Curving composite blades

[Karly14 21]

Hi, I have an elaborate question, that I realize has no perfect answer.

I've recently returned from playing in Europe. The sticks (CCM/Reebok) that we got there had different blades than the North American models, in that, with heat, they are very curvable. Almost every guy I played with modified their blades and it made little to no difference in durability/stiffness. Needless to say, I got used to putting a pretty aggressive toe hook on the very tip of the blade (ala Ryan O'Reily) of a 19+ (sakic-ish) pattern.

O Reilly's (similar to mine)

I've run out of my sticks, and am now contuining this with retail sticks. Sometimes it works well and sometimes it drastically effects durability. I've done it on total ones, One95's, CL's, T90's (seems to work the best on these), stealths etc, all with varying succes. Because I only do this right at the end of the blade, I've been able to limit damage.

I'm wondering if any of the more experienced members here have any advice on making curving blades a more consistent process. I realize that it will always really damage the blade, but getting my old pattern is worth it to me. I also realize there may not be answer to this, but I'd greatly appreciate any advice. Any methods, tools, specific models, that I should be using?

I should also mention, that I've tried switching to P08's, Gionta retails, kovalev pro (newer, bigger toe curve pattern-kova 15-190 C5xxs), back to sakic retails, and have had a huge amount of trouble adapting.

Thanks in advance!

-Karly14

[Tyler Roy 86]

Why not just send out a blade to get molded and get replacement blades.

[steelnation248 102]

I know this isn't the answer you were looking for but if you are a lefty, you can hunt down some Havlat pro stocks. They look pretty similar to the the blade you pictured above. I've seen a few of them around here in Michigan.

[Chadd 916]

Those blades are similar to the old Vector 110 style blades If I remember correctly. If so, that explains why it's possible to mold them.

[nicker87 47]

Hey I have a question that kinda relates to this, I see a lot of pros sanding the toes and bottoms of there blades and I'm wondering if anyone has done this? And if it effects the construction and over all integrity of the balde? I use a Bauer with a backstrom curve and iv been thinking on squaring up the toe and flaying the bottom a bit but don't wanna waste a good stick if it is gonna really effect it's construction

[Karly14 21]

You're right Chadd, they are very similar to the old v110 style blades. Almost abs'esque, very thin.

Tyler-I'll likely go back to Europe in the summer, So I'm looking to make due fo now. I have 10-15 new OPS with the proper flex, and retail sakic pattern (which I base the pattern off of), that'd I'd like to use before spending money on blades. If I decide not to go back, I will absolutely get custom sticks. Thanks for the quick reply's guys.

Steelnation-Havlat is close, but a really really high lie and more of a square toe. I'm irrationally picky. I really wish I wasn't!

[Chadd 916]

Hey I have a question that kinda relates to this, I see a lot of pros sanding the toes and bottoms of there blades and I'm wondering if anyone has done this? And if it effects the construction and over all integrity of the balde? I use a Bauer with a backstrom curve and iv been thinking on squaring up the toe and flaying the bottom a bit but don't wanna waste a good stick if it is gonna really effect it's construction

Sanding any significant amount will expose the foam inside and result in extremely rapid deterioration of the blade, especially the stiffness

[nicker87 47]

Sanding any significant amount will expose the foam inside and result in extremely rapid deterioration of the blade, especially the stiffness

Ok thanks

[Karly14 21]

No advice? Should I make a disclaimer-"I will only blame myself if I destroy my own sticks"

[Apes44 7]

I wouldnt mess with them, I tried using the boiling water method on my TO and the blade just bent like wet cardboard and was in two pieces! Even though you have no one else to blame (and may not like the curve you have, as in my case) you will still be ticked off when you no longer have the $200+ stick! The only good thing is it forced me to try a friends stick and i loved the new curve and put 3 in the net with it, so i bought it!

[JonoDigz 4]

Hey I have a question that kinda relates to this, I see a lot of pros sanding the toes and bottoms of there blades and I'm wondering if anyone has done this? And if it effects the construction and over all integrity of the balde? I use a Bauer with a backstrom curve and iv been thinking on squaring up the toe and flaying the bottom a bit but don't wanna waste a good stick if it is gonna really effect it's construction

You can square the toe on most... I square all my Bauer P92. You will not hit foam or anything like that in the 1/2 inch it will take to square it. I use a

grind wheel and then finish it with 2000 grit sand paper. Then I brush any area I have altered with a poly clear coat. Ive seen many guys do

the same thing to many diff models. Obviously you dont want to go further then you have too. Ill post a picture if the before and after when I get home

if there is any interest.

[cbart 1]

Heat gun and a Procurve....been using it for years on composites...

[nicker87 47]

You can square the toe on most... I square all my Bauer P92. You will not hit foam or anything like that in the 1/2 inch it will take to square it. I use a

grind wheel and then finish it with 2000 grit sand paper. Then I brush any area I have altered with a poly clear coat. Ive seen many guys do

the same thing to many diff models. Obviously you dont want to go further then you have too. Ill post a picture if the before and after when I get home

if there is any interest.

Yeah pics would be awesome, if it's not to much trouble. And u haven't had any issues with the over all strength and construction after this?