Newbie Question: OPS vs Shaft/Blade combo?

[bwear 0]

I searched for this topic, but came up empty.

Can someone tell me why one would go with an OPS instead of a Shaft/Blade Combo? I see and hear about a lot of broken sticks where the person ends up cutting the stick down and inserting a new blade anyway. So, what is the benefit of an OPS?

I'm a newbie, so I'm completely clueless about this.

Thanks in advance for any info!!

[Cheesehead 0]

lighter, lower kickpoint

[bwear 0]

Lower kickpoint than a low kickpoint, i.e., sythesis, shaft?

[golfpuck 0]

compared to a synthesis type setup, the kick point is the same

however, all 2 piece systems have a certain amount of "give" or "loose" feeling where you insert the blade in to the stick.

on ops, they are permanently glued in, and dont have that "give"

[Cheesehead 0]

lower than standard shaft and blade setup

[bwear 0]

So, does the OPS just feel and shoot better?

The only OPS I've used is a cheapass stiff wooden Nike, so I have no clue.

[kovalchuk71 212]

So, does the OPS just feel and shoot better?

The only OPS I've used is a cheapass stiff wooden Nike, so I have no clue.

thats not an ops. An OPS is a stick made of composite not wood

[bwear 0]

I thought OPS just meant One-Piece Stick?

I guess that means I've never used an OPS...

[mrusse01 0]

Just about everyone I've heard of finds they can shoot harder with a OPS such as a Synergy or a TPS, goalies often say the shot comes off the blade quicker. On the other hand many people find there to be less 'feel' in a OPS and complain of not being able to take passes as well or stickhandle, and the puck bounces on the blade a bit more. Obviously a OPS can run you up towards $200 and beyond while a wood stick is much cheaper, but a OPS will generally last longer than a wood stick or a wooden blade and gives you a little edge in performance I think.

I personally have used a OPS for about 3 years now and whenever I try to go back to wood it feels like a can't play at all with it, and if I try a shaft/blade combo stick I have trouble shooting as hard as with a OPS.

[hockeyherb 1]

This is my first year trying an OPS after using wood sticks the rest of my life.

My shot is WAY better now with an OPS (Vapor XXX Lite but also tried a Vapor VI and both were good). Much more velocity on my slapshots which is what I was looking for.

[Chadd 916]

I thought OPS just meant One-Piece Stick?

I guess that means I've never used an OPS...

Wood sticks are usually made up of several different pieces.

As for shot performance I find most OPS add some velocity to wristers and snappers but really don't do much for slappers. For me OPS, or my preference; tapered combos, are much more economical than wood sticks.

[iron Ghost 0]

OPS are not good economically speaking. Once it breaks your stick is basically shot. You could off coure cutt it off or flip it and put a blade in but then you have sacrificed all of the extra "performance" that you paid for. IMO a tapered shaft and short hosel blade perform equally as good as a OPS. They also give you the option to change your curve or change between wood and composite. Being a newbie Im assuming that you havent decided on one curve so I would recommend a shaft/blade combo.

[Chadd 916]

OPS are not good economically speaking. Once it breaks your stick is basically shot. You could off coure cutt it off or flip it and put a blade in but then you have sacrificed all of the extra "performance" that you paid for. IMO a tapered shaft and short hosel blade perform equally as good as a OPS. They also give you the option to change your curve or change between wood and composite. Being a newbie Im assuming that you havent decided on one curve so I would recommend a shaft/blade combo.

When I last used wood sticks, I broke an average of 2 a week. The Easton z-carbon 95s that used were $25 a pop. An OPS generally lasts me a couple months at a minimum.

$50 a week = $200 a month and I don't spend nearly that much on OPS or tapered combos.

[mrusse01 0]

A tapered combo can approach the price of a OPS. A good shaft is easily going to cost $150 up here, and while I've found the price of composite blades to have come down a bit, you can still spend well over $50.

I haven't tried a real top end tapered combo though so I can't comment on how they perform in comparison to a OPS, I hope to try it this summer in my roller hockey league.

And two broken wood sticks a week :o you must be pretty tough on them and/or playing a hell of a lot of hockey

[Chadd 916]

A tapered combo can approach the price of a OPS. A good shaft is easily going to cost $150 up here, and while I've found the price of composite blades to have come down a bit, you can still spend well over $50.

I haven't tried a real top end tapered combo though so I can't comment on how they perform in comparison to a OPS, I hope to try it this summer in my roller hockey league.

And two broken wood sticks a week :o you must be pretty tough on them and/or playing a hell of a lot of hockey

I was on the ice playing or coaching three times a week. I worked with the goalies a lot so I spent a lot of time shooting at practices. I primarily use an R2XN10 shaft a p31 R2 blade. The shafts are $129-$149 US and mine are both over a year old. The blades are $39-$49 and I have two that have held up since November or so.

[bwear 0]

OPS are not good economically speaking. Once it breaks your stick is basically shot. You could off coure cutt it off or flip it and put a blade in but then you have sacrificed all of the extra "performance" that you paid for. IMO a tapered shaft and short hosel blade perform equally as good as a OPS. They also give you the option to change your curve or change between wood and composite. Being a newbie Im assuming that you havent decided on one curve so I would recommend a shaft/blade combo.

That's exactly what I was thinking when I decided to go with the shaft/blade combo. I bought a shaft and a few different fairly cheap blades to try out... am having the best luck lifting wristers and backhands with a P66 Lemieux curve.

Thanks for the info!

[hockeypunk3 0]

Chadd:

Have you gotten the R2 Armor in yet?

If you have how would you compare it to the R2 xn10 in performance?

[stickfixchaska 0]

OPS are not good economically speaking. Once it breaks your stick is basically shot. You could off coure cutt it off or flip it and put a blade in but then you have sacrificed all of the extra "performance" that you paid for. IMO a tapered shaft and short hosel blade perform equally as good as a OPS. They also give you the option to change your curve or change between wood and composite. Being a newbie Im assuming that you havent decided on one curve so I would recommend a shaft/blade combo.

I agree with most of what Iron Ghost had to say...

A highend OPS is is generally for players that are sure of what they use and want the high end performance of composite sticks.

If your intent is to cut off the blade and/or flip the shaft, once the OPS breaks, you are basically wasting your money. Buy a shaft and blade combo, it will be cheaper.

The one thing that IG had wrong is that "they are shot after they break". There are several different services available that can repair composite shafts...SRS & Stick Wizard fix broken shafts. Stick Fix can repair any fracture to any portion of a composite stick.

I own a Stick Fix franchise, so I will not go on and turn my response into an Ad.

[bwear 0]

The one thing that IG had wrong is that "they are shot after they break".  There are several different services available that can repair composite shafts...SRS & Stick Wizard fix broken shafts.  Stick Fix can repair any fracture to any portion of a composite stick.

I own a Stick Fix franchise, so I will not go on and turn my response into an Ad.

Good to know!

Anyone besides stickfixchaska have any experience with these types of repair services? I imagine any fracture repair would still be the weak point of the stick. And how does a repair affect the flex? Anyone?

Stickfixchaska, just wondering, how much do these types of repairs cost?

Thanks for the info.

[bwear 0]

Another quick question... there is another thread about removing the blades from OPS's... how are these OPS's any different from a shaft/blade combo if you can essentially separate them in the same way?

[stickfixchaska 0]

Another quick question... there is another thread about removing the blades from OPS's... how are these OPS's any different from a shaft/blade combo if you can essentially separate them in the same way?

There are only a few "true" OPS on the market. I don't know the exact number and would not want to speculate. However, the majority of the OPS sticks are fused blade and shaft combos.

I PM'd you with my info.

[donkey87 0]

The one thing that IG had wrong is that "they are shot after they break".  There are several different services available that can repair composite shafts...SRS & Stick Wizard fix broken shafts.  Stick Fix can repair any fracture to any portion of a composite stick.

I own a Stick Fix franchise, so I will not go on and turn my response into an Ad.

Good to know!

Anyone besides stickfixchaska have any experience with these types of repair services? I imagine any fracture repair would still be the weak point of the stick. And how does a repair affect the flex? Anyone?

Stickfixchaska, just wondering, how much do these types of repairs cost?

Thanks for the info.

I used SRS to repair an XN10 that I had. It didn't change the flex and I couldn't feel the change in weight. For $25 it was a great deal.

[bwear 0]

I used SRS to repair an XN10 that I had. It didn't change the flex and I couldn't feel the change in weight. For $25 it was a great deal.

$25 is definitely worth it!! I can't see paying $75 for it, though. I also don't buy $150 sticks, either.

[kovalchuk71 212]

You can always chisel the tennon yout of your OPS and there you go: A perfect tapered shaft.