 times in them at indoor practice, decided to stick with the original millennium wheels to start with as I had good experience with those when i was younger.  Now all of a sudden one of them is beginning to chunk or do something strange.  I'm quite light on wheels and haven't done anything extreme or had and major impacts, so i'm surprised that this is happening.   Going to swap out for addictions for the weekend, but from what I remember Millenniums use to be a decent wheel.

    IMG-20220309-031138.jpg

     

    I had a bunch of the first run of addictions do that back in the day. Labeda was great, sent me a new set and said by the way the wheels with the cracks should be fine. I used the wheels and despite the cracks, labeda was right they performed fine, wheels wore as usual otherwise, not really an issue. 

    • Like 1
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