Blade fuse point on XN10

[tml67 0]

I'm trying to find the blade fuse point on an XN10 I purchased over eBay. The blade has been cut off already (not by me). It was originally a retail OPS.

There are two possible point I think where it might be, but not with 100% certainty. There is one spot which is 2" below the letter "S" and another noticeable point 4" below the "S".

Can someone tell me how long the shaft is after pulling out the blade? So I'll know which area to point the heat gun.

Thanks.

[DEATHTRON 19]

It will be the lower spot, you will feel the fuse point and then the end of the tenon...though....its already cut, so there is a high possibility that they cut the fuse point off.....

Zach

[tml67 0]

It will be the lower spot, you will feel the fuse point and then the end of the tenon...though....its already cut, so there is a high possibility that they cut the fuse point off.....

Zach

I'm certain the fuse point hasn't be cut off yet. I have been heating up the lower part of the shaft and tried pulling it off to no avail. Since the blade has been cut, I don't have much to grip onto.

Do you have an xn10 shaft with the blade pulled? I want to know the length of the shaft after the blade has been pulled so I know the exact point where the blade is fused.

[DangleSpud 0]

I finely got mine out, and let me tell you, it was a pain! I heated for a long while and put the blade end in a vise and then a friend and I pulled, and "POP" it came out. Being that the blade is cut off of your, and assuming the cut wasn't above the fuse point, I suggest screwing a large fat threaded screw into the blade end and, leaving some of the screw exposed, put that in a vise and heat for a while. Yank away

[DEATHTRON 19]

I finely got mine out, and let me tell you, it was a pain! I heated for a long while and put the blade end in a vise and then a friend and I pulled, and "POP" it came out. Being that the blade is cut off of your, and assuming the cut wasn't above the fuse point, I suggest screwing a large fat threaded screw into the blade end and, leaving some of the screw exposed, put that in a vise and heat for a while. Yank away

Heating is key...read heating, no overheating. Also, I found it helped that I sanded down around the fuse point to get some paint off. I cant do you much help with the measurments, my xn10's were pro stock, and my graphics/paint were way different from yours.

Zach

[tml67 0]

I finely got mine out, and let me tell you, it was a pain! I heated for a long while and put the blade end in a vise and then a friend and I pulled, and "POP" it came out. Being that the blade is cut off of your, and assuming the cut wasn't above the fuse point, I suggest screwing a large fat threaded screw into the blade end and, leaving some of the screw exposed, put that in a vise and heat for a while. Yank away

I only have about 1" of grip left on the blade end, so putting in a screw in there will be a good idea...thanks.

Dangle, how long is your shaft after pulling out the blade? I'm still trying to determine the exact fuse point.

Thanks Zach for your input.

[DangleSpud 0]

I would give you the length, but I'm out of town 'till sunday. My shaft is uncut, so the length should be about right. I must tell you though, resist the temptation to proceed untill you find the "fuse" point. It really isn't a fuse as much as it is an epoxied in blade. The heating, not overheating, is important because it will expand the shaft and allow you to remove the blade. The seem is just the same as any of your 2 piece sticks, just a nicer finish. If you follow Deathtrons advice about lightly sanding the shaft, and I do mean light, the junction will be very aparent. Good luck and be patient. You don't want to ruin the shaft. It's the same as a xn10 r2, so it's worth around $110...

[tml67 0]

Thanks for the tip Dangle.

I don't want to ruin the shaft, that's why I want to find the exact fusion point. I'll try sanding it tonight to see if I can find the point.

I'm not in any rush to do this. When you get a chance on Sunday, can you please post the length of the shaft? Unless someone else can post the info. :)

[hockeypunk3 0]

Take a pic.

I just did what you're about to do to a Response Plus.

It worked like a charm. Fits tapered blades all i did was heat er up nice and warm and tug.

[notquitedeadyet 13]

If you want to be sure, just remove the end plug, stick something long inside the shaft, & where it stops is the top of the tenon.

[tml67 0]

If you want to be sure, just remove the end plug, stick something long inside the shaft, & where it stops is the top of the tenon.

You, my friend, are a genius!!!

I did just that. I put a measuring tape from the open end and it stopped at 47". The tenon is typically 3" in length, so the shaft be approximately 50" in length after removing the blade.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to give it a go tomorrow.

[hockeypunk3 0]

Good luck man.

Hope it works out for you.

[tml67 0]

I finally found the seem, but for the life of me I can't pull it out. I heat, pull, heat, pull, but to no avail. I used a heat gun and run it up & down about 3" from the fuse point, while rolling the shaft around for a good 10 minutes. No luck...it wouldn't budge.

I'm going to calm down and give it another go at it. If no go, I'm just going to cut it off and use a standard blade.

[kovalchuk71 212]

use a razor blade and cut around the fuse point. There is some gunk that needs to be taken off around the fuse point. Makes it a hell of a lot easier

[notquitedeadyet 13]

If no go, I'm just going to cut it off and use a standard blade.

Don't give up if you can't pull it out. It's still pretty easy to chisel the tenon out of the inside of the shaft if you cut it at the parting line.

[tml67 0]

use a razor blade and cut around the fuse point. There is some gunk that needs to be taken off around the fuse point. Makes it a hell of a lot easier

I used a knife and started to cut away at the fuse point. If I continue cutting, I'll be cutting it off completely.

I heated it for good 10 minutes, and used a plier to grab a hold of the blade end and pulled and pulled and pulled. No luck.

You guys seem to get it out so easily. This is really frustrating me.

[Chadd 916]

I've owned a dozen different TPS OPS and none of the blades ever pulled out.

[tml67 0]

I've owned a dozen different TPS OPS and none of the blades ever pulled out.

What?!?! It seems a lot of member here were successful in pulling out the blade.

I just wasted another 45 minutes, heating & trying pull the damn blade out. It's not budging at all.

I GIVE UP!! It's going under the knife tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for trying to help.

[DangleSpud 0]

I was getting really pissed myself. But, you really need to anchor one side via a vise or something to get a good pull. Like I said earlier, I got mine out by putting it in a anchored down vise, heating, and while still heating pulled hard with both me and a friend. It really does take that much force. It isn't hot glue, but epoxy. The heating only weekens the bond and expands the shaft.

[sabre09923 0]

Make sure you have a vise, and some help. If you keep at it, eventually, the blade should pop out. If you can't do it for the life of you, just try cutting it, although that will require some work to chisel out the tenon inside the shaft.

[Jackymc 0]

My experience is similar to the others here. I heated the thing up and all it does is soften the epoxy. You have to use ALOT of force to pull the thing out.. after I pulled the blade out the glue wasn't even molten it just broke up into little chunks. Not like pulling apart a two piece at all.

[tml67 0]

I FINALLY GOT IT OUT!!! :D

I took it to my mechanic and we used a vise like someone had suggested, heat and pulled at the same time. It finally popped!!

I would have NEVER gotten out by myself. It's definately a job for two. It requires ALOT of pulling force and heat at the same time.

Thanks everyone for the tips.