s4gobabygo

i'd pass on that, but because it's overpriced. i sold my 97 m3 with similar modifications (which generally have no resale value) with 115k miles for $8k. i disagree about it being too much car for an 18-year old. a bad/inexperienced/oblivious driver can get in just as much trouble in a civic as in an M3. when it comes to safety, focus on the driver first, not the car.

some new sticks: pic

thanks. what kind of racecar are you towing? i tow my m3 and formula ford with an old GMC V8 pickup that i got for $3000. i never drive that truck other than to/from the racetrack, with a trailer on the back. i'll try to get some pictures of the formula ford 1600 up soon, but i keep it at a warehouse (along with the truck) away from home. the B5 S4 was a great daily driver. if i could do it again (and i might), i'd find one that has never been modified whatsoever, and either leave the drivetrain absolutely stock (except for a samco hose kit), or just go all the way and do a complete OEM RS4 engine/turbo upgrade. mine was chipped and had a number of other go-fast modifications, which made it a true rocket on the highway, but it was a ticking time bomb. turbos were failing, head gasket leaking, rear main seal leaking, etc. that's not speaking badly of the car, though... that was a result of the modifications i did to it, and the amount of time it spent on the track. if properly maintained, and conservatively/smartly modified, it's a perfectly reliable car. the funny thing is my 135i drives like an e46 m3 with a chipped b5 s4 motor. unless you have a particular soft spot for the B5 S4 (twin turbo v6 like i had), i'd suggest looking at a B6 S4 (made from 2004-2005.5). it's a naturally aspirated V8, and only slightly more expensive than a B5. you'd likely have less maintenance on one of those, and it would definitely make a better tow vehicle. (this is all assuming you're towing something rather light).

nice cars. the m3 is for instructing at HPDE events only. for racing purposes, i'm in a true lightweight... a formula ford 1600. hoping to move to formula continental within the next couple years. as for the orange, i'm guessing GT3-RS. amazing car! i had the chance drive one for a day at summit point raceway last year. what a machine. not something to be played with, though... tons of grip (up to a point, then BAM it's gone, like every porsche), and classic porsche rear-heavy weight distribution. a death trap at the hands of an inexperienced and overzealous driver... it really wants to be backwards. what a rewarding car for the attentive driver, though! i might have to shed a tear about the challenge stradale not ever seeing the track, though! that would be like ordering custom X-60's, then only using them at public skating :P i highly recommend taking it to a ferrari club event. their instructors are great.

i'm going to have to disagree. the rs4 is a great highway car, but the m3 has near-perfect weight distribution, limited slip diff, and much less weight. the rs4 would win in a drag race, but if you throw turns into the mix, the rs4's poor weight distribution, weak awd system, and extra ballast are its downfall. the audi awd system is (from a technical standpoint) one of the least advanced awd systems out there, with open differentials and a limited and fixed center diff. thats not to say i wouldnt mind one as a daily driver, but as a performance car, the rs4 would never do it for me, since it still suffers from the same downsides that my old s4 had. awesome engine, though!

135i daily driver: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/attachment....mp;d=1232383908 e46 m3 racetrack whore: http://public.fotki.com/fourtailpipes/m3_track_interior/ b5 s4 (sold): http://public.fotki.com/fourtailpipes/s4_sold/

he says heavier than XXXX? is that also BS? everything else i've read has said that it's much lighter...

get a box of the tee nuts, and order STAINLESS screws in several lengths. i've needed screws in lengths from 1/4" to 5/8" depending on the thickness of the outsole (the 5/8" were for the heel of the roller conversion, where i used a 6mm heel lift). 3/8" has been by far my most commonly used screw length. also, dont forget to use loctite threadlocker (mcmaster carries small disposable tubes for cheap).

i like the non-power LS2's a lot better, and now people keep asking me how i like my one95's when they see them.

i marked the position of the "seam" on the front and back of the original holders (if you look at the toe of the runner, and follow up the front of the holder, there's a seam in the plastic that you can follow straight to the boot). mark its location front and back to get the line that the runner was on. do this for both left and right boots, then put the boots against eachother (sole to sole), and mark off the midpoint between the left toe and the right toe marks you made based on the mounting of the original holders... this gives you the average toe and heel positions from the original holders. use the same seam on the new holders to determine the lateral/angular position, then adjust fore/aft to have the same amount of space in front of the toe as behnd the heel (or adjust fore/aft to your liking).

i did the tacks this afternoon (snowday). i used 8-32 screws and tee nuts from mcmaster. it was an easy job, since practically none of the holes line up,or are even close, so i was drilling through clean outsole (as opposed to loose-fitting in overlapping holes). also disabled the lacelocks (hate those things). they feel great, and i think i got the mounting placement/alignment perfect, so i can't wait to skate on them.

my custom mountings... 1. NBH Vapor XXV ice boot with mission vanguard roller chassis, (custom heel lift to match tuuk LS2 pitch) 2. NBH One90 boot with standard tuuk LS2 holder 3. CCM 892 Tacks boot (weird limited production) with tuuk LS2 holder

09 BMW 135i - Daily Driver 04 BMW E46 M3 Track Car 09 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Racetrack Tow Vehicle and Road Trips

$60: new holders, runners, insoles, laces, and sharpening for my one90's... (plus a thorough cleaning)

just eyeballing, it looks like the chassis is mounted at least ~5mm further forward on the left boot than the right. nice looking conversion though... i just did the same conversion with size 9 boots and the same medium chassis.

the LIGHTEST i've ever felt was my montreal 9988... much lighter than any of the sherwoods i've ever used (and i think i've used them all). that thing is insanely light... i'll have to weigh it sometime to see exactly what it weighs, but it feels like a composite. i have a really old christian stick that has to be 1000g.

1. Most sticks are sold to people who cut them down 2. Longer stick means more material used in production i never cut a stick, cause they're universally too short. more material. yes, but lets say changing from 60 to 63" is only a 5% increase in length, which should equate to a less than 5% increase in cost. i'd pay ~5% more to always have the right length stick. i guess i'm in the minority here. i'm not even THAT tall... about 6'0, but on skates, a 60" stick comes up to my mouth. when i play devense, my montreal stick is the perfect length... about 61", almost to my nose.

i never understood why they dont just make every stick 63" long, and let you cut it to length/flex. my new bauer sticks say they're 60", but then seem about an inch short for me. most of the others i was looking at were even shorter. why wont they cater to tall people or defensemen? (or tall defensemen, like myself)

the rbk ones are pretty much the same, but i use the big white ones for defense.

Skates: CCM 892 & Black T-Blades Sticks: NBH Vapor XVI, 87 flex, PM9, friction tape Helmet: CCM 892 w/ Jofa Cage Gloves: TPS R8 full leather Pants: CCM Pro Girdle/Shell Shins: RBK 3K, Jofa design Elbows: Jofas, circa 1995 Shoulders: NBH Supreme 10, shoulder caps removed Jock: Itech, the yellow one everyone has