I have the perfect lie, but not dying about

[Allsmokenopancake 0]

OK, so I have been trying a couple of different curves recently, either with cheap woodies or the shaft/blade combo.

Thing is though, the very first stick I ever bought, seems to have the perfect lie for me. Its an old Koho wood stick, Jagr curve, and its 60 inches long.

Almost the entire blade is on the ice when skating, and the tape wears perfectly evenly from top to bottom.

The only problem is, I am not gone on the curve. Its ok, but I have some real issues getting the puck up as quickly as I like off the ice. The Bauer Gagne curve makes a big difference, but the lie is wrong, and the tape wears at the heel, and sometimes the puck will slide right under the toe when I am stretching for a pass.

My question is this. If I start to shave down a wood blade at the heel, or the toe to get a better lie, or if I take an inch or two off the length (although for the gagne stick, I would probably need to add a bit on, as its the heel wearing, not the toe), will it affect the curve.

So, if it was easy to get the puck up with it, then I shave something off it, the face will be a bit smaller and will that affect how easy it is to get the puck up.

Anyone got any suggestions?

I also like the easton modano/forsburg curve, but again, it's wearing at the heel, so for all intents and purposes, the jagr curve has the lie, but not the curve I want, so I want to fix it

Sorry about the long, vague and repetitive post, but would rather over explain than not give enough info.

As always, cheers in advance

[Hooah4 12]

I hate to say it but maybe customs are for you. Maybe a Gagne clone w/a lower lie?

I'd shave the Gagne down a bit and experiment until you have it where you want it. Tape it up, try it out and then use that as the custom pattern.

[Allsmokenopancake 0]

I hate to say it but maybe customs are for you. Maybe a Gagne clone w/a lower lie?

I'd shave the Gagne down a bit and experiment until you have it where you want it. Tape it up, try it out and then use that as the custom pattern.

Customs are definately not for me.

I suck too much to even think about that sort of cash

[Chadd 916]

Gagne P106 or the old P10?

[Allsmokenopancake 0]

Gagne P106 or the old P10?

It's the old P10

[Ogie 0]

Here is what I suggest: find that lie from Christian Hockey (www.harrowsports.com) and order some of their wood blades. Then take a torch and heat it up, and bend it under a door. Works great.

[Chadd 916]

Here is what I suggest: find that lie from Christian Hockey (www.harrowsports.com) and order some of their wood blades. Then take a torch and heat it up, and bend it under a door. Works great.

The Christian/Harrow Recchi copy is very similar to the P10 but a 5.5 lie. I don't htink they have a real 6 lie in anything close to that curve.

[sabre09923 0]

That's weird that the forsberg/modo is wearing at the heel, as it's a five lie, so that means you need something under that. Maybe try a Warrior Fedorov since it's a 4.5 lie? Then again, Warrior's aren't available in wood, and it sounds like wood is what you need.

The other options are to (obviously) either adjust to the Jagr curve or adjust to the P10's lie.

[TBLfan 25]

warrior's lies are off, so it won't be a true 4.5

Best thing you could do for yourself, in my opinion, I would suggest that you shorten your stick.

[sabre09923 0]

It says it's a 4 in their catalogue, but our pattern DB is where I got the 4.5.

[TBLfan 25]

oh ok, gotcha. Then nevermind the first part of my previous post.

[Andoy 5]

So if you have a high lie(6) stick but normally use a stick with a lower lie(5.5), you shorten the stick?

[Hoquyguy 0]

Hey, I'm a vertically challenged defenseman, so I tend to use a longer stick than normal. To compensate, I use blades with a low lie. For those how don't know, a low lie means the angle between the stick and the blade is GREATER, so the blade is flat farther from you body. A high lie means the blade is flat with the puck at your feet. There are actually hockey sites that have this concept wrong! Anyway, I'm constantly looking for the perfect blade with about the same attributes you're looking for. I'm currently using a Franklin Guerin curve, but those are no longer made (and I bought up all I can find). The lowest lie is the Warrior Federov blade (it really is about a 4.5), but it doesn't have much of a curve. My advice is to shell out a little more for the Easton ST Heatley blade. It has a flatter bottom (small rocker), low lie, and nice open faced mid curve. You can find them for a little over 30 bucks.

BTW, I've looked at the Jagr curves and I really don't see how you've liked it. It has a decent curve and open face, but a mean rocker (meaning the bottom is rounded not flat). The lie is 5.5 to 6 depending on where you are on the rocker.

You also need to remember that the wooden blades don't always match the attributes of the composite blades. It's easy to make every composite the same. But a lot of the wooden blades, especially Easton, don't really match up to the pattern charts. They are sometimes (not always) a little shorter and higher lie than what the composite blades are. Just my observation.

[chippa13 1844]

Most times if you have to stretch for a pass the puck can get under the toe of your blade.

[DamnLocust 0]

If you do shave down the blade, try using epoxy or fiberglass patch to seal up the bottom, or it won't last more than 2 or 3 skates. once water gets in there, it's pretty much done.

[Roach 0]

Hey, I'm a vertically challenged defenseman, so I tend to use a longer stick than normal. To compensate, I use blades with a low lie. For those how don't know, a low lie means the angle between the stick and the blade is GREATER, so the blade is flat farther from you body. A high lie means the blade is flat with the puck at your feet. There are actually hockey sites that have this concept wrong! Anyway, I'm constantly looking for the perfect blade with about the same attributes you're looking for. I'm currently using a Franklin Guerin curve, but those are no longer made (and I bought up all I can find). The lowest lie is the Warrior Federov blade (it really is about a 4.5), but it doesn't have much of a curve. My advice is to shell out a little more for the Easton ST Heatley blade. It has a flatter bottom (small rocker), low lie, and nice open faced mid curve. You can find them for a little over 30 bucks.

Just a warning on the Easton ST Heatley blade - the curve and lie work for me, the blade length does not. It is a very SHORT blade.