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westcoastsniper

changing the lie of wood blade.

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Is it possible to change the lie of a wood blade using a file or rasp?>

I know that you can add/change the rocker with a little work, but I wonder if it's actually possible to change the lie?

Or would taking the heel of the blade down to the point where the lie is changed take too much of the blade away?

I searched for relevant topics, but couldn't find.

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Is it possible to change the lie of a wood blade using a file or rasp?>

I know that you can add/change the rocker with a little work, but I wonder if it's actually possible to change the lie?

Yes it's possible by those means, which is one of the benefits of using wood blades as opposed to composites. But there's only so much modification that can be done.

Or would taking the heel of the blade down to the point where the lie is changed take too much of the blade away?

That all depends on the blade thickness to begin with and on your personal preference... some guys like really thin blades, some don't. I'd say go pick up a wood blade and start experimenting, just go little by little til you find something you like. I'd also break out some fine sand paper to finish it off nicely and something to maybe re-seal the wood but that's just me.

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Speaking of lie and rocker, what retail blades on the market today, aside from Black Beauty and Easton's Modano/Forsberg/Zetterberg pattern, have relatively little to no rocker? Easton Iginla and CCM Recchi I believe have also been mentioned as having slightly rockered bottoms?

What others?

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What is the actual angle of each lie in degrees? Is there a chart or something somewhere to say how many degrees each lie represents?

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It varies depending on manufacturer (I'm sure you know that). I remember reading somewhere that a 5 lie is 135 degrees and each integral accounts for a 2 degree reduction, so a 6 lie is 133 degrees.

Also, wood blades allow you to modify them into what you want at the expense of its durability. Sanding down the bottom is gonna remove the fibreglass wrap and drastically reduce the lifetime of your blade.

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Once you sand it down, if you do, wrap it in duct tape and then heat over the stove. The duct tape shrinks together and makes a pretty decent waterproof seal. Then add hockey tape on top.

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Once you sand it down, if you do, wrap it in duct tape and then heat over the stove. The duct tape shrinks together and makes a pretty decent waterproof seal. Then add hockey tape on top.

Is that what ghetto college kids use instead of heat guns?

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thanks for the link defiant.

I was thinking of using epoxy along the bottom of the blade, I have a couple of XXXlites blades that are cracked, so maybe I'll try it out on those first before I rasp away my pretty R2's

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the 130~ degrees way is measuring an ops when u can't get the hosel...i know 135 was the standard and the 2 degrees thing is right but dunno what lie the 135 is

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Once you sand it down, if you do, wrap it in duct tape and then heat over the stove. The duct tape shrinks together and makes a pretty decent waterproof seal. Then add hockey tape on top.

Is that what ghetto college kids use instead of heat guns?

If your lucky enough to have a gas stove, or a stove. It probably would be easier to just pour a glass of everclear and get a match than use was passes for "appliances" in most college apartments.

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