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boo10

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Posts posted by boo10


  1. When I was a kid I suffered from pretty bad lace bite, which would leave me almost unable to walk for days after a weekend tournament.  My father eventually made a pad out of cloth and sponge, that was similar in shape to a Forsberg pad.  He then stitched the pad to the bottom of my shinpad, so that it hung down inside my skate tongue, but wouldn't shift if the tongue started to move off to the side.  It actually helped keep the tongue in place as well.  Totally cured my lace bite, and I used those pads all the way up to Jr.


  2. 1 hour ago, Jbear said:

    I can try one for rec. wherein I gotta keep it low or hurt someone...use the P92 for my upper league games.  I wonder if that'll screw up all the stuff that is second nature with the 92? Only one way to find out I guess 🤣

    The P88 is a lower lie and the blade is a bit shorter. It's fairly easy to go back and forth, but there will definitely be an adjustment period every time you switch.  For me it's about 2 or 3 shifts, depending on how much I handle the puck.

    Keeping shots low with the P92 is actually pretty easy.  Just concentrate on rolling your wrists over when you shoot, and shoot more from the middle or mid-heel part of the blade.


  3. 1 hour ago, Vet88 said:

    Top of the ankle bone or the edge of the boot? Skating backwards shifts your weight forward in the skate and requires a lot more effort from the mid foot and ankle muscles to support you in the correct position. So you could be pronating slightly into the inside edge (top of the boot pain on the outside of the leg) or the heel is lifting more than you think it is and the ankle bone is hitting the top of the pocket (top of the ankle bone pain and can be on either side of the foot). For the former the first fix is to heat the top and roll it out, for the latter try a punch at the top of the pocket. Neither option address the root of the problem but they do provide a simple fix which is often all most players want.

    This actually makes quite a bit of sense to me.  I do pronate a little bit, but not enough to be a major issue.  I learned how to skate without laces when I was about 10 or 11 years old, so I don't need the boot to provide support.  I assumed that since an aggressive forward stride has me in a much deeper knee bend, that it must be something else.  My backwards skating style is to use rapid crossovers to quickly generate speed, so my weight is definitely distributed in a way that would out pressure on the sides of the boot.


  4. Being an older player, I grew up wearing softer skates (Daoust 301, Micron Mega 10-90, etc.).  I've tried skating in some high end modern skates that are very stiff (9090 Tacks, FT390, etc.) but find skating backwards in them causes pain above my ankles.  I don't think it's the side of the boot digging in where the comfort pads are, (though I guess it's possible).  Is this normal for a stiff skate during break in?  Skating forwards is pain free and I actually found the Tacks to be very comfortable.  The issue is only skating backwards.  I don't tie the top eyelet, and even dropped the top two, but still felt the pain near the ankles.


  5. You haven't mentioned budget or what type of stores you have access to, so I'm going to assume a $1,000 skate is not what you want and that you don't have access to EE Nexus.

    Jetspeeds are a little narrow up front, and definitely not appropriate for someone with very wide feet.  If I were you, I would try Tacks, and Supreme in 6.5, 7 and 7.5 EE..  You could also try a EE Ribcor, but it will definitely feel too narrow until it's baked.

    In Tacks you probably want the 9080, maybe 9070 or 9090.  In Supremes you're looking for an S29 or 2S.

    • Thanks 1

  6. 36 minutes ago, BenBreeg said:

    You could.  But it would serve the same purpose as a gap, it allows them to move independently.  I would assume a simple gap/cutout is cheaper.  It certainly is more recognizable.

    At minimum, that big ass hole could be reduced to a slot roughly 1mm across.  That hole as designed will lead to poor contact with any pick that is wobbling.  Sticks should be designed for gameplay conditions, not shooting in a lab.


  7. About me:

    Age: 47

    Height: 5'11”

    Weight: 190lbs

    Years playing: 43

    Highest level of play: Jr.A (a very long time ago)

    Current level of play: Beer League

     

    Notes to Reader:

    I usually cut about one or two inches off my sticks, so they tend to play about 5-10 points higher than the rated flex. Due to the fact that I grew up with wood, and later aluminum sticks, my perception of stiffness is influenced by that history. I always tape the the full length of the blade, including the toe, with an extra strip along the bottom, so I have never had a blade with chipping issues. I have used sticks at every price point from entry level right to top of the line.

    Stick Reviewed: Warrior Alpha QX3, 85 Flex, P88

    Blade: The blade on the QX3 is nice and stiff, but I would not describe it as either pingy or dampened. Puck feel is generally quite good, with it being easy to tell where the puck is on the blade. Receiving passes is smooth, and pucks do not bounce off the blade. My one complaint with the blade is that puck feel at the toe is not very good.

    Score: 8/10

    Shaft/Flex: Rounded corners give this stick a nice feel in the hands. Warrior says the QX line has a low kick point, but I'd say it feels more like a mid/low. The stick plays true to the flex rating for shooting, but feels surprisingly stiff during puck battles, which is excellent.

    Score: 10/10

    Weight/Balance: This stick is relatively light for the price point, coming in at around 430g. In comparison, my Nexus 1000 was about 415g, so the QX3 is certainly not heavy. In my hands, the QX3 feels quite blade heavy. I am not a fan of blade heavy sticks, as I find it makes the stick just feel heavy overall. To me, the QX3 feels just as heavy as a Supreme One.7, which weighs over 500g.

    Score: 6/10

    Shooting: Shooting with this stick is excellent. The stick is very easy to load, and you can feel the kick when you release the puck. The Saber Taper is supposed to keep the blade from torquing open on shots, but i find shots taken too close to the toe will cause the blade to open.

    Score: 9/10

    Passing/Stickhandling: Aside from the balance issues mentioned previously, the QX3 performs quite well in this area. The shaft has just the right stiffness for stickhandling, and blade feel is good. If not for the blade heavy feel, I'd say the QX3 is the perfect Dangler's stick.

    Score: 9/10

    Intangibles: I am generally not a fan of Warrior's graphics, as I find them a little loud for me, but the QX3 has to be one of the best looking sticks currently on the market. The blue, white, yellow and black graphics look fantastic.

    Summary: The QX3 is a great mid-pricepoint stick. If you're looking for the lightest stick out there with great balance, then the QX3 is probably not for you. On the other hand, if you want a stick that will perform very well without breaking the bank, then the QX3 could be just what you're looking for.

    Overall Score: 8.4/10


  8. 1 hour ago, Coldclay said:

    Now take that same 20lb sledgehammer and handle it with one hand. Tell me how balance point matters. It's not even an extreme example but illustrates my point better.

    A heavy stick is a heavy stick. Balance point is just a way to mask and trick your brain that it doesn't feel as heavy.

    I'm an advocate that light sticks are generally preferred over heavier sticks, hence why NOBODY chooses to use a frickin tree. Sure a stick may be 'too light' but a stick on the lighter side is what all the pro's use because they know this is a game of inches and if your stick is too heavy, you may get too tired or you may be half a second late to the puck.

    Actually, I think your one handed example supports my position.  It's much easier to maneuver the opposite end of the hammer when the weight is in your hand.  The same would hold true with a stick in that the blade is easier to maneuver when the balance point is closer to the hand.  You're correct that a heavier stick is a heavier stick, but we rarely move the whole stick without wrist movements.

    I'd agree with you that in general a 400g stick would be preferable to a 500g stick, but I don't think there's any evidence to show that the average pro or Joe would prefer a 375g stick over a 400g stick.  It's not unheard of for prostock sticks to be heavier than their retail counterpart.  I can guarantee that the One95 sticks Kane uses are probably heavier than the Vapors they're painted as.

    To each his own I guess.

    • Like 2

  9. 20 hours ago, Coldclay said:

    I don't understand why some would say stick weight matters little as long as it's 'balanced.' A heavy stick is a heavy stick no matter how you spin it. A 500g stick is a frickin log and I don't care how balanced it is. Sure a well-balanced stick is better than a 'not-well-balanced' stick, but c'mon, a heavy stick is annoying af when it comes to handling the puck/poke check etc with one hand, especially towards the end of the game when everyone is fatigued.

    I disagree.  A 500g stick is far from heavy, it's just heavier than a 400g stick.  Balance is just as important as weight.  Grab a 20lb sledgehammer and simulate stick handling, then turn it around and try again.  Tell me balance point doesn't matter.  It's an extreme example, but illustrates my point quite well.

    An extremely light stick might work best for you, but for others like myself, there is a point where a stick becomes too light.  Personally, I have found that the True A5.2 and Nexus 1000 have felt much lighter than the actually are because of how well balanced they are. On the flip side, my QX3 feels as heavy to me as a Supreme One.7, which is almost 100g heavier.  The QX3 is not heavy, but it feels heavy when I use it because the balance point is too low for my liking.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  10. 2 hours ago, krisdrum said:

    Nevermind, I found some videos.  I'll take a look, but think the 5 lie is flatter on the ice than the 5.5 lie is.  I know my toe tends to come up a bit with that curve. 

    Blade lie does matter, but in reality your mechanics will adjust to any lie with a bit of time.  I adjust to a new lie easily after about 15 minutes of ice time, but I have been playing for 44 years.  A less experienced player should be able to adjust within a couple of hours.  As @stick9 mentioned, you really just need to figure out the proper length for each lie/curve combination.


  11. 7 minutes ago, start_today said:

    Has anyone skates in both the s29 and 2s? I’m kinda torn between them. I have the exact opposite worries in each- that the s29 will be too soft and break down quickly, and that the s2 will be too stiff. I tried them both on in the store, but I’m not good at translating that to how they’ll feel on the ice.  

    Mid level adult league player, 4 times a week. I have 190s (not the s190, the MX3 line) now, so the 2s seems like the obvious choice and I’m overthinking. I know the 190 and 2s both have Curve composite, but it seems like there’s different types of Curve. 

    I’ll replace the steel with Step, so the garbage ls1 isn’t an issue. 

    The 2S is supposed to be between the S180 and S190, so it should be very close to your 190's in terms of stiffness.


  12. 55 minutes ago, shooter27 said:

    I don’t understand what this hole is supposed to do.  Isn’t it going to be mostly covered up by tape?

    My best guess is that it is supposed to allow the bottom part of the blade to flex more, (like a bow) which would theoretically increase shot velocity.

    I still think it's stupid!

    • Like 1

  13. It's a stupid, pointless hole in the stick.  Pucks are frequently bouncing or wobbling when they make contact with the blade.  That hole will just result in less solid contact.  I can also see that thin top section breaking easily from slashes, especially on faceoffs.  

    • Like 1

  14. 41 minutes ago, Vet88 said:

    And there is your answer, the toe and heels are completely different. You either stick with the 2s pro (LS5?) and adapt or find someone who can reprofile it to the MX3 shape. But as this is most probably a ground down wrecked profile you will always have to get your blades reprofiled to get the same feel.

     

    On 1/2/2020 at 10:15 AM, Lorent2 said:

     

    Can you change the runners between your skates?

    -->I have already change runners between skates, i have same problem with 2S skates.

    I don't know, unless I'm misinterpreting your previous statement, you already tried putting the old runners in the new skates and saw no improvement.  To me that means it's not solely the runner shape. You stated that your MX3 skates had CCM insoles, (which would lift your heel) but have not said if you tried using the CCM insoles in the 2S.

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