Skate Holder

[Riggo 0]

What skate holder is the easiest to change the blade on the fly? On a related note, is ther anyone that has their sharpening done through the mail by mailing the blades out? I'm looking for someone that can keep an 11" radius with a slightly forward pitch (1 degree) and believe going through the mail may be my best option.

Is there anyone else that does this or am I just crazy? Obviously, I'm looking for a holder that is easy to change ande won't break down with the constant changing of blades.

[JR Boucicaut 3804]

They all are pretty easy - obviously the one with external bolts (CCM, Mission, Easton) are faster to do. I have a few people sending me LS2 steel and find it easy with the new screw setup.

Either me or jimmy can do that for you - we both do mail-order sharpenings.

[biff44 0]

I just changed my 1st set of Vapor XXX runners. I was fairly easy, but I do not think I would want to do it every week. It is a little hard to get the nut started (hidden in a deep well), and I assume you could cross thread it if you are not careful. I guess if you had spare screws and nuts, you would be ok.

BTW, are any of you guys noticing a lot of rusted pitting in the LS2 runners? The old runner cracked right at one of those pitted areas, and the new LS runners are rusting up the same way--little 0.020" diameter rust spots. It seems like the steel is not of uniform composition, but has some non-stainless steel bits mixed into the runners.

[Chadd 916]

I don't particularly like them but Cobras are the easiest to change the steel. As JR said, Mission, CCM and Easton are pretty easy as well.

[cobrAA 0]

can anyone told me how ot change the blade on my LS holder..t blade aresuper easy lol...prolite3 i get it...but i can't see how you change blade on LS holder..

thank

[forbs02 20]

Pull out the foot bed, pull out the little white cap in the heel, and remove the nut. If its a LS 1 you need to use an allen wrench and if its a LS2 you use a 5/16" driver. The hardest part is rethreading the nut back on.

[Chadd 916]

can anyone told me how ot change the blade on my LS holder..t blade aresuper easy lol...prolite3 i get it...but i can't see how you change blade on LS holder..

thank

I can swap out Mission, LS2, Graf, CCM or Easton faster than t'blades, Custom+ does take longer.

[cobrAA 0]

Pull out the foot bed, pull out the little white cap in the heel, and remove the nut. If its a LS 1 you need to use an allen wrench and if its a LS2 you use a 5/16" driver. The hardest part is rethreading the nut back on.

oh nice i see thanks...so their only one nut??

And by the way...do each skate have this white cap?? because i have lightspeed on ccm...but i know my flexlite does have this white cap ..just wondering

[forbs02 20]

If you have a lightspeed mounted on your ccm's you might have to get a hole drilled through the outsole to get into the tuuk. Check though, they might have done it for you when they mounted you skate.

[jimmy 194]

can anyone told me how ot change the blade on my LS holder..t blade aresuper easy lol...prolite3 i get it...but i can't see how you change blade on LS holder..

thank

tip - get some hot glue and anchor the allen nut or the LS2 8mm nut to the wrench/socket. This way it won't fall off the wrench while you are trying to line it up. Plus you can go strait down instead of trying to hold the skate upside down.

About the only holder that is hard is the regular tuuk, the front screw is a bitch. I have literally spent 30 minutes struggling with one of them. Now I just get a big drill bit and enlarge the access hole.

[Chadd 916]

can anyone told me how ot change the blade on my LS holder..t blade aresuper easy lol...prolite3 i get it...but i can't see how you change blade on LS holder..

thank

tip - get some hot glue and anchor the allen nut or the LS2 8mm nut to the wrench/socket. This way it won't fall off the wrench while you are trying to line it up. Plus you can go strait down instead of trying to hold the skate upside down.

About the only holder that is hard is the regular tuuk, the front screw is a bitch. I have literally spent 30 minutes struggling with one of them. Now I just get a big drill bit and enlarge the access hole.

I put a small tab of paper in the driver before putting the nut in. The paper makes it snug and it works very well for me. The front can be a real bitch if the hole is originally drilled incorrectly.

[sogaduch 0]

BTW, are any of you guys noticing a lot of rusted pitting in the LS2 runners? The old runner cracked right at one of those pitted areas, and the new LS runners are rusting up the same way--little 0.020" diameter rust spots. It seems like the steel is not of uniform composition, but has some non-stainless steel bits mixed into the runners.

this may be where your storing your skates and also if you keep your skate guards on then the moisture will still remain on your skates and causes the pitting and rust. Also yes your true all stainless still blades have bits of carbon in them, this makes it easier for them to be sharpened since it would take a much harder wheel to sharpen a true stainless steel runner as easily. I hope this helps

[biff44 0]

This is not so good though! In a metalurgical (geek) sense, if the steel is not of uniform composition, then the constant flexing of the runner while skating will cause microcracks at the grain boundaries due to work-hardening. Or in other words, the blade will crack in-half much sooner than it should!

[jimmy 194]

I put a small tab of paper in the driver before putting the nut in. The paper makes it snug and it works very well for me. The front can be a real bitch if the hole is originally drilled incorrectly.

Which is off on about 80% of them. I like that paper idea, may try it next time.

[jimmy 194]

This is not so good though! In a metalurgical (geek) sense, if the steel is not of uniform composition, then the constant flexing of the runner while skating will cause microcracks at the grain boundaries due to work-hardening. Or in other words, the blade will crack in-half much sooner than it should!

Absolutely. Tempering process also has a lot to do with breakage as well. Some manufacturers steel is better than others.