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iggy777

My custom stick fix

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As for Dougie8, you just gave me an idea - after our last game I saw a broken Easton Synergy 350 lying on the ground - and my buddy said, "you want it, take it" - it was broken right in the middle of the shaft. So I think I will perform a little surgery in the future on it. I have had SRS fix some sticks in the past for $40, but I will try it myself this time.

Tried this before... works if you are just going to use it for drop ins or just for fun. I've recovered sticks like this before just so I can save a couple of bucks when I was in college.

Even though I can afford it now, I'd still do it to save a few bucks now and again. The sweating and huffing keeps me busy... rather than doing household chores... heheh...

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Tried this before... works if you are just going to use it for drop ins or just for fun. I've recovered sticks like this before just so I can save a couple of bucks when I was in college.

Even though I can afford it now, I'd still do it to save a few bucks now and again. The sweating and huffing keeps me busy... rather than doing household chores... heheh...

just curious what length plug have you found optimol - maybe 4"??

and what materials did you use? Iggy used 'maple wood' - Yea I would use it just for pick up and stuff....

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$3.50 a gallon .... you lucky b....

We pay £1.10 a litre! So is that about $9 per gallon?

True our cars do more than 10 Mpg and can actually turn corners, so I guess it balances out! : )

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didnt really have any readily available stores in Singapore when I did that. Not like in Perth now with Bunnings (my fav store)...

I think any end plug above 4" would be too much. I had an ollllld easton typhoon that someone broke and was about to throw away. I put a 6" plug and it measured up perfect with my other shafts. I prepped it and brought it back to Singapore to play with the hometown gang. Lasted me about 1.5 hrs before a nice hard snapper cracked the whole 6" end plug clean off. Doesnt matter.. whatever is left of the shaft is going into the corner to be used as a coat hanger rail or something...

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I think any end plug above 4" would be too much. I had an old easton typhoon that someone broke and was about to throw away. I put a 6" plug and it measured up perfect with my other shafts. I prepped it and brought it back to Singapore to play with the hometown gang. Lasted me about 1.5 hrs before a nice hard snapper cracked the whole 6" end plug clean off. Doesnt matter.. whatever is left of the shaft is going into the corner to be used as a coat hanger rail or something...

hmmmm... 1.5 hours of wood work, for 1.5 hours of play, not a real good trade in this case. I guess the plug would be the weekest point in the stick...in SRS repair they claim their fix is the strongest point in the stick....

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1.5hrs of wood work? did I mention that...

actually, it didnt take very long to do... about 20min?

no you did not mention 1.5 hours woodwork, that was just my estimate of how long it might take me, but I was figuring tweeking both ends of the plug, but I guess you just have to sand/fix one end down. Also I figured IGGY's little aluminum plug took him a bit of time too - but he had good tools at school.

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I have a handful of extensions laying around, I figured I'd cut the tenon off one of those to do a mid shaft repair and relegate the stick to off-ice duty, working on hands and whatnot.

The only broken stick I've come across in the rinks was a harrow stick, but it was splintering so badly it wouldn't be worth it, so much shaft would have to be cut out.

I'm not sure if people take them with them or the rink staff/other players are gobbling up all the broken stuff. I still need a dozen more half-shafts for my coffee table.

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I have a handful of extensions laying around, I figured I'd cut the tenon off one of those to do a mid shaft repair and relegate the stick to off-ice duty, working on hands and whatnot.

The only broken stick I've come across in the rinks was a harrow stick, but it was splintering so badly it wouldn't be worth it, so much shaft would have to be cut out.

I'm not sure if people take them with them or the rink staff/other players are gobbling up all the broken stuff. I still need a dozen more half-shafts for my coffee table.

OK, so you would just use a "tenon" only so you can't see any of the plug at all, I was picturing making a plug with 2 "tenons" then sticking each end in the 2 halfs of the shaft and maybe seeing a couple inches of maple. I like the "tenon" only idea, but would it be long enough for stability.

P.S. I have been cutting the "tenon" plus a little extra off my broken Sherwood Coffee blades to use as butt end plugs in a varity of fixed up sticks....

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I found this in my LHS and fell in love with it so idecided to buy it...i like the look of it and the flex...its an intermediate, but the shaft shape seems the same, so it feels like i just have a really whippy senior stick...

ANYWAY...after just 2 skates there's a chunk or 2 outta the heel of the blade as seen in the pics below...any way to fix this??

ST3.jpg

ST2.jpg

stbackhand.jpg

idk if you can tell but its a chunk or 2 outa it...not just like a paint chip..

thanks

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use epoxy to fill up the whole thing... you can use masking tape to form a channel or a mould around that area. I wouldnt worry too much about the sanding, you can always run it over concrete to get the desired surface...

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sorry dude...

not trying to undermine you... didnt know that JB weld was the same thing

Also, after years of playing with epoxy (even used it in a few uni projects) I kinda started to appreciate what it can do to prolong the life of a blade... its like a miracle cure!...

best of luck colt45... let us see the finished product.

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sorry dude...

not trying to undermine you... didnt know that JB weld was the same thing

Also, after years of playing with epoxy (even used it in a few uni projects) I kinda started to appreciate what it can do to prolong the life of a blade... its like a miracle cure!...

best of luck colt45... let us see the finished product.

NP... JB Weld is used to bond metals.

It is a dual chemical application, thus making it an epoxy.

There are several epoxies out there, ranging from Dungeons and Dragons figurines to bonding steel.

I'm simply used to using JB due to my experience with racecars.

No offence taken fatwabbit, you're posts are always good. You are totally "stand-up" :)

I do have to ask, what kind of epoxy do you use? JB's good and all, but heavy.

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thanks for the compliment... I've listed a way to prolong my blades... will do that again once I have a chance.

Basically it saved me a lot of money when I was trying to get by in Uni... at least I got to play my normal fix of games, and still have my fav curve to play with.

I'll try to take photos the next time I do it.

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to answer the qn, I've tried a few brands. Selleys seems to be the best bet so far, especially the one that is meant for metal to metal adhesion. Stay away from those putty type ones... they dont do the job and you cant get a good mix. Stick with the slow cure types until you are sure you wont create a mess. Then you can use the 5 min bond ones. Make sure you use some newspaper to line the area so in case you spill some you wont get crap from everyone else.

Actually, i did quite a fair bit of research back in the day. I even got a chance to visit 3M and talk to their sales engineers (was for another project, but asking qns is free so why not).

The engineers there would recommend their epoxy, saying its the best bond (who wouldnt say that of their own product). Having said that, they are also the most expensive, and they have a real nice 'mixer chamber' that you can attach to those epoxy shringes. They work well to mix the epoxy, but there is a LOT of wastage and residue later on.

I'll defintely post a topic on it once I get back to Perth... am now at my parents' place in Singapore having a little home leave and vacation time... as everyone knows, spending time with the parents is never a vacation!

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The engineers there would recommend their epoxy, saying its the best bond (who wouldnt say that of their own product). Having said that, they are also the most expensive, and they have a real nice 'mixer chamber' that you can attach to those epoxy shringes. They work well to mix the epoxy, but there is a LOT of wastage and residue later on.

Just backin Fatwabbit on spelling... syringe

How's Singapore Fatwabbit?

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haha... you can tell I'm an engineer and not in the medical profession.

Singapore??? Hot and wet, and unfortunately not a woman in heat.

Its been pissing down rain for the past 9 days, except the day that we had hockey drop in with the girls' team... some guys from an arch-nemesis team turned up and gave me a freakin cheap shot to the nose. I thought about taking him out, but sigh... whats the point. the next two shifts I just speed up past him.

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That's a lot of rain FatW!

Hope your nose is alright! That sucks!

Check your OTHER personal message... :D

No need to thank me... thank you!

History has proven you to be more productive on MSH than me :D

Back on topic...

What kind of epoxy do you use?

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selleys, either the 2hour cure or the 5 min cure. I've done it before between games (2hour rest) with the 5 min cure. Was a real rush job, but it basically let my blades survive another few months of playing time.

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