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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/06/16 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    "Because the base layer is protected the abrasive" - I'm kind of struggling to understand this sentence. Lets assume it was meant to be "Because the base layer is protected by the abrasive" then it isn't really talking about the abrasive at all. It's talking about the base layer. I'd expect the base layer to retain its shape, it's the profile of the abrasive after 200 passes that I would be interested in. But on the other hand lets assume somehow the sentence is about the abrasive and it's profile is always "PERFECT". As an engineer who has spent a lot of years working with abrasives I find this particularly hard to swallow. You have a product that by the very nature of its work wears away every time it is used. Let alone the fact that the entire surface of the profile of the grinding wheel is not in contact with the skate blade (the outer edges do not contact, do these just mysteriously evaporate away?) you have minute variations in the shape of the hollow of the blade that causes + / - grind resistance as the wheel does it work. And if you ever changed your hollow then this would only magnify the issue. Otherwise what they are saying is they have invented an abrasive that never changes shape during it's life span, its wear is even and consistent REGARDLESS of the shape of the surface it is in contact with. If this is the case then they are wasting their time making skate sharpeners, I can think of a dozen better applications they could put this technology to use with...
  2. 1 point
    First, cut off some wood timbers to 15.5*25.5*145mm. This is just my geometry. If you want more long grip, you need extension as you want. The square,15.5*25.5 is much important number. So I cut a timber little big and after change it slowly with something like plane or files. After all, cut some corners off if as the wooden core can be set in your silicone mold. Make silicone mold of your master piece. It's better to coating your master with primer/surfacer because resin have construction factor. Before casting, coat wooden core with something like varnish to prevent bubbling. Set wooden core into the silicone mold and cast epoxy resin. Now as you know I'm considering to order my new sticks. I bought a QRL stick from my local shop though, I can test it under very average environment. I'm feeling it was really good work for my hockey life.



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