Vet88

You hit the nail on the head there, it does get worse and more noticeable as you get older.

It's not that it doesn't happen, it's how fast. My Bauer eyelets on my one100's are slowly giving up, I've had 8 replaced so far. However on Reeboks and CCM's I have replaced eyelets within a year and had to do the whole boot. Like for the player above, I sweat a lot and this destroys shitty eyelets really fast and normal eyelets over time. If you have had your Bauers for years and had no issues you will most likely be ok with CCM or Reeboks for many years. There are eyelets out there that don't react to sweat, Alkali used them in their top of the line inline boots (CA9's) and these eyelets were bulletproof.

Huh? there is no "minimum" speed to maintain balance. You can start a cross over from a standing start, you can cross over whilst barely moving and you can cross over at full speed. These are the extremes but they are all possible if your balance and edge control is good enough. Yes, you can't lean in and maintain a deep edge when crossing over very slowly but that isn't the purpose of the drill. As most players find, it is much harder to maintain correct form and balance when doing things very slow as opposed to normal speed.

The red foam will cover the area from where the liner ends on one side to the liner on the other side. It doesn't cover the roof of the toe cap. This is used primarily to prevent any carbon splinters getting into your toes and as a comfort addition, it is a finishing product they use.

The slotted holder works ok as long as you can torque it down enough which is why I always use t-nuts when doing it this way. I don't trust rivets to hold. Backfilling the holes with epoxy or a u shaped washer will also help although it is harder to backfill holes in the holder than it is in the boot, there just isn't much thickness in the base of the holder and the holder can flex as you torque it down. Filling the holes in the boot with epoxy first does help when it comes to drilling the new ones. I also use thin copper shims each side of the new holes to help hold the epoxy in place once the rivets go back in. One of the biggest issues you will face is the hit and miss nature of this. Either you moved it too far or not enough and have to rip all the rivets out again and fill and redrill etc etc to have another go. If you are going to do it you should spend a little more time and effort. Try and get a second hand holder, one that you can butcher with slots. Compare the 2 holders, take note of any offsets in the hole positions. Mark the centers. Take your current holder off and fit t-nuts to the boot. Attach the slotted holder and go for skates, moving it a little at a time as you try to find the right spot. If you don't trust the t-nuts just don't do any hard turns or stops (although this is the method figure use and very rarely do they slip), they will hold well enough for straight line skating and balance drills. Once you are comfortable with what you have, measure the change then drill new holes to this measurement and rivet your original holder back on. We have tried plates before but the extra height threw the skaters off. In figure the fitter should have a holder your size with slots in it that will go onto your boot, this makes finding the right position for the holder under your boot a reasonably easy process.

That is about the only option. Or you might get away with enlarging the hole in the holder, I have done this to a number of Graf Ultra 5000 holders but it is dependant on how the holes were placed at manufacturing time (they are often drilled slightly offset from center and if they are too close to the edge you can't enlarge them). No one has released a holder for ice hockey that allows you to move it sideways before attaching it (other than MLX). Now if you have a 3D printer and want to have a go at printing one....

Oops, yes, Raynauds. It effects joints / limbs with different levels of severity. You can have it in your fingers really bad but toes very mild, I've even seen a left hand where 3 fingers went white / cold but the right hand was reasonably ok.

Not so, doing crossovers at slow speed is a basic training drill for them. Slowing it down forces you to spend more time on your edge and therefore to have more control and balance on the edge. If you can't do them slowly it's just a basic sign that your technique is poor.

Could be a mild form of Reynars syndrome. I have this and after battling with cold, numb toes on an early morning skate (powerfoot inserts made no difference) I finally got hold of some Hothands hand warmers (search Amazon). These work brilliantly to keep your toes warm, I put them on top of my toes / forefoot. Yes, it costs around $1 per skate (local currency) but for the sake of warm toes I happily pay it and always carry them in my bag now. Now I can spend 6 hours+ on the ice with no issues even in the middle of winter.

imho your biggest issue is you have no control of your outside edge. Watch how when you transfer weight onto it during the crossover you shorten your stride. This is because you have no confidence in the edge and if you spend any longer on it you will become unbalanced so you instinctively shorten the stride to spend as little time as possible on the edge. If you want a couple of simple drills to help improve and reinforce your outside edge control send me a pm. You will never be able to crossover properly until you have outside edge control.

ezyfit booties in the 2mm thickness also work well. Or heat the inside rear quarter, put your foot in and lace up then lie on the floor and have someone stand on the heated area in bare feet (no shoes on). The boot will form around your ankle. Wait 24 hours then do the outside rear quarter. If you supinate do the outside first. Or you can try and heat the boot then wrap it tight with a bandage. Or heat and clamp. Or heat and wrap and clamp.

This. I would never, ever trust the scan on it's own. If there was one piece advice I could give to every person looking to get customs it would be this. Make sure you measure up your feet (ideally with a Brannock or something similar that will give you a correct foot length and width) and that the measurements are included in the notes. If the scan data and the notes / physical measurements don't line up then someone should be contacting you to sort things out BEFORE they begin the build.

Oops, my bad in forgetting to give recognition where due. imho it's one of the best pieces of information posted in a long long time, thanks very much.

Here is what CCM offer for full custom, you can add up to 1/2 an inch in the areas you want it in (see page 10). https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3A99faf809-3ff8-4da8-9215-a99efb416702 My LHS tell me the Bauer option is similar but we are waiting for confirmation as this is the first time he has ordered skates like this.

It's your feet and by the sounds of it you now what works and what doesn't. Whilst the pencil test ISN'T a guarantee that you will / won't get lace bite it's a damn good start in the place of any other reliable information and a pile of bs from a fitter / scan. By the sounds of it you have feet that about 10% of the population have and that are not catered for in todays retail ranges, narrow ankles, deep volume. Putting aside tongue changes or eyelet extenders, customs are the only answer. My understanding is that you can get the volume increased in full Bauer or CCM customs but you can only have traditional eyelets and it has to be on the notes and you need to get it confirmed by the manufacturer BEFORE the order starts (I am working thru this now with my LHS for full Bauer customs with this kind of fit, vapour heel, nexus depth).

Haha, so true. And you would not believe the number of people who have asked me for a stick with a "flat" or "roundish" curve. I ask then what curve they currently use and they hand me their stick........

Ha, all I had to do was search. 3 on 1/2, most common is 5/8, large variation from shallowest to deepest.

A couple of years ago the Pens sharpening roster was posted here, if I recall correctly only 3 were on 1/2" and a couple of others on 5/8". There was no common hollow, the variation was large across the playing roster.

Your custom skates were made too big (for arguments sake lets say they are 2 sizes out), they get sent back to be fixed and get returned with the toe box stuffed with a rubber material and the sides compressed inwards to make them narrower. The fit is now ok (putting aside the holder and steel length) but is this an acceptable solution for custom made skates? - Would you, as a customer, accept it or request that the skates were made to the correct size? - Would you as a fitter or shop owner be comfortable selling this to a customer? - Would you as an agent of the skate manufacturer be happy that this product is an accurate representation of the quality and product produced by the company? Lets face it, if this scenario played out in a shop for a retail skate we all know what the customer's response would be : customer: I'm looking for a size 9 skate. LHS: I don't have any in stock but I do have a size 11. Let me pack the toes and squash the sides together so it will fit you........

Quite possibly so but when the shop puts information like "Current skates Bauer size 5" on the order and the True skates turn up the equivalent of Bauer size 7 (and then the remade left skate the equivalent of a Bauer size 6+) then I'm not sure how much more a shop can do........

I don't know if that is the answer. True have already acknowledged that the first set of skates was their mistake, not the shop. Yes, the shop could possibly have done more to help him in the later stages but there is also more to this than smu has described here. The shop has worked with him to try and make the skates right. But what the shop does next will be key. if they are not going to get on the ph to True demanding answers and another skate remake then yes, I'd be looking to go elsewhere.These skates need to be perfect now, not just close. (btw, did I mention that the new steel is bent but that is the least of his problems atm).

For me I say yes, particularly if there is interaction between the players in the skill set. There are a number of reasons why: 1: you want the skill to be performed as fast as possible and at the highest skill level possible 2: by having players split by skill, the lesser skilled players are not pressured to screw up and the better players engage more knowing they are more likely to be the ones that screw up. 3: the lesser skilled players should know what they have to work on and can be given specific skills to do this. 4: they also can see how a skill is done at speed and a high level, watching encourages learning. Later on in the training session you bring them together for combined drills etc but isolation by skill level is an important part of training. Now I know that for some parents in this "pc friendly everyone must participate" world this isn't the flavour of the month but the fact of the matter is this, if your kid was good enough they would be training with the higher skilled group.

He has but its not a good result, for some unknown reason the left was made 1/2" longer than the right... He needs to be in the shop on the phone to True to find out why, something must be wrong with the scan data as both his feet are the same length. and imho they need to remake the left skate again, not just pad the toe with foam.

Orthotics in ice skates do not fix pronation. In a shoe the orthotic has the ground to provide the support it needs to shape the foot. In an ice skate a 1/8" wide piece of steel does not provide the support the orthotic needs so your foot will still pronate. You need to either 1: move the holder inwards 2: shim the outside of the holder 3: learn to skate with your laces undone 4: buy the stiffest boots you can with the narrowest heel you can fit into and when they start to open up after a short while then buy a new pair. Anyone who wants to sell you orthotics on the premise that it will fix your pronation in ice skates is just selling a dream.

Hopefully it is just a blade issue. If not I have seen it caused by a change of boot and how that impacts on the way your foot / balance / alignment works in the skate. If this is the case there is no quick fix if you want to stay in them. If you were in my class I'd have you dropping eyelets and learning where the edge is without the help of the boot. Circle drills / figure 8's and focus on spending as long a time as you can on the outside edge, try to collapse the foot over the edge as you balance on it so you start to learn where the point of no return exists for you. Practice is key but if your practice is not pushing your edge control and getting you to learn where the edge is you will just keep making the same technical mistakes over and over. A deeper hollow is not the answer. I can honestly say I have been in your position, my outside edge turning right in my G5's, 0ne100's and other skates was not the greatest but when I swapped to apx2's it was ok. Circumstances forced me to go lace free which is when I realised how poor my edges actually were. Now I have really deep edges regardless of what skates I put on including my G5's and One100's.