Replacing Blades

[black hills tj 5]

So I'm considering stepping up to a composite stick, and it has been mentioned that at my current level of play, it'd be a good idea to go with a 2 piece stick so I can experiment with different blades and curves. This brings up a few questions.

First, what shaft do you think would be a good place to start? I'm on a budget and I don't need top of the line gear, so I need to be reasonable and aim for best bang for the buck according to what I'll be using it for(Beer league 1-2 times a week).

Next, where do you think I should start experimenting with blades if I go this route? I play forward so I do some stick handling. I'm not real strong so most of my shots are quick little wristers.

Finally, is installing/swapping a stick simply as easy as heating the resin up on the blade and sliding it in? Will a cheaper(~$25) heat gun work fine for this task?

Thanks for all the help guys, and I appreciate you bearing with me as I learn how to get things done.

[number21 3]

I would say a cheap heat gun would be fine.

If you want to go cheaper then I guess the standard shafts seem to have more lower cost options.

I have had an Easton Ultra Lite for several years of beer league. Those are gone now but the ST shaft is about the same I paid for the UL (around $99). I also have a Harrow shaft which has been good that is a tapered and they run $100. I have also heard good things about the Warrior AK27 in that price range.

There is a review of the Warrior Bandito in the long term review section. The review is for the "one piece" but the shaft should be about the same. Those are around $80.

I have never tried the cheaper shafts ($50-60 range) so maybe someone else can chime in. But I would guess they would be fine. Players way better than me shoot well with the old Easton Octain, which I think was more or less a pvc shaft.

As far as curves, I wish I could help. I still haven't figured out what curve I like as my shot is pretty bad with all of them.

[sickwilly 37]

I usually use the stove top to change my blades. My cheap heat gun works fine, too. I keep the blades/hosels well above the heating element, though.

Keep an eye on ebay. You can sometimes find top-end used shafts on there for great prices, especially if you're not stuck on this year's "latest and greatest". The Easton Ultra Lites that number21 mentioned pop up on ebay from time to time, and are pretty rugged.

Going the used route on ebay may also allow you to try some different brands/models, flexes and blade patterns so that you can find what you really like. If possible, see if some of your friends will let you try their sticks/curves, so you can get an idea of what feels right to you.

If I had to buy a stick for a friend who was just starting to play, I might get a p88 pattern (Lindros/Kane). I think it's good for a lot of things... then again that's personal preference. At first, I might stay away from some of the more open curve patterns so that your passes and shots aren't likely to flutter or go too high.

Assuming that you're an adult - As a newer player, I might not start with a shaft that's stiffer than regular flex (85 or so in many brands). If you're not that strong, as you say, you may prefer a 75 flex. If you can, I still think it's best to try some of your buddies' stuff to see what feels best before you buy anything.

[SirJW 207]

Ebay and or the sell forum here is a great place to get new and slightty used shafts for cheaper than LHS and online, for some reason you never see shaft blow out sales.

You can get a decent heat gun here for a good price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

Careful when using a gas stove you could damage the shaft. I only use it to remove blades from broken shafts. I've never used an electric stove, does anyone? I've read here that someone has success w/ boing water to heat the shaft. BTW you see pros w/ a torch but they go through sticks every day...

[sickwilly 37]

Good point on the gas stove. I use an electric stove only. Works great.

[yrhmblnr8r 69]

Good point on the gas stove. I use an electric stove only. Works great.

I'll second Sickwilly's vote for the stove. It worked fine for me for years before I was given a heat gun as a gift. My wife was happy as it meant no more glue drippings messing up her cooktop. Lesson: stove works fine, but be careful not to make a mess.

While you're experimenting with patterns you won't need top of the line blades. Spend a little extra to get a better shaft. It's the constant during your trial phase so you'll want a good one. After you've settled on a pattern you like you can upgrade to a nicer blade then.

Also, consider your local blade selection when choosing a standard vs tapered shaft. My brother has trouble finding tapered blades back home. It's the reverse situation where I live. Pick the one that offers you the most variety.

[XveritasX 13]

I also use a stove, works just fine. As for your first shaft I would get a standard, as said before it can be hard to sometimes find tapered blades, at least where I live it's true.

[Chadd 916]

Finally, is installing/swapping a stick simply as easy as heating the resin up on the blade and sliding it in? Will a cheaper(~$25) heat gun work fine for this task?

I bought my last heat gun at Harbor Freight for $10 and that was three or four years ago. Cheap ones are fine, and a better solution than a stove top

[Jarick 5]

I really like the balance of a tapered 2-piece compared to standard, but both shoot fairly well in my experience. Pretty much all the big brands are good quality and cheap blades will throw off the balance if weight is a concern. I would definitely recommend a heat gun though, they are invaluable. Got mine at Home Depot for $30.

[black hills tj 5]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm looking at my options right now, and I'll keep you guys updated on what I decide and the results I get.

[black hills tj 5]

I just found an uncut Z-bubble for 35 shipped. Now time to find a couple blades to try.