Are there any good tapered blades out there?

[louierev07 31]

Its hard enough to even find tapered blades, and then its even harder to find your pattern. It seems like a lot of the blades I see on hockeymonkey also get a lot of negative reviews as well.

If I were to actually pony up some decent cash for a nice blade (been using wood and blades pulled from OPS until now), what is the best blade out there?

I previously owned a warrior widow stick that the blade broke pretty quickly on, so I kind of dont want to get a warrior blade if I can help it.

I use a Hall pattern, so Id be looking for a company that has a clone (Bauer, Warrior, Easton, or CCM - possibly a sherwood PP26 stastny, but I dont really like the small differences, and I dont like the Reebok 87A for whatever reason)

So lemme know what you think.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

I'm a big fan of the BASE tapered blades. I've used several of them and have always had good results. They're light, have good feel, and have been surprisingly durable for me. I've yet to have a blade actually break on me; I only replace them when the toe starts to go soft. The last Bauer blades I tried had terrible feel, and the Warrior blades broke or went soft within the first few uses. Give them a shot if you're willing to try a different brand. They're the only blades I've bought and used for the last 2-3 years.

[louierev07 31]

I'm a big fan of the BASE tapered blades. I've used several of them and have always had good results. They're light, have good feel, and have been surprisingly durable for me. I've yet to have a blade actually break on me; I only replace them when the toe starts to go soft. The last Bauer blades I tried had terrible feel, and the Warrior blades broke or went soft within the first few uses. Give them a shot if you're willing to try a different brand. They're the only blades I've bought and used for the last 2-3 years.

Checking them out now. Is the only way to get them directly from them? Looking at patterns, it looks like the BC92 is the same as the Hall/Backstrom curve. Which lie is the correct one if I want to get the same as the Easton? I know easton lists the Hall lie at 5.5, but im pretty sure that would be the same as a Bauer 6. I also don't see any prices, how are they compared to other brands?

Which Bauer and Warrior blades did you use if you dont mind me asking. Ive heard that since the AX1 and DT1 lines theyve improved the durability.

And also, if it makes any difference as far as feel goes, the best feeling blade Ive used was pulled out of a mako II. It felt like the blade would make perfect contact every time. Conversely, the worst Ive felt has been pulled from a 65s stealth. Its a cheaper stick anyway, but the blade felt dead and had no pop.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

Yeah you have to order directly from them. You can either call or order online; last I checked they were $60 a blade.

The last Bauer and Warrior blades I used were the X60 and Dynasty if I remember right. All the Vapor blades I've tried just haven't worked for me. The Warriors weren't bad, but like I said, they just went soft really fast. I've used a couple Covert DT1's and the blade's been better, but I honestly haven't used them enough to know how the durability would be.

As far as the lie goes, I'm not 100% sure. I'd shoot them an email.

[romdj 26]

best bang for the buck is definitely harrow.

Second choice would also be base.

Then Bauer, then the rest

[fatwabbit 93]

Agree with Rom that the harrow blades are awesome. Got with pattern 6 I think for a hall clone. I've got some of these and still on my first blade

[notquitedeadyet 13]

best bang for the buck is definitely harrow.

I used to think that until I had a couple fold at the tenon. Some other people had the same problem.

The second time it happened, it blew out the end of my XN10 shaft & made me very sad.

[louierev07 31]

I used to think that until I had a couple fold at the tenon. Some other people had the same problem.

The second time it happened, it blew out the end of my XN10 shaft & made me very sad.

Just ordered one in a pattern 6. I usually wear out blades at the heel before anything else, so hopefully that happens before the tenon goes.

And I have a Harrow store in my state - so if something happens right away, I guess I can always go there and complain, and maybe at least get a free replacement blade out of the deal. I get my shafts on ebay for like 25-30 bucks, so not a huge deal if something happens to them.

EDIT: Also, not like it matters now since I already ordered and will find out for myself - but how close is their Hall clone to a Hall? (if anyone has used it) I mentioned in the OP that I ended up not really liking the Stastny - which I think is Sherwoods clone. And the Crosby P87A seemed off when compared as well. I could probably get used to the differences in the Stastny, but not the Crosby.

[Cosmic 178]

I like the Warrior Dynasty AXT1 blade- $54.99 at most stores, minus 20% discount and you get a pretty fair price on it.

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/64957-warrior-dynasty-axt1-tapered-composite-blade/

[Nealoc187 10]

I have tried a LOT of different blades and the Reebok 11K is the ONLY one I've been really happy with. I had some blades go out in the first or second ice time (two Inno blades in a row back in 2008 when I first bought a tapered shaft). Others I've had the heel go out.

My Reebok 11K Datsyuk lasted probably 150 ice times before I retired it, and I still have it as a backup as the heel is STILL solid. I retired it because the toe has gone to shit (it's about 1" shorter now than it was new). Toe chipped away. I bought out hockeygiant's entire stock of 11K Reebok right handed Datsyuks when they last had them (lol only 3). I'm experimenting on my current one to try to keep the toe intact via either tape, epoxy, both, because if the toe on that blade hadn't died, I'd still be using it. It's still solid throughout.

Since finding the 11k the only other blade I've tried is a Harrow 4, which is supposed to be a datsyuk clone, but it doesn't work for me. Something about the blade shape - I can't shoot that bade. Every shot just sort of flutters off to the right and up. I don't feel this is a result of construction, just of the pattern itself. I plan to try a Harrow 5 at some point soon as I have heard they are good blades - I just failed at getting the proper pattern. If anyone is interested in a Harrow 4 with about 10 minutes of warmup time only, hit me up.

[Chadd 916]

I have tried a LOT of different blades and the Reebok 11K is the ONLY one I've been really happy with. I had some blades go out in the first or second ice time (two Inno blades in a row back in 2008 when I first bought a tapered shaft). Others I've had the heel go out.

My Reebok 11K Datsyuk lasted probably 150 ice times before I retired it, and I still have it as a backup as the heel is STILL solid. I retired it because the toe has gone to shit (it's about 1" shorter now than it was new). Toe chipped away. I bought out hockeygiant's entire stock of 11K Reebok right handed Datsyuks when they last had them (lol only 3). I'm experimenting on my current one to try to keep the toe intact via either tape, epoxy, both, because if the toe on that blade hadn't died, I'd still be using it. It's still solid throughout.

Since finding the 11k the only other blade I've tried is a Harrow 4, which is supposed to be a datsyuk clone, but it doesn't work for me. Something about the blade shape - I can't shoot that bade. Every shot just sort of flutters off to the right and up. I don't feel this is a result of construction, just of the pattern itself. I plan to try a Harrow 5 at some point soon as I have heard they are good blades - I just failed at getting the proper pattern. If anyone is interested in a Harrow 4 with about 10 minutes of warmup time only, hit me up.

The Harrow #4 is a bit more of a toe than the Datsyuk. It was based on the original Recchi that was more of a mild toe than a mid curve.

[louierev07 31]

So just to follow up:

I ordered a Harrow Blade back around the time I started this thread. I used the blade for about 2-3 weeks (under 10 sessions), and the blade is already completely ruined.

First off, the blade seemed to be of high quality, and I was OK with the heavier weight, since I thought the tradeoff would be durability. And as far as the pattern goes - the 6 was pretty much identical to an Easton Hall.

In the two weeks before, the blade performed OK, but nothing great. The feel was good, but didnt seem to make contact as good as a mako blade felt, and not even close to the CCM rbz stage 2 blade that I have.

After playing last night, I noticed it felt dead, and once I looked under the tape, I could see that the blade completely cracked. There was a 6+ inch crack running from heel to toe. It also looked like the tape actually ripped off some of the clear coating keeping the blade protected.

Heres a pic:

and heres the full album if you wanna look through.

http://imgur.com/a/6d7Pr#0

Im still within the 30 days, so Im sending this one back, and hoping the next wont be as bad.

FWIW, the only other blade Ive cracked had a similar pattern of woven carbon fiber (Warrior Widow), so Im really not that hopeful that this blade will last.

One other thing that I should consider is that I regularly play at a covered outdoor rink - which is below freezing sometimes. Could this be why the blade cracked so quickly? It seemed ok for my game last Wednesday (indoors, and I retaped before the game), but by Monday it was completely ruined.

This hasnt been a problem with other blades, and I have even been using wood recently which has surprisingly lasted pretty long.

Lemme know what you guys think.

[Chadd 916]

Their blades used to be pretty durable, hopefully this is just a one bad blade. One of the guys on my team has been using his for over a year.

[louierev07 31]

Their blades used to be pretty durable, hopefully this is just a one bad blade. One of the guys on my team has been using his for over a year.

Well im gonna give it a shot again, but I honestly am just assuming its gonna break again.

Looking at the listing of the harrow blades, it lists: High-Modulus carbon graphite with woven carbon sleeve

I'm pretty sure this is the same covering that was on the warrior that broke so quickly on my widow stick (just outside of warranty).

Warrior lists it as: X-Stitch blade wrap carbon/aramid mix for increased durability and power transfer

Which im pretty sure is the same type of wrap.

I dont know if anyone else has this type of problem with these sticks, but I just dont get how they are supposed to be durable at all. My last mako blade was taken out of a broken one piece stick. It didnt have the dumb carbon fiber weave, and even in the places it chipped it seemed fine - to the point where I was even able to sand part of the toe to make it more rounded - with no negative side effects. If I were to try this with the harrow im pretty sure it would immediately break.

I know mako's last and are durable - but they seem to be pretty hard to find now. Anyone know of any other blades that are constructed the same? I know warrior widow blades were the weave - but how is the ax1?

And does anyone think the cold could have anything to do with it? I sometimes play in below freezing temps (-5 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit), and maybe thats what caused it?

[romdj 26]

Looking at the listing of the harrow blades, it lists: High-Modulus carbon graphite with woven carbon sleeve

I'm pretty sure this is the same covering that was on the warrior that broke so quickly on my widow stick (just outside of warranty).

Warrior lists it as: X-Stitch blade wrap carbon/aramid mix for increased durability and power transfer

Which im pretty sure is the same type of wrap.

I'm pretty sure this kind of wrap is used in basically all of carbon fiber blades....so nothing to see here imo

[louierev07 31]

Bumping to ask if anyone knows of any light tapered blades. Ive been weighing blades over the last few months, and this is what Ive found:

Easton 65s removed from OPS - iginla - 170g

Warrior widow - zetterberg - NO tenon from OPS (dagger taper) 125g

Easton stealth - iginla from OPS - 129

Easton RBZ stage 2 from OPS - hossa 124g

Easton eq50 wood - 148g

Easton mako - hall - 155g

Harrow pattern 6 - 158g

So comparing the easton stealth, warrior, and the rbz stage 2, theyre about ~30g lighter than the mako and harrow - which you can buy. If I had to guess how much my Area 51 pro stock is I'd probably say its around the same as well.

That extra weight isnt that bad - unless it throws the balance of the stick off. When puck handling, my hands are much faster with the lighter blades. It makes enough difference where I lose the puck more often. I dont have this problem when using a wood stick that is MUCH heavier, so it definitely comes down to a balance issue.

Ive only used Harrow, and easton blades, does anyone make a good and light tapered one? I know warrior was mentioned - how are those with weight? What about bauer? I really wish CCM would just sell the blade they have on the stage 2 by itself, because that has been my favorite so far.

I'm pretty sure this kind of wrap is used in basically all of carbon fiber blades....so nothing to see here imo

What does the Easton Mako blade use then? Because it seems very different than some others. i think CCM RBZ blades are similar too.