Buzz_LightBeer
-
Content Count
3173 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
135 -
Feedback
100%
Posts posted by Buzz_LightBeer
-
-
Yes, but not so easy to come by. HCR is True
-
They had two stick lines at the time, the RS was the true low kick elliptical shaft stick, and I would take issue with them calling the Mako a low kick comparatively.
based on weight and shaft shape, I’d personally avoid the Ultra Sonic, Sling, Geo or Hyperlite. Find a 2S or 2N or similar and in my opinion you’d find a stick more similar to the original Mako
outside of Bauer, the A5.2 from True might be something you’d like as well
-
1
-
-
If I’m remembering right the OG mako was still a fused stick so in that regard no current Bauer’s would be like it.
but it was a mid-high kick so I’d probably try a Supreme, 2S/3S or similar. I’d avoid top end Bauer’s, go with the second tier stick currently.-
2
-
-
Keep an eye out for any "team" variety sticks too, they were usually readily available it those
-
1
-
-
If you're reasonably mechanical, you could look for a mangled old pair of MLX or something and repurpose the bolt/nut setup. Ive done it to my skates for over a decade without issue
-
Any shop that can do rivets should be able to handle that
-
1
-
1
-
-
Deron Quint on line 1…
-
1
-
-
For the one time fluke fall as you’ve described, I’d say any helmet in decent shape should suffice as long as the fit is correct.
mid you want a modern upgrade I’d check out the Tacks 210 and 310 -
That, and they used to be compared to Custom + and ProLite 3, which is where I think that Graf idea came from
-
who is brave enough to jump out on beer league ice in $100 “high-quality” skates? 🥴
-
2
-
1
-
-
41 minutes ago, Griff said:I'm still not exactly sure what was going on.
Didn't matter if I'd already gotten a hollow in it and the factory coating was gone, just fucking ate them.Some of the newer CCM youth skates come pre sharpened, that may be the difference you were noticing.
what’s going on is your wheel was getting gummed up by the factory coating, regardless of whether you’d “gotten a hollow” or not. Either cross grind them or use the 1.5” hollow method and your headaches will go away.
Ruby or blue wheels seem to be the most popular for this application. No sense buying too end wheels for what you’re doing on rental skates
-
Apologies, I read it as Custom Fit system. Are you able to try them on in person?
im sure there was some change as CCM transitioned to the new boots, Pures website has a pretty comprehensive comparison chart I’d be inclined to trust it’s accuracy
-
1
-
-
If it was cheap/old/rusty/dull steel my advice would’ve been to first do each pair on as shallow of a hollow as your dresser will do, 1.5” or so will work. Then once the working edge is clean I’d circle back and do them at whatever hollow you would finish them at. Should save you a ton of headaches and wasted wheel in the future.
if they’re super rusty, a dab of thread cutting oil on the rust should loosen it up a bit before putting them on the wheel.
might not be the worst idea to keep a more aggressive grit wheel on hand as well
-Edit, I just reread that they were new, definitely take off the factory edge as I stated and put the working hollow on in a second go around-
-
1
-
-
I went through the process fully expecting to be in an EE but ended up in FT4 D. Couldn’t be happier with what I got.
-
If all you want is a repalm, HockeyMenders does a great job and doesn't take too long
-
1
-
-
I may be misremembering but about that time, near the Bauer buyout, I think they took all Mexican production and moved it to China. Guys deeper in the industry may be able to confirm or deny that
-
1
-
-
Depending how thick you're trying to go you can easily fashion some yourself out of scrap plastic. If they're to be used long term maybe find someone who knows 3D printing, and see if that process could handle the stress of skating on
-
Easton price pointed sticks were made in various places. I'm sure Vietnam was one of them. Top of the line were made in Mexico until at least the CX iirc
-
1
-
-
FallFest weekend pickups
14” Ferland/Combat 52 Cal Bruins mitts
13” HoneyBaked Bauer pro team gloves
Brand new Large Franchise elbows
like new Medium HT2
Eagle player bag
UltraSonic retail Size 9 Fit 3 new
-
3
-
-
As long as you’re not standing on them while they’re hot, I don’t see the harm
-
A vapor pro team might be closer to what you’re after. There are plenty floating around
-
Secret of the pros-
put a hand warmer or two inside your cup in the pocket.
I usually wear under armour tights, shins over, with sweats or waterproof pants depending how cold it is. A UA mock turtle neck, plus a sweatshirt and jersey. layers are key. A fairer isn’t a bad idea either.
plan on bringing something warm for after/between games. I prefer Duluth fleece carhartt style pants
if you’re coming from Cali, my best advice to you is; however cold you think Minneapolis will be in January, it’ll be much colder than that
-
3
-
-
5 hours ago, Leif said:.Has anyone ever taken a traditional runner, and milled away a significant portion of the metal? I imagine a lattice structure would preserve a lot of the mechanical properties whilst reducing weight. Perhaps it is too hard to do economically, as stainless steel is not an easy material to machine, especially the hard kind used in runners.
Bauer has tried it on a few variations of Vapors, the 8/10 series and the XX come to mind. Maybe there’s a proper balance but it seemed the lost durability in the runner outweighed (no pun) any benefits from reduced weight.
-
2021 Stick Equivilent
in Ice Hockey Equipment
Posted · Report reply
True is offering P90T at retail next year, in one model