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Vet88

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Everything posted by Vet88

  1. Vet88
    Was going to do it on Monday at my next coaching session but got cross checked into the boards today and bust my shoulder, lol McDavid has good company! Will be a couple of weeks before I'm back on the ice, will let you know when I get it done unless I can get one my students to do it earlier.
  2. Vet88
    Skill wise you can become really good, age really isn't the issue but time, time that you can commit to the game and quality practices. The hardest part to accept is your engine, as you get older you can't go as hard or as quick or as aggressively and then everyone starts to beat you so you start doing dirty things to try and make up for it or playing deeper to create a 1/2 second or so more of reaction time for yourself (which just gives the opposition player more room to beat you with!) As to your backward skating you have come along really well but I'd be asking you to do a lot more one foot balance work. As you skate your knees are well bent but you are folding them inwards to much and splaying your feet out to wide. This means you are skating heavily on your inside edge so every time you go to cross over you have to roll your foot over the top of the blade to take the step. There is a drill I get my learners to do where they skate backwards in a circle and take really small 1/4 cross over steps, almost like running backwards on the spot and making the feet move as fast as they can. By rapidly repeating the weight transfer from one foot to the other your muscle memory improves much faster, you reinforce the balance point on the toes for backward skating and you very quickly start to get your feet under your shoulders and hips and therefore more upright on the blade. If you want an example I could do a vid next week. Backward bubble c cuts, bubbles in a circle, one foot slaloms and edges, these are the basics that you can never do enough of - keep it up you going well.
  3. Vet88
    It depends what team you are playing in, if you all have the same equal ability then you could play anywhere but lets assume most of the others in the team know how to skate a little bit better than you. To be D you must be able to skate backwards and do it well. A center needs a big engine and ideally be a good skater. This leaves wing and is where most people start as you do the least damage when you get things wrong. Try really hard to work on your positioning, being in the right place at the right time is half the battle and you don't need to be a great skater to bang in the rebound or cut the pass off back to their D man on point. Try to find a starter league, you will enjoy it more and have fun. it's really hard starting the game playing in a team / league where everyone knows how to play.
  4. Vet88
    To really improve your shooting mechanics you need to do off ice work. I'd recommend that you Invest in a shooting pad, a tape 2 tape kit (google it), a tarp (to shoot at unless you have the luxury of setting up a goal somewhere) and pucks. Shoot 200 pucks a day, nothing else will improve your shooting / passing quicker than this when off ice. If you are serious about getting better it is worth the money spent and the time you will put into it.
  5. Vet88
    Well done, you only have to look at this and your previous video to see how much you have improved. As you seem to be training on your own (it's a great way to train, a rink to yourself) find drills that are really hard to do or that you have never done before. Push yourself to learn these, don't keep doing the same thing over and over except the basics (inside/outside edges and c cuts, these or similar themes should be the staple start of any hockey training). Push yourself outside your comfort zone to broaden your skill base and therefore learn quicker. Ask your coach if you can get a new drill/ skill each week for you to practice on during times you are not getting coaching. As I mentioned before, the iTrain teach the trainer videos are a great starting point.
  6. Vet88
    I've helped quite a few people with foot issues and I've never seen wear and tear in the spot you have (between the ankle and heel). As Mike suggest, it looks like the L bar rubbing, I suspect your heel is lifting slightly in the pocket. Stable 26 socks with the right thickness insert would really help stop this (the possible lift and the rubbing) but a bake has to be your first course of action.
  7. Vet88
    Unless you specifically spend time during the training working on stopping, it isn't "just" going to happen. Stopping is one of the aspects between the 2 sports that is the most different. You really need to get to some public skates and practice stopping, the rink may be busy but I assume they have public sessions during evenings or weekends?
  8. Vet88
    Nice to see you improving. As I'm sure your coach says, stick on the ground, both hands on the stick and stick pointing in the direction you want to go. When you hold the stick in the air you can skate similar to how you do without a stick, when you put the stick on the ground in front of you with both hands on the stick it changes your skating stance hence more learning all over again. As you have a vid, vid yourself practising this then watch both, you will see what I mean. Also keep the vids and record yourself every month or 2 over the year then go back and watch them, it gives you a perspective as to how much you improve during the year as it is really hard to self analyse.
  9. Vet88
    Reading his post, he doesn't have VH yet but if he does consider them then circulation is a big concern given the problems he currently has in Mako 2's. I don't think this is the thread to address numbness in the foot, plenty of other threads in the forum for that. But if VH skates are made for your foot AND you don't have any physical problems (such as Raynauds or sever pronation or any other issues) then you should not get numbness in your feet.
  10. Vet88
    Couldn't agree more. Not only the PH balance but the amount you sweat I think is critical. For example 2 of us purchased some Mission Boss black inline skates at the same time, I killed the rivets in 2 months, his held out for 4 years and were still going strong. I sweat buckets, team mate hardly sweats at all. I wipe down and dry my skates (in a shock doctor bag with a blower) after every game to try and slow the process down but to no avail. Sweat eats away at eyelets and rivets and I've even had the magnesium chassis in my inlines start to delaminate because of sweat. But the equipment some manufacturers use is more resistant to sweat than others so it's not just one factor but a combination of personal circumstances and the quality of material / coating the manufacturer is using.
  11. Vet88
    At the end there you are starting to get close, push the right heel outwards a little bit more as the blade slides across the ice and you are nearly at an inside edge stop. Stop skating the length of the rink to practice a stop, you can practice stopping over 10 feet. You tube has lots of videos on how to stop, I won't cover it because you can get the basics from there. What I would recommend you do is practice, practice, practice one foot skating. Inside edges, outside edges, slalom work. Frontwards first then add backward skating as you get better. Learn to balance over the top of your skates, knees bent. You have to teach your foot and leg muscles how to do this, it doesn't come naturally. Shin pads or knee guards really do help as you are learning, as well as elbow pads. Falling is part of learning and getting better. Again, youtube is your friend. Search for things like "ice hockey edge control drills" or "ice hockey stops". The Howtohockey stuff by Jeremy is quite good and I really enjoy the itrain hockey videos, - for balance control - edge control, the bubble c cuts are something you need to start learning now - for backward edges (the first drill is semi advanced) - covers forwards skating, balance and stopping (I really like these series of videos they are doing, long but worth every minute of your time) - for intensive edge control and good explanations (again, I really like these "train the trainers" vids)and for the slalom work, as you start just focus on getting your skates to change direction (turn left then right then left etc) with little weaves as you move down the ice.
  12. Vet88
    I must admit the eyelet issue is one that has made me hold off on getting a pair so far. I sweat buckets when playing and have had many skates (ice and inline) fail on me because I destroy the eyelets. Paying significant $'s for a custom skate and having them fail on me after a couple of months is something I'm not prepared to do yet. Yes, you can get eyelets replaced but there is the additional cost, time, hassle and if your LHS has purchased eyelets that aren't properly coated or are made from a poor material then you are in the same boat a couple of months later, been there and done that..... Best eyelets that I have found (aside from the injected lacing version on my MX3's) are the ones Alkali use on their inline range, these are indestructible. I'd happily pay a few extra bucks to get a quality eyelet put in as opposed to what they use now.
  13. Vet88
    It's a great way to cut bolts / threaded rods etc, and haven't broken a blade since....
  14. Vet88
    Give it 2 - 3 weeks of decent skatiing to change over, if after that time you are still wishing you had hi lo's then consider a chassis swap, wheel change as mentioned above or a rear shim (but alkali's are quite agressivley pitched forward). Just enjoy the boot for a while, it is a million miles better than the t7. I know a lot of players who have switched from Missions to Alkalis and all of them are still in the boot without any other changes.
  15. Vet88
    You definitely are not a 6.5 if your foot is 26cm long. My foot is 25.5cm's long and I'm in a 6.5 RPD Max and my toes are just off the toe box when laced up. Aside from how you measure you foot length, by what you have said it looks like you are one of those who would ideally suit a 1/4 size but it isn't possible from retail boots. Shift+ and rpd max fit the same in length so go back and try your friend's boot again, pull the laces and tongue right out, foot in the boot, toes feathering the toe cap, bend forward and see if you can slide a pencil down the back of your heel between the heel and the boot. If you can comfortably slide the pencil down then go for a 7, if it's a tight squeeze you might consider a 7 if you know anywhere that can do a toe punch otherwise you are a 7.5. Alkali typically fit a 1/2 size up from Rbk - Rbk 7 ='s Alkali 7.5
  16. Vet88
    It may be worth it to to buy some "ball of foot" gel pads (like these http://www.amazon.com/PediFix-Pedi-gel-Ball-of-foot-Pad-2-Count/dp/B004G8G4V6)and insert them under your footbed. This will raise the front part of your foot by about 1mm, not enough to cause any volume issues in that area but enough to change the pressure on your arch.
  17. Vet88
    Yep, couldn't agree more. Sweat runs down your chassis, into your bearings and onto your wheels. You start slipping all over the place and if you don't clean your bearings immediately after use they start to rust. If you are sweating a lot in your boots I recommend getting some shammy material, cutting it to the shape of your foot bed and put it in your boot under your foot bed (or on top if want but I have never tried it there). The shammy absorbs all excess sweat, if you are playing lots of games in a day cut multiple shammys to swap them out as they get wet.
  18. Vet88
    A bake and then a settle in period will give you around 1mm of extra length. Ideally your toes should just be brushing the toe cap when you first try them on, if they are cramped then you should go a 1/2 bigger.
  19. Vet88
    How long do you want to wait? If you can find the max at a good price (on clearance now) it is a heck of a good skate, the max+, imho, was an upgrade with small improvements - Justin may weigh in with a slightly different view on the + :)
  20. Vet88
    If you are looking for boots that you can adjust the holder in (and not going the custom route with someone like VH) then look at Grafs. The way the Cobra holder is designed and the manner in which Graf mounts it on the boot means you can easily move it inwards by up to 2mm. If you have a little bit of handyman skills and a drill or rat tail file you can easily do it yourself. If you want any more info send me a pm. Because of how the holder is designed and mounted on most other brands (Bauer, Easton, CCM etc) moving the holder is not really possible. If you want to stay in the boot then you need to consider changing the holder for another brand like the Cobra 5000 and then redrilling the boot.
  21. Vet88
    Length wise, I have found you need to go up 1/2 a size in alkali ie an 8.5 in a vapour is a 9 in an Alkali. But it all depends on how you like your fit and how the vapour boot fits you. What is "too small" - length, width, volume?
  22. Vet88
    If you want to keep the steps then you need to take the 2 blades (Makos and steps) to a sharpener who can reprofile the steps to the mako shape. It doesn't have to be exact but the general profile of the mako blade needs to be followed. The mid point will most likely be a little different and the overall height will be lower (because of the amount of steel that may be ground off the steps) but at least they will be close enough to the mako steels that you will not notice much difference. Or stay with them and keep practicing. If you still don't like them after 20 hours of decent rink time then get them changed or swapped out.
  23. Vet88
    It all depends on you. Some players can adjust quickly to different profiles and setups, others can't. In general I have found that the better the skater you are, the less you worry about the setup and the more tolerance you have for changes. You can get the step blade reprofiled to the original mako blade but, looking at the 2 blades you have, you are going to lose a chunk of steel from the step blade in getting this done. At this point you have nothing to lose. Try a shallower hollow, give it a few weeks of practice and if you still don't like it then either swap back to the originals and sell the steps or get the steps reprofiled.
  24. Vet88
    The shop should take very little off with the 1st sharpening, in theory the edges should be clean, unnicked and relatively true so all they need to do is to grind the hollow deep enough for the edge to set. I agree with MTHockeydad, the difference is very noticeable. The black steel is much flatter thru various sections of the blade, ergo more blade on ice and hence the chatter in the stop and a different feel in turns. I can't comment on the size. I always get them sent unsharpened, this way I can be sure they are new / unused and my own sharpener gets first dibs at them.
  25. Vet88
    I would think it's 2 possible reasons, the edge is sharper / deeper than you had on the stock blades or the profile is different. You can check the latter by comparing them side by side, if you are getting chatter in stopping on a blade swap and the edge is similar it's normally because a different profile is putting more heel (ergo more steel) on the ice as you stop. and yes, I agree about the snow, mine always seem to be covered in ice but I'll happily take that over the stock steel that came with my grafs.
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