Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[Iceblade 0]

Thanks.

Regs,

Jeff

[Svatos37 0]

Well it worked for me. I pulled the blade out of an ST, 2 adrenalines, and a synergy Si-Core.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Wow, howd you do it with the eastons? Were they pro stock?

[Ogie 0]

I tried this with a Xn10 OPS, and it worked great. Feeling kind of impressed with myself, I tried the same thing with an ST that had a bad blade. It didn't work at all. I ended up cutting off the blade, and trying the hammer method. That didn't work, so i tried heating up the "plug" (part with the foam and the ribs) to pull it out; by the time the glue started to melt, the back side of the shaft began to separate. Needess to say, it was a very unsuccessful attempt. I could still cut down the shaft a bit more, add an end plug, and have a stick, but it would be pretty stiff for me.

[Iceblade 0]

Yeah, this stick is already a 110 and I hate it. At the time I had really really needed a stick and this modano Synergy 110 was all they had in a RH so I got it. Next purchase is an 85 Z-Bubble grip.

So you really got a Synergy blade to pop out? Wow.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Iceblade 0]

Just FYI, snagged a Synergy II tapered blade. Cut the Synergy OPS right around the I and N in "pendINg". Tiny piece of foam was left in the shaft... fell right out. Heated the blade, popped it right in. I'll try it out before my game tomorrow night. I'll let everyone know what I think.

Later,

Jeff

[HotBacon 0]

I bought an already cut down Synergy SL from ebay. I would think it was cut an inch or so high based on the posts in this thread, but my CCM V130 blade slides in rather snugly. I moved it around before the glue cooled and noticed a tiny bit of front to back movement (mostely due to the taper in the shaft not contacting the part of the blade hosel that is inside, like in an untapered shaft). Has anyone else noticed this?

I pulled it before it cooled thinking it was too loose...would adding a layer of tape tighten this up? Also, the tape should be at the bottom of the tenon that goes into the shaft as opposed to the top...right?

[LoXish 0]

I did a search, as I'm sure there has to be a post like this, but couldn't find one at all... so, if you know of one, let me know.

I found a synergy that the blade broke on just after the heel... I want to cut it down and put a tapered synthesis blade in it...

Will that work?

[oggy_3 0]

yeah as long as you dont cut it to high up.

[LoXish 0]

Any rule of thumb on where to cut it? And beyond that, technique?

[oggy_3 0]

i jsut start cuting a little bit off and until i can get it in i ahve no technique but theres prolly one.

[LoXish 0]

What do you use to cut, and to make sure you get it even and smooth, clean?

[Project_2501 0]

I used one of those pipe cutting hack-saws there when I chopped up my M-1.

[LoXish 0]

So, a metal/pipe saw to the shaft in increments until the blade fits...

That sounds a little touch and go...

Some of you guys who work at LHS, what's the technique?

Thanks for your input, Project, Oggy -- no offense meant.

[donkey87 0]

Find the fuse point where the blade is fused to the shaft. It is a line several inches above the heel of the blade. Cut at the line, then hollow out the inside of the shaft. If you don't want to spend time hollowing out the shaft, cut at the fuse point and then cut of a little bit of the shaft until it reaches a point where it is hollow.

[LoXish 0]

THanks Donkey, do this via metal/pipe saw, as stated?

[donkey87 0]

THanks Donkey, do this via metal/pipe saw, as stated?

A hack-saw will work fine, but I like to use a mitre box to make sure that I get a straight cut.

[LoXish 0]

Well, I succeeded. I saw waht I thought was the fusion point, but there was also a faint line lower down on the blade. After three cuts and some hollowing, I figured out the initial line was, in fact, the fusion point. I cut mybe... 1/8" behind that and it came out perfectly. Used a hack saw and then used a grinder to smooth it all out, even it out...

Put a synthesis blade in it and it feels wonderful.

On a side note, inside the shaft, in one of the corners, there was a build up/bubble of composite deposite that I had to shave out.

But, other than that, not bad for a free shaft.

[DamnLocust 0]

I've cut down about 6 or 8 OPS already, but most for standard blades. I still like to have a straight butt-end, however, and the band saw that I usually use to cut the sticks tends to cut quite croooked. To even everything out, I usually sand down the edges until they're straight. It takes a lot of time, but it's a lot more precise than the grinder IMO.

[LoXish 0]

Yeah, I can see that. I think I got a little lucky, my initial cut was very straight and flat -- so using the grinder to even it out didn't entail too much detail work, and it leveled out really well. I'll keep your recommendation in mind next time I have to do it.

By and by, the red Synergy, an older stick, what year is it? It's a grip, says it clocks in at 455 grams...

Hmm, just wondering how old it is. It came out when I wasn't playing, I'm sure. But it's better than my Hespeler Patriot shaft.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Thats the si core grip. 2003

[LoXish 0]

Righto, I guessed it was ~3 years old.

I'm happy, although we lost our game, it was a good way to counterbalance that.

[sniper_23 0]

Do you guys have pointers for cutting an XXX lite to fit tapered blades?

Thanks!

[LoXish 0]

I would think you would do the same thing I did. find the fusion point, it's an obvious line around the shaft a few inches above the heel. Vice that shit down and cut it with a hacksaw, cut it right above the fusion point... clean it out, sand it off, even it off, etc. and so on, slide a blade in and go for it.

[donkey87 0]

I would think you would do the same thing I did. find the fusion point, it's an obvious line around the shaft a few inches above the heel. Vice that shit down and cut it with a hacksaw, cut it right above the fusion point... clean it out, sand it off, even it off, etc. and so on, slide a blade in and go for it.

Since the XXX lite is a true OPS there won't be a fuse line. Your best bet is to use a tapered blade as a guide. Line the blade up with the stick and use it to estimate a location to cut it at.