JR Boucicaut

The first step is that you have to be a MSH member. So, if you're a guest, all you have to do is sign up. From there, you will email proshop@modsquadhockey.com with your name, your username, skate model and skate size. The other requirement is that you have new steel or barely used steel for this. You are also going to want at least two sets that you are able to submit at one time because a) it will ensure that things are equal between sets and b) it will bring down the shipping cost back and forth to you because you'd be sending out less steel. Also, you want to have a control set that hasn't been altered so that in case you test something you don't like, you can easily go back to your old steel. If you are looking to buy steel, we do sell Tydan for LS Edge and Tydan and Step Steel for everything else. You can purchase those here. If you are accepted, you will then place an order for your first sets - you'll choose the profile that we are going to start you out with. That can be found here: http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/store/category/12-the-prosharp-project/ If submitting more than one set, you will choose the first set, then submit but "Continue Shopping." Add the additional set(s) then add the sharpening for it. You will continue to checkout. At that point you will pay for shipping. There are two options, Return Shipping and Ship/Return Shipping. These are Priority Mail prices and will fit in a Priority Mail Legal envelope. If you choose the Ship/Return Shipping, we will e-mail you a label that you can print at home to send to us. If you are local to the Metro Detroit area, discuss that in the email you send out and we will provide you a coupon code to waive the shipping.

What we are doing is giving end-users an opportunity to try out Prosharp's profiles at a vastly reduced cost to the end-user; all you will be responsible for would be the shipping back and forth (or if you're wanting a Flat Bottom V sharpening, you will have to pay a reduced price for that.) When you receive your first profiled set, you will post your experiences with it, then rate it using Prosharp's system, which will be posted. When you are done with the set (if you have offered multiple sets of steel, wait until you skate on all of them) you will send it back to us, and we will discuss what profile you should try next. Then you will repeat the process. Once we determine what works out best for you, go ahead and send in all of your sets and we will then profile them all to match the optimal profile.

As I explained to Prosharp, it's easier in the US because we have flat rate shipping and all that. But as long as you're willing to pay for the shipping cost back and forth, we'll take steel from anywhere.

I saw the third version. It was no longer a Mako.

If it's on the top of your foot, surrounded by the tongue, you should be okay.

Original instructions called for 16 min at a preheated 200°. They scaled it down to 10 min.

Robertson #2

Glad to hear. Do note that if you want to try new stuff, you’re welcome to the program. As it stands right now, we’ve ordered additional templates to get it up and running.

Right. Ryan from Prosharp explained to me how to do it. Involves tricking the machine a little bit, but once it is set, it won't pitch it forward.

No need for that...I was making light of the situation. To be fair, while I've been sharpening skates for almost 20 years, Nicholas can most likely answer Prosharp-specific questions better than me at this point, as he's put more guys in them. I'm still learning it all, and doing our project will allow me (and everyone to see) how different profiles affect different skaters - somewhat of a database.

What JR, er, Nicholas...LOL...said is indeed correct. You need to start over again. Too many times I would see people want the exact same thing they had on their old (different model) skates, not realizing that the boot pitch and rake were completely different on the new ones. I realize that in your case you've been trying to compensate for the pitch, but I don't understand why the Quads were pitched additionally, when they're already pitched forward. This is where a heel lift would've come in handy, because your steel keeps getting lower and lower. Curious to see a picture of the blade - can you provide that? We're waiting for more templates from Prosharp before we can start our project, but someone like you would be a very good candidate.

That was my next question; he's playing Junior A at this point. Perhaps at this point since his feet are not growing, go with custom skates with a reinforced eyerow and ask for the brass eyelets all the way up. The ones that come from the custom program don't include the stamped eyelets. Not sure how CCM handles it, but with Bauer, you could choose where you wanted the reinforcement. I never recommended the entire eyerow done because it makes it harder to wrap, but if he's busting between the top 5, just get that done.

Done a complete eyelet swap, just haven't ever had it requested on a new set. It may be costly, but sounds like it's the way to go. I do have a question, though. Typically, whenever I would see a CCM eyelet fail, it would get corroded then start chunking off. However, here's my question - how is it getting to the point that it's stretching the eyerow? Does he like an extra-tight skate? Is it a situation that the eyelet condition isn't paid attention to and he continues to use them after they've broken? Perhaps try lacing outside-in? Different laces? It just seems that it is stressing the boot quite a bit.

The hydrophobic Clarino Bauer used to offer was much better in that regard. I don’t know if True treats theirs.

I was referring to with the Sno-Seal used internally. As far as tackiness is concerned, it's not as much as the gripliner/cloth you're seeing in skates today; that's all personal preference anyway. Clarino does get slimy if you skate barefoot and you don't wipe it down between uses. Didn't need a time machine back to 1995 to remember that one. 🙂

I've only used Sno-Seal in an exterior application. And when you do that, you have to heat the surface to get it to melt in. I can't see the benefit of putting it on interior synthetic leather; there's a reason why most brands have walked away from it; comfortable for sure, but not the best moisture management out there. Plus, doesn't it get tacky/slimy?

Sno-Seal on the interior Clarino?

Looks to be True Temper-supplied carbon fiber as the weave looks like the one they’re using on the sticks. Makes sense to switch to it.

That's a reference, not acceptance. But the bigger issue is that people put it on one skate brand (which has the biggest retail market share), which is unfair. For example: I promise I am not trying to pick on you here, but I feel that in a professional setting it is best to refer to it by its correct name. It carries more weight. I used to have customers come to me and mention a Bauer bump, and I would correct them and tell them it's a Haglund's deformity. They would thank me afterwards because now they were able to research it better on how/why it happens and how to treat it, because they didn't know exactly what it was.

Then we educate them. Repeating it is just perpetuating the issue.

It’s called a Haglund’s deformity. Get it right. It reeks of ignorance when referred to as a Bauer Bump. It can happen in any skate. And sadly, I think people who use that term to pin it on a particular skate brand don’t know why they occur in the first place.

That information is in the Bauer thread.

I can tell you in December. Might be a posture issue.

Most likely created for a customer (as the Hudson ones are.)

Glides are single 11’ with the corresponding flat spots. Hudson are dual radius with flat spots.