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xstartxtodayx last won the day on May 13

xstartxtodayx had the most liked content!

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276 Excellent

About xstartxtodayx

  • Birthday 09/06/1979


  • Skates
    CCM Jetspeed FT490
  • Stick
    Triggers and JetSpeeds
  • Gloves
    CCM HG12's, Warriors w/ HG12 cuffs
  • Helmet
    CCM Tacks 910, V08
  • Pants
    9K Girdle/Super Tacks Girdle
  • Shoulder Pads
    CCM U+ CL, Ultra Tacks
  • Elbow Pads
    Super Tacks, UltraSonic, 19k Pro
  • Shin Pads
    CCM 19K Pro, Jofa 5090
  • Hockey Bag
    Easton Pro Backpack

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Long Island, NY
  • Interests
    xdadxlifex, Hockey, VW's, music, PMA, sXe, coffee addict, photography
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7923 profile views
  1. I had a pro stock one I got for under $200 but, unfortunately, found out they run noticeably smaller than the 910's which share the same shell (I'm a small 910 and have it adjusted about half way, in the Tacks X I was all the way out as big as it could go and barely squeezed in). I tried mine out and squeezed into it for one skate and it felt great as far as weight and airflow, I just wish It was a little bit bigger (I had the hex pattern pressed onto my head for quite some time afterwards 🤣). I'd still love one but most I see are in the $250+ range which is more than I'm willing to spend, I'll stick to my 910's for now.
  2. The Tacks line has D3O right on the inside of the plastic shell dead center on the knee. Personally I felt it did nothing when I used some Super Tacks shins 4ish years ago. The biggest issue with modern retail shins is the lack of actual padding around the knee on the liner, the donut area is seriously lacking compared to how they made them some 30 years ago and how pro stock pads are. Once I switched to pro stock pads with the old school liners I never had an issue anymore, the extra thick padding on the donut makes a world of difference. If it were me and I wanted to add more knee protection I'd find an old set of pro stock liners, or maybe just a set of old retail liners, and make that donut thicker with a nice dense foam.
  3. I have some pant shells and just keep the same size, they're cut slightly different (a touch boxier) but not enough to warrant me dropping down a size.
  4. What do you mean "multiple flex points all the way down to 70"? Generally, the more you cut the stiffer the stick will feel, not the opposite, so the longer the stick the lower the flex. Not sure if that's what you mean but that's how it sounds, also your first post mentioned cutting a 95 flex down to the height of an 85 flex, which seemed odd since the height of each would be the same unless one was an extended version. Either way, if I were in your shoes I'd keep the curve and go with the lower flex. I love the P90TM and have gone back and forth between that and a P28 and the P90TM wins it for me, such a great curve, just wish it were easier to find pro stock and sellers knew the difference between P90TM, P90, and P90T since they're definitely not the same lol.
  5. It extends so far from the forehead it might as well be a visor. It gets 0 stars in the looks category.
  6. I'd say AS-V Pro's, the Tacks shoulder caps tend to wrap a little more front/back than the Jetspeed/CL/RBZ/QL line.
  7. You're like a month too late lol, I had a PP9k FS for a while that I practically gave away finally. If you're not opposed to a Warrior shell, PSH has a bunch. Most of the ones I have fit slightly wider than CCM but the latest one I got from a different seller (Londsonsports on SLS) was a little smaller/narrower, so it's a crapshoot. They are girdle shells but they don't have the plastic kidney guards like the PP90/PP9K, honestly with modern girdles (of the last 20 years) I don't know how much those added guards do anyways. https://www.prostockhockey.com/player-protective/shells/size-m-warrior-covert-qre-girdle-shell-team-stock-toronto-maple-leafs/
  8. Also, knowing how he is, he prob knew it would piss a bunch of people off so went out of his way to make it look as bad as possible.
  9. I mean he's setting that bar pretty low, I'm pretty sure my 10 year old could manage to make a pair of gloves look better than that lol
  10. Maybe a paint marker? Should be more durable than something like a Sharpie, but I've gotta say, any time I've seen gloves that people have blacked out branding/accents you can always tell. Depending on where the accents are/size/shape, maybe just covering an area with pad-skinz in black might look better?
  11. Just be aware, the 910 and Vector 08 are both oval shaped, so if he has a round head shape they won't work for him (the 710 is round). CCM is generally a little larger compared to Bauer, I'm a small in CCM and a medium in Bauer models, but I couldn't wear the 710 when I tried it since the round shape didn't work for my oval shaped head lol
  12. If you tried using this on the entire palm you'd have a super thick/stiff palm, it's great for small repairs but you wouldn't want too much of it on there.
  13. You'd have to re-palm the gloves and use a dyed material and yes it is very difficult to do, you have to remove the bindings and cut all the threading, then clone the shape and re-sew everything back together. There are a few places that do this still, some are not so great at it and some are pretty good. CPR (custom pre repair) is the pro level for this but impossible to get stuff done if you're not a pro since they're so backed up with work for NHL clubs, or you can check out ITR on instagram/facebook, he does some great work and has about a 2ish month turn around and some fair pricing (just a heads up, this sort of work is not cheap, we're talking prob $80-100 for a simple re-palm, much more if you also want fancy new gussets or some other custom overlays). https://www.instagram.com/itr_hockey/
  14. A large shell on a med. girdle will definitely have overhang. Pants are generally a bit bulkier as opposed to girdles (which fit closer to the body) so the same shell will be looser on a girdle as opposed to pants.
  15. Are you sure the clip is snapping over the posts 100% It's a tough squeeze, I had to use a flat head to push it down hard enough, but once it snapped on it was super tight and is a PITA to get back off (I know b/c I had to remove them twice to get rivets tightened). I know the first time I installed mine I thought they were on all th wway but I still had a little ways to go.
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