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Whip

Modo/Forsberg Blade Pattern

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Ive been using the Modo/Forsberg for years now, I can stickhandle without looking down at all since the lie is perfect for me. The tape on the bottom of the blade is worn out perfectly even. However I'm having trouble raising the puck with the curve. I'm aware that manufacterers put rockers on certain blades and lies that are listed may be inaccurate. I'm bascily looking for a curve like the Modo/Forsberg except with more curve so I can raise the puck with identical lies so I can continue to stickhandle without looking down. Does anyone know of a curve like that?

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I would honestly go with using it and learning how to raise the puck. Getting more shovel on there is just a crutch and you'd be better off getting the technique down.

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i have a forsberg stealth and a pm9 xxx lite. the pm9 is a bit more open at the toe while everything else is pretty similar.

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Although I think you mean more closed, I agree, evor1 - the PM9 or St. Louis is a slightly more closed at the toe than the Modano/Foresberg, giving it a little lift, while respecting the overall mid curve. I find it a bit odd that someone who is a fairly competent stick-handler with that pattern would have trouble raising the puck with it - I think you need to practice with it - I mean if you like it for everything else, it's better to fix the one thing that's giving you trouble than change curves and have to re-adjust for everything.

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I use the Forsberg pattern too. I find that when you roll the puck off the toe, you can put the puck anywhere you want.

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Although I think you mean more closed, I agree, evor1 - the PM9 or St. Louis is a slightly more closed at the toe than the Modano/Foresberg, giving it a little lift, while respecting the overall mid curve. I find it a bit odd that someone who is a fairly competent stick-handler with that pattern would have trouble raising the puck with it - I think you need to practice with it - I mean if you like it for everything else, it's better to fix the one thing that's giving you trouble than change curves and have to re-adjust for everything.

Wait- are you saying that a pattern with less loft will give it "more lift"? I might have your description confused, but a blade with a more closed toe, or less loft will not get the puck up quicker.

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I find the RBK Modano and Warrior Fedorov to be a touch more open than the NBH PM9 and Easton Forsberg, but it's so close that you won't see much of a difference. The Fedorov is listed as a 4 lie in the catalogue and a 4.5 lie on the DB, but it's more like a 4.85. The difference in lie between it and other modano clones is so small it won't make any difference.

When I concentrate on my shot with a modo clone, I can put it pretty much anywhere; even from in close, I can roof it with no problems. when rushed however, I find that my shots tend to stay low, which I attribute to me using poor form when rushed on a chance. It's definitely a pattern that can be used to shoot high, you just need to have proper form to do so.

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My quest is similar... I use the Modo/Forsberg blade and wouild like just a little more curve, keeping the relativley closed face.

Ideas? I was thinking Iginla, but I've been looking at them too much and now they all look the damn same!

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My quest is similar... I use the Modo/Forsberg blade and wouild like just a little more curve, keeping the relativley closed face.

Ideas? I was thinking Iginla, but I've been looking at them too much and now they all look the damn same!

TPS Sundin/Afinogenov or Warrior Robitaille. Same lie, deeper curve, closed face.

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My quest is similar... I use the Modo/Forsberg blade and wouild like just a little more curve, keeping the relativley closed face.

Ideas? I was thinking Iginla, but I've been looking at them too much and now they all look the damn same!

A Heatley might work.

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Although I think you mean more closed, I agree, evor1 - the PM9 or St. Louis is a slightly more closed at the toe than the Modano/Foresberg, giving it a little lift, while respecting the overall mid curve. I find it a bit odd that someone who is a fairly competent stick-handler with that pattern would have trouble raising the puck with it - I think you need to practice with it - I mean if you like it for everything else, it's better to fix the one thing that's giving you trouble than change curves and have to re-adjust for everything.

Wait- are you saying that a pattern with less loft will give it "more lift"? I might have your description confused, but a blade with a more closed toe, or less loft will not get the puck up quicker.

"Closed" means more loft in the face, doesn't it? Either way, more loft will give more lift, although not necessarily good lift. I use the low-lofted mid-curves, and I can roof the puck with slap-shots frm the point as easily as wristers near the net - practice with it.

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"Closed" means more loft in the face, doesn't it? Either way, more loft will give more lift, although not necessarily good lift. I use the low-lofted mid-curves, and I can roof the puck with slap-shots frm the point as easily as wristers near the net - practice with it.

I've always known "open" to mean more loft giving slant on the blade. Just like in Golf.

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Open = Loft = Shovel

Closed, to me at least, is the same as neutral. Then there are the rare blades that actually go over that and have negative loft.

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PM9 user here. Fell in love with the curve after finding a closeout OPS for dirt cheap. It sends the puck pretty much wherever you tell it, forehand or backhand, and it does it pretty quickly.

For me, it's all in getting spin on the puck and rolling wrists. When I really focus on my form, I can sail it up high no problem. Otherwise it just stays low. Sent it over the crossbar many times from just outside the crease :angry:

If you really need to get it high fast, the toe has the most loft. I find keeping my bottom hand in close and flicking the puck off the toe will send it up high no problem.

Slappers will usually stay low (which I like for pickup hockey) but I can hit the crossbar again if I focus on technique.

Best thing for me is to go to a pond and just fire at the net for an hour or so until things start clicking. Get the muscle memory going and I don't have to think about it in games.

Oh, and I would consider the composite Forsberg/PM9/Modano to be "slightly open" because of the toe. You can see it with white tape on the blade. To me, a Lindros/P88 curve is closed/neutral.

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