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snipey

REEBOK 10k Broken OPS

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Aha it wasn't actually my loss, my buddy is really hard on sticks and he always break them at the blade so he tosses them my way for free :). Are you sure I can't get it chizzled out anyway? and how far will I have to cut it to fit a taper blade?

Thanks for the responses guys

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I found a busted one in the trash at my rink, was able to cut and put a tapered blade in, but needed to put like 3-4 layers of tape on the tennon to keep it from wiggling. Guessing that depending on where she's busted you should be able to get a tapered blade in or flip it, and put in a standard blade

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I found a busted one in the trash at my rink, was able to cut and put a tapered blade in, but needed to put like 3-4 layers of tape on the tennon to keep it from wiggling. Guessing that depending on where she's busted you should be able to get a tapered blade in or flip it, and put in a standard blade

I would never throw out a broken 10k, that guy must be crazy

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Just get the blade, and cut off bit by bit until it's a perfect fit. It doesn't take nearly long enough to make it necessary to have an exact spot.

Yeah, just start at the end and cut off little by little. When my One95 broke I cut an inch or so off at a time until it looked like I was getting close, then I started taking 1/2" off at a time. By the time I was done though the shaft was so short I had to put about a 6" plug in it to make it useable.

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Just get the blade, and cut off bit by bit until it's a perfect fit. It doesn't take nearly long enough to make it necessary to have an exact spot.

Yeah, just start at the end and cut off little by little. When my One95 broke I cut an inch or so off at a time until it looked like I was getting close, then I started taking 1/2" off at a time. By the time I was done though the shaft was so short I had to put about a 6" plug in it to make it useable.

That's what happened with my MacDaddy, I ended up just using the shaft as a decoration on the wall...lol

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If you have the plug in it will still be a lot better then flipping it. Flipping it will screw up the balance and kickpoint completely. You're better off with a low end OPS then a flipped top end one.

Cut it down, add a plug if you need to. If you're shorter then your friend is you won't need nearly as long a plug- and a 3" plug is pretty much all I've ever needed to make sticks their original length. 6 is nuts.

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if you're really commited to making it work, cut it to the length you want and drill out/dremel the inside until it fits the blade you want to use. it's labor intensive, but the hard work creates a special bond between you and your new stick ;). I've gotten more enjoyment out of spending a few hours building a stick than buying one off the shelf.

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I don't understand.

the mass in the middle is essentially the tenon of the previous blade, right fused to the shaft? so, you chop the blade and drill out the tenon, then dremel (or file) until you get to the wall of the shaft (which you can usually see quite clearly).

it's obviously got to be cut high enough to accomodate the new blade, but that's easy enough to figure out.

and even if the structural integrity is compromised by this method (although I've never experienced it), it was a free shaft and you got sone practise.

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If you're doing anything with a dremel, you need to be very careful that you're not removing parts of the shaft. If you're just cutting it to the length you need like the post suggested, then you run a huge risk. You do need to make sure it's wide enough first, that's the primary concern. Wood plugs are not that big a deal.

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They're probably not constructed in the same way at all, but I was able to turn a 7k into a tapered shaft. I sawed off the blade, stock a metal rod in the shaft, heated it up with a heat gun, and popped the hosel out. Then I cut 1/4" higher and higher until the tapered blade fit.

It was shorter, but I use it for my dryland stick. And a 3" plug won't make a huge difference. But the stick has a ton of pop to it still and seems very durable.

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They're probably not constructed in the same way at all, but I was able to turn a 7k into a tapered shaft. I sawed off the blade, stock a metal rod in the shaft, heated it up with a heat gun, and popped the hosel out. Then I cut 1/4" higher and higher until the tapered blade fit.

It was shorter, but I use it for my dryland stick. And a 3" plug won't make a huge difference. But the stick has a ton of pop to it still and seems very durable.

Broken a couple u+ sticks. Probably the easiest stick to make work with a taper blade. Sense it's a straight through design I just cut up 1 1/2 and the taper blade dropped right in no problems. Alittle off topic from the 10k but thought I'd share either way.

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I've done this with two 10k's now. All you have to do is cut right at the visible fuse point, right above the blade. Cut there with a dremel and you'll be able to slide any tapered blade right in perfectly.

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It would be cool if someone made a tutorial with pictures, would be cool to see the process.

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I do have pictures of exactly where to cut in the last page or two of the 10k stick thread. Do a quick search and you'll see where to cut.

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found a broken steve ott pro stock yellow S17 (without eliptical taper), i just flipped it and put a blade in it.

For some reason, it didn't look like there was even a taper on it! :huh:

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Thankfully my friend is quite a bit taller than me, And yea I do like to work on sticks so i might aswell try that. How do you recomened I drill it out? what kind of procedure should I take so that I dont wreck it lol

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