A 'couple' stick questions

[Rink Rat 0]

I have an uncut Warrior Dolomite that was bought in one piece and I want to swap blades, I took a utility knife and cut a notch around where the blade meets the shaft, and I don't know how far to go before it'll be good to pull out, any tips on how this will work? Is it even possible?

Also..

- If I cut my dolomite down 4 inches and replaced it with a 4 inch wood plug, would it mess with the flex?

- What benefits do wood plugs have? Why do pros use them?

- What is the difference between tapered and standard blades and shafts?

Thanks :lol:

[reyno2ac 0]

By bought in one piece do you mean a shaft with a blade in it or a once piece stick? If its a two piece you just need to heat the shaft with a heat gun or blow dryer and pull the blade out. Yes cutting a stick down and placing a wood plug in will mess with the flex(not a ton though).

[cptjeff 0]

I have an uncut Warrior Dolomite that was bought in one piece and I want to swap blades, I took a utility knife and cut a notch around where the blade meets the shaft, and I don't know how far to go before it'll be good to pull out, any tips on how this will work? Is it even possible?

Also..

- If I cut my dolomite down 4 inches and replaced it with a 4 inch wood plug, would it mess with the flex?

- What benefits do wood plugs have? Why do pros use them?

- What is the difference between tapered and standard blades and shafts?

Thanks :lol:

Question one: It won't be possible with a utility knife, You would need a heat gun if it was a two piece and a hacksaw, a file, and a lot of careful attention if it's a one piece. With a new stick, don't try it.

Two: Not significantly. Dolomite is a tapered design, all the flex is low on the stick near the blade. Incidentally, this is where you cut a notch, possibly ensuring your stick will break there soon depending on how deep you cut it.

Three: They make the stick longer. A lot of pros are tall. But also, pros will use them to shave- they'll take the time to shape their grips to suit their hand and how they like the feel of the stick. You can't do that with a composite shaft.

Tapered blades have a narrower hosel- It's a system where the width of a stick narrows as you get closer to the blade to focus the flex in the lower portion of the stick. You get a better snap and release, and it has the added benefit of not affecting the flex too much if you cut it down. A standard shaft will have an even flex throughout the shaft of the stick. Cheaper sticks tend to be standard, but companies these days are releasing top end higher kickpoint sticks as well as top end low kickpoint (tapered) sticks.

As for shaft/ blade combos, you can only use a standard blade with a standard shaft and you can only use a tapered blade with a tapered shaft. Mixing brands is usually fine, as long as TPS isn't involved. They use different dimensions then everybody else.

[Rink Rat 0]

I have an uncut Warrior Dolomite that was bought in one piece and I want to swap blades, I took a utility knife and cut a notch around where the blade meets the shaft, and I don't know how far to go before it'll be good to pull out, any tips on how this will work? Is it even possible?

Also..

- If I cut my dolomite down 4 inches and replaced it with a 4 inch wood plug, would it mess with the flex?

- What benefits do wood plugs have? Why do pros use them?

- What is the difference between tapered and standard blades and shafts?

Thanks :lol:

Question one: It won't be possible with a utility knife, You would need a heat gun if it was a two piece and a hacksaw, a file, and a lot of careful attention if it's a one piece. With a new stick, don't try it.

Two: Not significantly. Dolomite is a tapered design, all the flex is low on the stick near the blade. Incidentally, this is where you cut a notch, possibly ensuring your stick will break there soon depending on how deep you cut it.

Three: They make the stick longer. A lot of pros are tall. But also, pros will use them to shave- they'll take the time to shape their grips to suit their hand and how they like the feel of the stick. You can't do that with a composite shaft.

Tapered blades have a narrower hosel- It's a system where the width of a stick narrows as you get closer to the blade to focus the flex in the lower portion of the stick. You get a better snap and release, and it has the added benefit of not affecting the flex too much if you cut it down. A standard shaft will have an even flex throughout the shaft of the stick. Cheaper sticks tend to be standard, but companies these days are releasing top end higher kickpoint sticks as well as top end low kickpoint (tapered) sticks.

As for shaft/ blade combos, you can only use a standard blade with a standard shaft and you can only use a tapered blade with a tapered shaft. Mixing brands is usually fine, as long as TPS isn't involved. They use different dimensions then everybody else.

Well it's advertised as a one-piece but it is really a two-piece

I cut a notch where I am almost sure the blade meets the shaft and it's in the locker room now so I can finish cutting tomorrow, how will I know when it's ready so I can start heating it up?

Since the dolomites come in 1 piece and 2 piece versions I looked up the shaft and it is tapered, so I'm assuming my 'one-piece' is tapered as well, I wanted an easton blade but those are standard so I will get an XXXX blade.

Thanks for the help

[kovalchuk71 212]

Dont cut anything yet. see if you can heat the shaft up and pull the blade out. People have done this with Dolomite one pieces before. Dont cut unless you have to

[LkptTiger 1]

- What benefits do wood plugs have? Why do pros use them?

Three: They make the stick longer. A lot of pros are tall. But also, pros will use them to shave- they'll take the time to shape their grips to suit their hand and how they like the feel of the stick. You can't do that with a composite shaft.

They can also help balance sticks a bit, too (depending on your personal preference). The sticks I'm using now (One95 shaft/5030 blade combos) were/are first cut to length...then I took some plugs, cut the tops (extensions) off and put them in my sticks so they're flush and even with the butt-end of the shaft. This helps "alleviate" the blade-heavy feel that you get with composite shaft/wood blade combos.

Datsyuk springs to mind...he used a LOT of wood to balance-out his RBK 9ks (at least his first few batches, anyways). Much more than "flush with the shaft."

It's also pretty common for guys to use plugs to help kill vibration and improve puck feel in composite sticks. I've used 'em in some of the "pingier" sticks I've used (XN10s, CNT Stealths), and they did make a bit of difference.

I never had any issues with 1100s/Dolomites being particularly out-of-balance or "pingy," but the great thing about hockey equipment is that it's all about - ***everybody say it with me*** - PERSONAL PREFERENCE. Just because I liked mine as they were doesn't necessarily mean you're going to like yours without messing with it a bit (or at all). Tinker with your gear - you never know what you'll like/love/dislike/hate until you give it a whirl.

I wanted an easton blade but those are standard so I will get an XXXX blade.

The SE blade is tapered.

[shades9323 0]

As for shaft/ blade combos, you can only use a standard blade with a standard shaft and you can only use a tapered blade with a tapered shaft. Mixing brands is usually fine, as long as TPS isn't involved. They use different dimensions then everybody else.

Problems with TPS shafts or blades? I have a TPS wood blade in my Bauer Vapor XV shaft and it seems fine.

[Jarick 5]

I have a Dolomite "one piece" and the blade is glued in so tight you would have to cut it off. I've tried heating and pulling, but it won't budge at all. On the plus side, the stick is six months old and in great shape, and the blade is cracked at the top from a slash but still stiff as new with no cracks at the bottom. I've also had it for several months after trying to scrape away the epoxy they use to mask the joint and heat and pull the blade with no problems.

So you'll either have to cut the blade off at the joint and chisel out the tenon or just live with the curve as long as possible.

Oh and regarding the plug, I wouldn't do it unless you need the balance changed. If you want the deader feel and increased weight of a wood plug, buy one, chop off the handle, heat up the butt end of the stick, and put the tenon in there. I actually did this with maybe a 3/4" section of wood tenon to seal up the end and prevent injuries.

[cptjeff 0]

As for shaft/ blade combos, you can only use a standard blade with a standard shaft and you can only use a tapered blade with a tapered shaft. Mixing brands is usually fine, as long as TPS isn't involved. They use different dimensions then everybody else.

Problems with TPS shafts or blades? I have a TPS wood blade in my Bauer Vapor XV shaft and it seems fine.

I used a TPS tapered blade (their wood one) with an Easton shaft, it was much narrower then the Shaft. I had to stick a tongue depressor in there to make it fit right (way beyond tape's capabilities). Worked fine when I did that, but I didn't get a new blade from them when it broke. The Easton taper fit fine.

Could be their standard blade is the same but the tapered ones aren't.

I have a Dolomite "one piece" and the blade is glued in so tight you would have to cut it off. I've tried heating and pulling, but it won't budge at all. On the plus side, the stick is six months old and in great shape, and the blade is cracked at the top from a slash but still stiff as new with no cracks at the bottom. I've also had it for several months after trying to scrape away the epoxy they use to mask the joint and heat and pull the blade with no problems.

So you'll either have to cut the blade off at the joint and chisel out the tenon or just live with the curve as long as possible.

Oh and regarding the plug, I wouldn't do it unless you need the balance changed. If you want the deader feel and increased weight of a wood plug, buy one, chop off the handle, heat up the butt end of the stick, and put the tenon in there. I actually did this with maybe a 3/4" section of wood tenon to seal up the end and prevent injuries.

Could be that it's a permanent bond, not just hot glue. That's certainly what I would do if I was making one of those.

[Chadd 916]

All of the "fused" OPS use epoxy to hold the blade in place. Warrior and TPS use a softer epoxy that "flows" at a lower temperature than the stuff used by other manufacturers.

[shades9323 0]

As for shaft/ blade combos, you can only use a standard blade with a standard shaft and you can only use a tapered blade with a tapered shaft. Mixing brands is usually fine, as long as TPS isn't involved. They use different dimensions then everybody else.

Problems with TPS shafts or blades? I have a TPS wood blade in my Bauer Vapor XV shaft and it seems fine.

I used a TPS tapered blade (their wood one) with an Easton shaft, it was much narrower then the Shaft. I had to stick a tongue depressor in there to make it fit right (way beyond tape's capabilities). Worked fine when I did that, but I didn't get a new blade from them when it broke. The Easton taper fit fine.

Could be their standard blade is the same but the tapered ones aren't.

My TPS blade is tapered.

[cptjeff 0]

As for shaft/ blade combos, you can only use a standard blade with a standard shaft and you can only use a tapered blade with a tapered shaft. Mixing brands is usually fine, as long as TPS isn't involved. They use different dimensions then everybody else.

Problems with TPS shafts or blades? I have a TPS wood blade in my Bauer Vapor XV shaft and it seems fine.

I used a TPS tapered blade (their wood one) with an Easton shaft, it was much narrower then the Shaft. I had to stick a tongue depressor in there to make it fit right (way beyond tape's capabilities). Worked fine when I did that, but I didn't get a new blade from them when it broke. The Easton taper fit fine.

Could be their standard blade is the same but the tapered ones aren't.

My TPS blade is tapered.

All I know is that the TPS tapered blade I had was much narrower then the easton one, And I've heard of a good number of other people having the same problem.

[Chadd 916]

quality control on the TPS blade tenons can be spotty. I have several that vary in sizes.

[Rink Rat 0]

So I guess I was wrong, it is a 1 piece, I chopped the blade off and put the new blade on the other end, but it's tapered so it isn't very tight, should I use more glue or put tape on it (if yeah, where)?

[cptjeff 0]

So I guess I was wrong, it is a 1 piece, I chopped the blade off and put the new blade on the other end, but it's tapered so it isn't very tight, should I use more glue or put tape on it (if yeah, where)?

The other end is probably going to take a standard blade. The whole point of a taper is that it's a lot wider at the butt end. Take it out, and carefully hollow out where the blade was. You might also be able to cut up the shaft a little to get it wider to the point where a tapered blade can be fit. There's a thread on doing this around here somewhere...

here: http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...?showtopic=7494

Also, if you put a standard blade in the bottom, the composite there is a lot thinner and will probably break fairly quickly.

[Rink Rat 0]

So when I cut the blade off the taper was way too thin to fit a tapered blade in, I thought part of the old blade was still stuck in there so I put my blade in the former butt end, but it was fit for standard blades so it wobbled a little, and I don't want it to break. So should I just take a chisel and lightly chisel out the bottom until the tapered blade will fit? And what is the deal with the foam in warrior sticks? What if I need to cut more off and it gets in the way..

[silverclrk 0]

So when I cut the blade off the taper was way too thin to fit a tapered blade in, I thought part of the old blade was still stuck in there so I put my blade in the former butt end, but it was fit for standard blades so it wobbled a little, and I don't want it to break. So should I just take a chisel and lightly chisel out the bottom until the tapered blade will fit? And what is the deal with the foam in warrior sticks? What if I need to cut more off and it gets in the way..

This is why you just buy the shaft instead of buying a op and trying to midifiy it. I am sure the foam would be a lot easier to get out then chiseling the last of the old blade out.