pete mahavolich 0 Report post Posted November 30, 2006 Would this combo work well? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chadd 916 Report post Posted November 30, 2006 Moved to the proper forum Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLocust 0 Report post Posted November 30, 2006 I believe you'd have to re-drill the outsole, but I don't see why not. there's always the option of profiling your lightspeed steel if you don't like the pitch of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joshy207 15 Report post Posted December 1, 2006 Personally, I think Mission's steel is the best around, and their holders are very solid. I have Pitch3s on my Kors, and I also have 8090s with F-Pro holders/steel. 8090/Pitch3 would work well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete mahavolich 0 Report post Posted December 1, 2006 Would I have to drill new holes? If I did, would that cause a problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3810 Report post Posted December 1, 2006 Not if it's done right you'll have problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mew1838 0 Report post Posted December 1, 2006 I am curious, Can a skate with originally 271mm holder be replaced with 263mm holder? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mew1838 0 Report post Posted December 6, 2006 bumb can someone answer my question please? Thank you very much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3810 Report post Posted December 6, 2006 I am curious, Can a skate with originally 271mm holder be replaced with 263mm holder?No it can't...it'lll be too short Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven 1 Report post Posted December 6, 2006 While talking about drilling. I know that a lot of pro skates have some holes (like a 5 on a cube or just two next to each other) under their insole. Is that risky to do it yourself? I got some new (sharp, unused) drillers so i could do it on my own, right? Do i have to unmount the holder first? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3810 Report post Posted December 6, 2006 I do it to all of my skates.Open up the skate, take out footbed, and drill right in the arch. 5 holes in a cross pattern. A 5/32" drill bit works fine, the shorter bit the better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hoquyguy 0 Report post Posted December 7, 2006 If the holes don't line up exactly but are very close together, there can be a problem. I replaced a pair of T-blades with E-holders on a pair of Salming skates, and a couple of the holes at the front were very close to each other; almost touching. With the composite sole, I was afraid they would crack in between them, then the entire blade would be loose. What I ended up doing was filling ALL the holes with epoxy, then putting a single layer of fiberglass on top. Then just drill the holes you need. Might be overkill, but the sole certainly won't crack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven 1 Report post Posted December 7, 2006 If the holes don't line up exactly but are very close together, there can be a problem. I replaced a pair of T-blades with E-holders on a pair of Salming skates, and a couple of the holes at the front were very close to each other; almost touching. With the composite sole, I was afraid they would crack in between them, then the entire blade would be loose. What I ended up doing was filling ALL the holes with epoxy, then putting a single layer of fiberglass on top. Then just drill the holes you need. Might be overkill, but the sole certainly won't crack.Thanks for the information, but for me, its kinda logical to keep some space between the holes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
number21 3 Report post Posted October 4, 2007 nevermind.already took them in to get done Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spreedizzle 1 Report post Posted March 7, 2008 Couldn't find the perfect thread for this question....but hey....it's close.I have a pair of RBK 7K's with the stock E-Pro holder that I will be pulling off and replacing with the Pitch 3's. My question is with regards to the pitch setting of the holder. To mimic the E-Pro's blade pitch in which setting would I set the Pitch 3's, or would I use a setting in conjuction with a heel lift. Thanks in advance!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLocust 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2008 The e-pro's blade pitch is neutral (the forward pitch you feel on your 7Ks are from a boot pitch.)Leave the Pitch3 Holder on neutral, without a heel lift to best mimic it. just for fun, try out the other two settings. I skated on L7s for awhile set to neutral, and switched to +1 on a whim one night and loved it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spreedizzle 1 Report post Posted March 7, 2008 Is adjusting the pitch on the holders something that you can do relatively quickly and easily? Like could I adjust it during a stick session on the ice, or a pickup game? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLocust 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2008 yep. the steel attaches to the holder with bolts on the outside (similar to your E-pros, but even easier as it's one side is countersunk into the holder - think one sided axles from Roller Hockey)To adjust the pitch, just remove the rear bolt (uses a square screwdriver bit- when i bought my missions it came with the tool) , slide the steel up/down, replace the screw. I've done it with the skates on, but it can be tricky. One issue you may run into is after a lot of use, the steel will sometimes be lodged in the holder in whatever position it's set at after some use. silicone spray or other similar lube will loosen it right up though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keith 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2008 To keep the pitch function smooth, you need to get the debris out of the thread holes on the holder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
