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tguidon

Where should I cut my SL?

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I saw one thread saying to cut on the "D" of the "Patent Pending", but I don't see that on this stick. Where is an ideal place to cut it and also would a tapered blade fit in there?

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In the past it worked with 2 of my old Synegry grips (yellow ones) and a buddy's SL. It should work, as long as you load it up with glue, don't cut it too tall and add a piece of tape to secure the fit. good luck and make sure it is a clean ACCURATE cut.

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Just lay the tapered blade you are going to put in it on the existing blade and cut where the bottom of the hosel is. You will have to chisel out whats left and pull it out with a needle nose pliers. Voila', a new tapered shaft. You won't lose any length if you do it this way. I've done about a zillion of these and it works like a charm. Just don't get any slivers from the composite material.

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Just lay the tapered blade you are going to put in it on the existing blade and cut where the bottom of the hosel is. You will have to chisel out whats left and pull it out with a needle nose pliers. Voila', a new tapered shaft. You won't lose any length if you do it this way. I've done about a zillion of these and it works like a charm. Just don't get any slivers from the composite material.

Would that work the same with an Adrenaline?

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Just lay the tapered blade you are going to put in it on the existing blade and cut where the bottom of the hosel is. You will have to chisel out whats left and pull it out with a needle nose pliers. Voila', a new tapered shaft. You won't lose any length if you do it this way. I've done about a zillion of these and it works like a charm. Just don't get any slivers from the composite material.

Would that work the same with an Adrenaline?

the ops from tps can be heated up and the blade removed. there have been other threads about this. i heated up an intrigue and remove the blade w/out loss of shaft lenght. heat the shaft up moving hte heat source until you see the paint crack and then focus hte heat there and hte blde will be albe to come out after it get hot enough.

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Just lay the tapered blade you are going to put in it on the existing blade and cut where the bottom of the hosel is. You will have to chisel out whats left and pull it out with a needle nose pliers. Voila', a new tapered shaft. You won't lose any length if you do it this way. I've done about a zillion of these and it works like a charm. Just don't get any slivers from the composite material.

I just cut a SL. It's not as easy as you say. You do lose shaft length because the tapered shaft won't fit unless it's cut where the original blade was inserted. If it's cut any lower, to try to save some shaft length, it's going to be very difficult to insert the new tapered blade. The shaft has hard and soft foam in it, removing the foam is easy, it's the very hard piece of graphite on the inside that runs across the shaft that's hard to remove. It's part of the original blade and forms a figure 8 inside the shaft. You must chisel this out or try to file it away before the new blade can be inserted. Good Luck

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You don't lose any length if you cut it at the fuse point, as forbs suggested, and then chisel out the original blade tenon.

I cut my prostock L-2 today (essentially a resprayed M-1) and got fed up with chiseling the tenon, so I just cut up 3"from the fuse point and voila. New shaft. The blade did need a little bit of extra glue to stay in there, but it should hold up. I'm going to try it tomorrow night. Unfortunately, I've only got a crap Ion Radiant blade. blech. If it stays in place without shaking loose I'll spring for something better.

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