Mimizk

Thank you Buzz, ProSharp is great company. In this case, I'd like to make sure about what you would have recommended me. Your pasted link shows a leather horn. But also ProSharp uses a ceramic horning stone before that to deburr for the coating blade. So I guess the ProSharp's leather horn / leather strop works as wipe off the slightly stayed burr at last rather than main deburring. Do you use the ProSharp leather horn alone? Or with ceramic horning stone?

Thank you guys, I've read your posts. To sum it up... 1) It can deburr with cheaper thing even if it is a gummi like material stone. 2) So there is less value to pay expensive money for genuine stones for example SPARX or STEP's. 3) Fine ceramic honing stone is also better as gummi stone. ...right?

I'm going to buy a honing stone which can be used for coated skate blades like STEP Black Steel. I could find some rubber or clay honing stones below though, which one is better choice? I'd like to hear someone's favorite. 1) SPARX "Coated Steel Kit" 2) Max-Performance Sports "Clay Honing Stone for Hockey Blacksteel Runners" 3) Wholesale Skate Sharpening "Blacksteel Hone - Rubber" 4) CCM (STEP) "Honing Stone & Cloth Kit" 5) Nash Sports "Black Steel Honing Stone"

I don't intend to talk something about these but I post these documents on here to expect that it would help someone. (I made these documents to explain about FBV for my friend; forgive me if somewhere is wrong) The last one is an edge comparison picture using real edge angle of all xx/50 spinners but please note that the colors are not matching with the other charts. Just I've used color gradation to make the illustration be clear.

Also I was confused by the mismatch between the genuine TRUE holders and VH boots' outsole. Oppositely, compatibility with CCM XS holders is really good. It looks like "true" genuine holder for the VH boots. + genuine TRUE holders + CCM SpeedBlade XS holders

I've started using my 4th VH skates. These pair have completely granted my wishes. I'm really satisfied with them. Especially "built in medial shims" solved problems that have caused by external shims which I have used on past my VH boots. The compatibility between VH boots and CCM holders is also great. No longer I don't feel any negative points except heavy weight. Options: 1) Enhanced side wall protection 2) Metatarsal tongues 3) Built-in heel lift shims (+3mm) 4) Built-in medial shims (+3mm) 5) Additional instep volume control 6) CCM SpeedBlade XS holders 271 7) Sidas Conformable insoles 8) 72" unwaxed laces

I've been using a lot of pairs of Warrior franchise gloves. I really love them. Then I want to repair its gusset leather. Usually I use my local shop to repalm the palm leather only. But the shop can't repair gusset leather because they can't supply gusset leather themselves. I know that some famous repalming shops can repair gusset. They supply the gusset leather by themselves by cutting it off from sheet leather. My local shop answered me that maybe they can repair if they can get the material. So I want to buy the material leather, but I can't find it out. Is it the true name of the leather that the "Nash" or "Micronash"? For example I can find "Clarino" leathers on the internet stores because it is a true name of the leather which has created and named by Kuraray Inc. But I can't find "Nash" leather. Anyone knows some good stores who deal with "Nash" or "Micronash" leather?

Just made up my newest version of copy-grip. I'm glad that I could make it in this year.

Sorry I couldn't understand well what I have been said. I took this picture from toe. Then also inserted little thicker one to medial side of the front, little thinner one to rear as same.

To change the medial shims thickness of back and forth is not my thinking. Holder's back and forth have different height. For example if you want to change holder's angle 1 degree to outside, lower front must need thicker shim than higher back. If you use the same height shims only, skate holder will be twist. I guess maybe people can use, skate normally with twisted holder. But I don't think to do such not accurate adjustment because even tuner doesn't understand correctly what he doing.

Sounds good. If my memory is correct, Scott doesn't recommend to use T-nuts for VH boots because it hurts carbon fiber. I bought an own riveter for my better hockey life but this is too much story, I also think. Only a thing which I have to mention you is that Bont wedge (I'm also a cyclist) is not perfect. 1st, cycling wedges have been made for cycling shoes and its cleat is too narrower against wide hockey boots and its holder. The wedges don't reach side to side of holder's mount. Then 2nd, we have to change the height of medial shims back and forth. For example the picture which I pasted on my former post using 1mm back and 2mm front. This is able to known if you calculate. Scott is a great man. Perhaps you will not need to do any adjustment or countermeasure if you get your VH skates. In fact, now I've not been using any medial side shims on my VH skates.

Sorry I'm not a pro fitter and also English is not my native language. So I couldn't understand all of what you are saying. But if you have been feeling uncomfortable, I think probably you can solve your problem by your sense. Because it means that you will be able to feel if your skate setting would be changed to suitable condition for your legs. Then I suggest you that using medial shims. Can you see the shim which is inserted into medial side only in this picture? You wrote about figure skate fitters though, figure skate's edge holders are narrower compared to its boots' sole. So there is enough spaces to adjust right and left. But our hockey edge holders are mounted fully on the boots' sole. And its rivet must be on suitable width of boot's inside sole. It's hard to adjust holders by sliding for pronation. So often we using medial/cant shims for O/X legs. Yes I became very good with the same countermeasure. And I think another strong point of this method is that being able to restore if only put the shims out between holder and boot. There is a reversibility. Also you can try different moving amounts constantly and gradually.

First, cut off some wood timbers to 15.5*25.5*145mm. This is just my geometry. If you want more long grip, you need extension as you want. The square,15.5*25.5 is much important number. So I cut a timber little big and after change it slowly with something like plane or files. After all, cut some corners off if as the wooden core can be set in your silicone mold. Make silicone mold of your master piece. It's better to coating your master with primer/surfacer because resin have construction factor. Before casting, coat wooden core with something like varnish to prevent bubbling. Set wooden core into the silicone mold and cast epoxy resin. Now as you know I'm considering to order my new sticks. I bought a QRL stick from my local shop though, I can test it under very average environment. I'm feeling it was really good work for my hockey life.

I don' know well about the situation of power balance in north america though, I really felt as same when I heard about Bauer's default story on this forum. How Bauer is disliked by many people... I've been using Step steel on my boots for these few years. I really like its V-Steel grade because I trust polished side face make good durability of the edges. But if I will have any chances to try Tydan Edge, also I'm interested in it. If I was a user of coating edges, perhaps I chose Tydan rather than Step. I ordered a pair of V-Steel 263 for LSE holder on my local shop. Maybe it will be arrived on middle of next month.

I got an news from Step. They have started selling LSE runner last week in Canada. This will eat certainly amount of share of Tydan, I think.

I've contacted with Step directly. They answered as they can't open the material information more detail than they have been provided from Sandvik. So I can't say whether LS3 and Step steel using the same steel for their each products.

I've read the sentences of JR shows. Certainly it explains that Bauer uses Sandvik steel. I know the name of Sandvik well on the metal tool world rather than hockey equipment seen. They have been producing high quality steels but there are so much kinds. If Sandvik provide 12C27 stainless steel for Bauer, how about Step's material? Do you think Step uses the same steel as Bauer? Tydan says they re-temper LS3 steel before selling. Tempering is very important thing for all of knifes, and also it can be said for hockey runners, I think. It changes feeling if the same material was used.

I'm wondering that what steel Tydan uses for their products. Tydan announces on the web site that using Sandvik co.'s 12C27 steel. For example as same Step using Sandvik steel for their product too. But also Tydan says that using LS3 or LS4 runner for their product and re-temper or make coating it before selling. How should I understand this? Does it mean that just Bauer uses Sandvik 12C27 steel for LS3 or 4 runners?

In generally, 99.9% local shops don't have "copy machine" which can copy A's profile and output it to B runner. So probably the most closest thing with your wish is that to find a CCM runner of your size from anywhere and trace it onto radius contoured LS3 steel with a pen or spray, then contour again by free hand according to the traced line.

57g... I don't know its wood kinds but the general wooden plug we can buy our local hockey shop with the same length as my copy grip. 46g... The origin wooden grip which was made from 5*5cm some kinds of ash wood timber. All wood, no resin. 62g... One of the copy grip which you can see my put photo, the brighter color one. Some kind of pagoda tree and resin covering. 76g... The other one of the grip on the photo. Darker one. Lace wood with resin covering. If want to prevent being going to heavy or coming babbles up, coat the wood core before casting. But it's troublesome for me...X)

The amount of end grip is not big. So I can't say this heavy though, also can't say light against general end grips which have been sold in local hockey shops. Because its wood core vacuumed much of epoxy resin until resin would harden. And also probably you can see babbles around top of the end grip. This is not came when I did casting, but also had taken slow times and came out from inside of wooden core instead of infiltrated epoxy resin.

I've made some end grips which have exactly the same shape. Wooden core and epoxy resin covering. I usually bring 3 sticks to the game and each sticks have been cut at different length. Then I choose one from that according to my feeling after warmup. But I noticed that I felt shorter one as long and longer one as short by very slightly difference of my end grip. So I decided to make this copy grips. I don't know whether this is really true though, I heard that usually people call such this method as "insert casting". I will make 4 or more copy grip for my ice and floor sticks. Already bought many different kinds of timber. So also looking forward to see another beauty wood grains :)

I have been thinking the same thing long time. The lacross elbow pads looks so mobile but someone told me as that lacross elbows don't have enough protection for playing hockey safety. How do you feel about this point? I want to hear your opinion.

I've found this photo on Instagram. The person who uploaded this photo is a pro hockey player and have been using X02 and some spinners include this one for 2~3years. Usually he sharpen only his skates. Also he is troubled with vibration of X02. I've seen the construction of X02 for the first time though, I can't stop to say its design is so bad. I guess, the spindle and bearing settings are DIY level... X01/02 use small grinding stones, so it needs more rev than 8inch sharpeners. General thinking, we may think it should be needed reinforcement of spindle unit, but this machine is opposite.