Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[LoXish 0]

Oh, didn't know it was a true OPS -- still learning which models are which.

What other new sticks are true OPS?

[TBLfan 25]

I know the XXXs are too.

[Project_2501 0]

Also obviously the XXX-Lite, the Inno True-1 and equivelant Warrior stick (Mac Daddy?).

[DamnLocust 0]

Also obviously the XXX-Lite, the Inno True-1 and equivelant Warrior stick (Mac Daddy?).

yes, mac daddy=true-1 + pretty (by warrior standards, anyway) paint

[Fixxer 0]

1st off what type of blades do they take? Standard or tapered?

Also do you think if I brought it to say great skate they would cut it for me?

I'd rather someone experienced do it that take a chance at messing the stick up.

[DamnLocust 0]

it's pretty simple to do, there are TONS of threads on here. try searching for info on "cutting OPS" with the quotation marks.

If you cut and flip the shaft over, you can usually put a standard blade in the handle. If you cut at the right place, you can use a tapered blade. some OPS (TPS, Inno/Warrior, some Bauers) can actually be heated to remove the blade.

[Chadd 916]

Jesus guys, the search tool does actually work.

Start here:

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?ac...ighlite=cutting

A little reading should answer most of your questions.

[msander 0]

Ok, I've edited this topic because I want to cut this thing to fit tapered blades. However, I can't find the instructions for how to do it. I'm sure someone has cut an SL and can tell me where I should make the cut. I cut of the blade and have been inching up closer to where I'm fairly certain the fuse point is, but the appearance has not changed...the inside of the shaft still appears to be how it looked lower down...I'm not sure if I should start chiseling or if I keep cutting a bit higher up it will change. Suggestions?

[Swiss17 0]

Just flip the stick over and put a standard blade in that end, then cut where you need to at the blade. Only problem is you cant put a butt end in.

[blueliner27 12]

I had tried that before with my ccm vector v110 one. It wouldn't work with a standard blade. If you really want to put standard blade, not just flipping the stick, you might want to cut hosel a lot narrower. Also, you need to shape inside of the shaft, meaning to get rid of bumps inside. Use long screws to cut (shape) inside the shaft. ;)

[TBLfan 25]

why don't you try the vector 5.0 blade. It's tapered and is a blade that can be used for street hockey. It's kinda like a v40 blade but tapered.

[msander 0]

If I wanted to put in a tapered blade, does anyone know exactly where I'd cut the stick off at? I can't simply cut, chisel and test it because I don't have a tapered blade with me. I'm going back to the city for school in a day and I don't have the tools there to do it either. I think for a ball hockey league, it's not worth the trouble of making it into a tapered shaft. Any negatives (aside from not having a tapered shaft) associated with flipping the stick and popping the blade in the butt end?

[TBLfan 25]

the kickpoint of the shaft won't be right and the handle will be smaller(thinner).

[pat19 0]

can you heat and pull out the blade of a vapor xx or cut it so you can put tapered blades in it?

[TBLfan 25]

I think you have to cut and/or chisel it out.

[DamnLocust 0]

I thought that you could heat/pull blades from a Vapor XX. It's basically an Inno 1100, and you can do it with both those and the Dolomites. I know for a fact it was possible with the old Tri-Flexes, my friend did it.

As far as messing up the kickpoint, I've used my fair share of cut n flip jobs for outdoor roller, and never had an issue with the way the stick flexed or with the kickpoint. Maybe I just can't tell the difference. I actually preferred the thinner shape of the handle on those shafts, but I also love my easton cyclone.

[TBLfan 25]

you might be right, but for some reason I thought that the vapor XX was a cut and chisel. *shrug*

IDK, I probably wouldn't notice too much of a difference in the flex(depending on the stiffness) but the smaller grip would drive me nuts.

Personally, if it was me I'd either a) make it a tapered shaft or B) sell/trade it

[Overtime 0]

Screw the kick point ! Nothing would be affected but a lost of a tapered shaft. Like someone said already the only problem is the tapered end would not accept a end plug therefore there is a small chance that the shaft might be too short however there is not but not a big chance un lesss you use a short hossel standard blade. Anyways thats the path i chose and never looked back (my flipped sl with wood blade is my hardest shooting stick. )

ps. Almost forgot if you decide to flip it the handle would feel a bit thin.

[DamnLocust 0]

you could easily shave down the tenon of an end plug to make it fit, and if desired, shave the plug itself down to match the shaft itself. I did this with my SL shaft.

If you don't like the thin feel, wrap a lot of tape around it to make up for the difference.

[pat19 0]

It's basically an Inno 1100, and you can do it with both those and the Dolomites.

so are dolomites the same as vapor xx's pretty much?

[DamnLocust 0]

the original vapor XX was made for bauer by inno. The blade is constructed differently from the dolomite and is a touch heavier.

I'm not sure what, if anything, Bauer may have changed in the newer XXs since I don't believe inno still makes them.

[CanuckFan 0]

Try cutting it 4 inches from the "L" where it says EASTON SL, then you'll still have to chiesel some out. I put in a SYNTHESIS wood blade, works great!

[Swiss17 0]

I flipped mine and had no trouble putting a standard blade in it, and if you tape the top you cant really notice it being thinner.

[odp 0]

Mine is 6 inches from the L in SYNERGY SL, right in the middle of the 3rd ), in the ( E ) ) ) ). I lost about a 1/2 inch because I was sloppy. Mind you, the graphics probably vary - and I don't have a complete SL to compare it to.

Oh yeah, mine was an SL grip, if it helps.

[Rustpot 1]

The guy at my LHS in Houghton cut mine, no chiseling required

Here's how the tapered hosel Easton blade compares to a Bauer standard

The SL extension starts at the first rib up the grip, and the standard shaft extension is about at the first rib down on that grip

Edit: Stick was a Pro Stock with a broken blade I snagged from the trash after a college WCHA Div 1 game, Northern v. Mich Tech