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louierev07 last won the day on March 1 2015

louierev07 had the most liked content!

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About louierev07

  • Birthday 06/15/1985


  • Skates
    Easton Mako 2 / Mako M8 w/ marsblade
  • Stick
    Sherwood EK15, True Euro pro 5.2, 75 flex
  • Gloves
    Warrior Covert DT2
  • Helmet
    Bauer 7500
  • Pants
    Bauer Nexus 800
  • Shoulder Pads
    Sherwood 5030 / CCM U+ CL
  • Elbow Pads
    Bauer Supreme One80
  • Shin Pads
    Easton Mako / Nexus 6000
  • Hockey Bag
    Sherwood EK15

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  1. So I've been contemplating swapping out cxn's for tuuks for a while. Finally did it today - really wish that I would have done this earlier. The difference for me was night and day, and after maybe 10 mins of adjusting my skating was back to the best its ever been. I had been making excuses why my skating hasnt been so good - because I dont play as much anymore, etc. I could not have been more wrong. Even just standing on them in my house before taking them on the ice I felt much better. Not sure if my top speed is any better or worse, but overall agility and backwards skating is 100x better. Just my 2 cents. If you have any questions Ill answer them.
  2. Ah i see. Pretty sure im gonna return my fenders and go with the blockers for now - they will be custom molded for makos, and hopefully will be a little less noticeable. I have had the mako 1, mako 2 and m8. Sizing for me was exactly the same for all. The mako 2 and m8 have more padding and a thicker tongue, which might make them seem a little smaller at first, but once theyre baked and broken in they are the exact same size. I would get whichever you can get the best deal on (m2 or m8). The m8 is pretty much identical to my mako 2. The mako 1 had some durability problems, and is known to tear up some ankles with the side rubbing. I paid 350 on ebay for brand new m8's, so look around for deals. Also I am not sure if easton still offers a testing period. Basically as long as you buy it from a certified dealer, you can return them in the first 30-60 days if you dont love them. Not sure if this promotion is still around - but if your not sure about the skates then this would be a good idea for you.
  3. Im considering ordering the blockers and returning the fenders since seeing that they are custom fitted to your skates. Do you have any info on skatefenders 2.0 or just speculating? If I decide to eventually go back to less protection, just keeping this would solve 90% of my shot blocking problems: I block a lot of shots off my shins and sometimes foot, so if I decide I hate wearing the full foot protection, or even if I decide to switch to vh customs or some other skate, I can still use this.
  4. Ordered some skate fenders yesterday, wont be in for my next game though, so praying I dont get hit in the same spot again. From spot where I got hit to the tip of my big toe is still numb and tingly in some spots. Starting to get black and blue under my foot and around the bruise. Thinking back, since Ive been playing all my most pain in the ass injuries came from taking shots off the boot (even before wearing makos), so im kinda excited to wear the fenders. Hopefully it doesnt make me look too bad out there, but if it means being able to walk/run after blocking shots im choosing looking like a dork over being hurt. Can you explain what you mean by energy return?
  5. So has anyone else had problems with protection with these? Im a winger, and have taken a few shots trying to cover my d-man, and they definitely hurt way more than when I was wearing my Vapors. Just took one tonight thats pretty swollen: Besides that and occasionally wanting to try out a tuuk again, I love these skates, so its definitely not enough to make me wanna switch, but I am starting to consider getting either a skate fender, or shot blocker. Anyone have any experience with either? My only concern is mobility, or them touching each other while turning. My skates are pretty much all blacked out, so I doubt that it would even look that bad. Is it something a lot of people use? Thinking back I cant recall seeing anyone else wear them in my leagues, or even at pickup. Like I said its not a huge problem, and im not a fan of using unnecessary stuff, but I have been running almost every day this summer, and now this swollen foot is gonna put me out of commission for a couple of days :(
  6. That could have been it - also from the conversions Ive done - not all nuts and bolts are the same. Some are a little bigger than others depending on the brand. because the bolt was so snug, the little bit of bending from the cutters was probably enough to make it a pain to get back in the nut. Im guessing I would have been fine using the bolts I use now (from bolt depot). EDIT: also just saw this dumb lifehack on reddit. Not sure if it would be better or worse for cutting bolts, but I figure id share it anway.
  7. I used this the first time, and the problem I had was after cutting, the end of the bolt would get kind of messed up, and would make it really hard for the bolt the "catch" the nut. So what I had to do was after every cut with the wire stripper, I would use a dremel to sand down the tip of my bolt so it would catch. Doesnt seem that hard, but do it like 30 times and it adds a ton of time to your conversion. Id rather just spend more money on a few different size bolts and save time.
  8. check my post from a page or so back. I made a video as well. Make sure you get the right length bolt because cutting them down and then sanding the tips is a pita.
  9. new mako 2 steel is pretty cheap compared to Bauer. I got mine from hockeymonkey - they didnt offer just the steel in my size, but I got the runner + holder for 60 (maybe less with coupon), which isnt too bad, plus I got an extra set of holders with it. Compared to Bauer which would be 140 for runner and holder (or 70 just for ls3 steel). IMO its a better option than a re-profile. How much does a profile cost compared to a new set of steel? Seems like a no-brainer to me as long as you like the stock profile.
  10. To the person with arch pain issue - Ive owned 3 pairs of makos now (mako 1 - warrantied because of mako bumps, mako 2 that I use for Ice now, and the mako m8 that I use for roller), and for the first week or so I got really bad arch pain with all three skates. Ive baked them all twice, and pushed out a few spots with a heat gun and my thumb (not the arch) - but I have zero arch pain now. I have seen in the video from easton to heat with a heatgun and push out with the other side of a screwdriver, but mine went away with just normal wear. I have a bone spur that caused me to bake twice and push out - not the arch thing. But my advice would be to try out the heat gun and press it out if nothing else. You will know its hot enough because the makos are EXTREMELY pliable when they are the right temp. Maybe even try rebaking before that- maybe you went a little too conservative on the first bake? Remember not to stand up with them.
  11. I got m8's for 400 new on ebay and converted them to rollerblades. I personally cannot tell the difference between the two. Maybe one is slightly heavier than the other? Idk. One uses carbon fiber, and one uses fiberglass - which might just mean the mako 2 will last a bit longer than the m8's. To be honest, for some reason the tounge on my m8's is actually nicer than my mako 2 tounge. Much thicker. But I noticed after I bought them, my M8's are difference than ones Ive seen listed online. Heres a pic: notice the black tongue. compared to m8s online:
  12. Yet another reason why I cant wait for the sparx home sharpener to come out. No matter where I get my skates done, they eventually look like banannas due to pressing at the beginning and end of the pass. Sparxx uses constant pressure so your blade shape does not change, and you get the same feel with a new blade vs an old blade (same amount of heel and toe).
  13. Before I did it myself my LHS said they could do it. I would still kinda read up on how to do it so you can give them instructions exactly how you want it. The biggest thing is lining up the wheels to be exactly where the blade was. I marked the spots on my boot even before taking my holder off, so maybe you could do the same before they do it. The other thing is centering it correctly from back to front. With sprungs you had to mount kind of towards the back of the skate - marsblade has no specific instructions like this afaik. My guess would be that you are supposed to get it as close to center as you can - but I like my skate a little more aggresive so I moved it slightly backwards (barely moved at all). Try to get someone whos experienced. I dont trust half the kids I see at hockeyshops to sharpen my skates, let alone drill into my boot.
  14. I thought about dremeling, but its just too many (~15-20), and then the threads get messed up just enough to make it a pain in the ass to screw in the bolt, so the oversize washers are fine. If there were a way to do them quick I would but whatever. I checked everywhere for short t-nuts, but all I found was one that had a picture of both and im guessing they dont actually send both. http://www.amazon.com/Prong-Nut-8-32-Tee-Qty/dp/B00BOEKQSM (wtf is that? Which one am i getting?!!!?) @Z1ggy Ill post a pic when I get home tonight. Its weird because you need more oversize washers than youd think. At first it looked like 2 would have been more than enough, but I ended up using three big washers on most, and even 4 on the very front where the outsole is the thinnest.
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