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Norm

Radius and hollow

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Sooner or later you're going to see a little plastic ground away once the blade gets down to a certain level in order to maintain the rocker.

LOL...not if the sharpener knows what he is doing you won't.

It will happen a little at the toe once the steel has been ground to a certain level. As someone who gets every last bit of life out of the steel on their skates before replacing it, it happens. And this is by guys who have done skates for D1 programs, assorted pros (specifically requested by Coffey in his mini-stint with the B's), and Olympians at the Nagano games.

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Sooner or later you're going to see a little plastic ground away once the blade gets down to a certain level in order to maintain the rocker.

LOL...not if the sharpener knows what he is doing you won't.

It will happen a little at the toe once the steel has been ground to a certain level. As someone who gets every last bit of life out of the steel on their skates before replacing it, it happens. And this is by guys who have done skates for D1 programs, assorted pros (specifically requested by Coffey in his mini-stint with the B's), and Olympians at the Nagano games.

just because they do skates at D1 level programs doesnt mean there good sharpeners. Ive seen plenty of bad skates that are done my NHL trainers and im just curious how the pro's can skate on such bad sharpenings.

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Just saying, when you're near the end of a blade's life there will be some grazing of the plastic at the toe.

And why would a guy specifically requested by Coffey know how to take care of skates?

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One time Peter Zezel (ex-Maple Leaf) came in for a skate sharpening.

I looked at his blades and the sharpening was very substandard. The finish was

not smooth, and the edges were not even level. I will not mention who did them, but

PZ said he didn't notice they were particular bad. Either he is not picky, or the

quality of the "pro" sharpenings are not necessarily the greatest.

Anyhow, back on topic...

I've always wanted to fully learn the whole manual contouring system, but they phased it out right when I started working in our pro shop. I'm a very experienced sharpener, but have never had a chance to do any manual radiusing---I've only used the Cag One machine. The machine is good, but I find it very limiting. Also, how do the Cag One numbers correspond to the traditional radiusing numbers?

Does anyone have guides or more information on the equipment, technical manuals etc.

I can't find that info online anywhere, and they dont have any books lying around on that kind of stuff.

Further info and discussion on this, especially from the pro shop/tech guys is appreciated.

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Just saying, when you're near the end of a blade's life there will be some grazing of the plastic at the toe.

And why would a guy specifically requested by Coffey know how to take care of skates?

Absolutely not! A good sharpener will NEVER grind plastic. He will inform customer that blade is getting low, well before it gets to the point of needing replacement. A good sharpener will do few passes on the toe to preserve blade life.

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Sooner or later you're going to see a little plastic ground away once the blade gets down to a certain level in order to maintain the rocker.

LOL...not if the sharpener knows what he is doing you won't.

It will happen a little at the toe once the steel has been ground to a certain level. As someone who gets every last bit of life out of the steel on their skates before replacing it, it happens. And this is by guys who have done skates for D1 programs, assorted pros (specifically requested by Coffey in his mini-stint with the B's), and Olympians at the Nagano games.

Not if you leave the tips square. If you round them off, you will wear the heel and toe prematurely - but if you keep them square, the blade will wear evenly.

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heres a conversion sheet

Cag one Radius Lean

20/35 7 1/64

25/35 7 1/32

30/35 7 1/16

20/40 9 neut

25/40 9 1/64

30/40 9 1/32

35/40 9 1/16

25/45 10 neut

30/45 10 1/64

35/45 10 1/32

40/45 10 1/16

25/50 11 neut

35/50 11 1/64

30/50 11 1/32

40/50 11 1/16

30/55 12 neut

35/55 12 1/64

40/55 12 1/32

45/55 12 1/16

30/60 13 neut

35/60 13 1/128

40/60 13 1/64

45/60 13 1/32

50/60 13 1/16

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