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hockeydad3 last won the day on March 2

hockeydad3 had the most liked content!

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  1. Finding a profile is somehow a mix of try and error, personal preferrence and habituation. If your profile changes through multiple sharpenings with very little steps, you won´t even notice it for a long time. And the better you can skate, the better you can cope with different profiles. The Prosharp recommendation for the Quad Zero profile is a 7/8" ROH. I would start one step lower with a 3/4" ROH if you are coming from a deeper hollow.
  2. I like the Quad XS for my TF7 6.5R. This profile is recommended from Prosharp for my skate size (5-6). With a 3/4" hollow(recommended by Prosharp) it has better speed and stability than the stock profile and the agility/acceleration is the same or better in my opinion. It's an improvement over the stock profile but do not expect a miracle. I also tried the Ellipse and Zuperior profiles, but for me they are too far away from the stock profile. You can get more information in the Ellipse profiles thread, and on the Prosharp homepage. From my experience (I have the Quad XS profiles tried at the end of 6 profiles) if I were you I would start with the Quad XS if your skates are the same size range as mine. However, I would combine it with an 11/16' hollow if you are coming from a 5/8" or deeper hollow.
  3. If 5/8" has enough grip, it's time to try 11/16. And so on, until you find a hollow which is definitely too shallow.
  4. I recieved an answer from Marsblade: "... When you are fastening the chassis' parts by screwing the M6 bolt into the pre-mounted T-nut, as soon as you feel the M6 bolt come to a stop DO NOT continue screwing as the chassis is fastened. ...When you have the chassis in your hands, you should definitely be able to feel/see the rocking motion of the chassis. However, you won't be able to feel the maximum rocking motion in your hands as the skates needs your whole body weight to work properly."
  5. Use thinner and longer non waxed laces(Elite Prolace or similar). And go to a shallower hollow(around 3/4").
  6. I would wait until the boots and insoles are broken in. At least 20h playing hockey. If it's still necessary than go for a pitch correction.
  7. When the bolt is tight, the chassis doesn't make a full movement to the end of the insert at the toe. This only happens when the bolt is not tight.
  8. My R1´s are brand new on my TF7´s. Didn´t skate on them, just rolling around some meters in my flat. Now I have some questions. How tight should the M6 bolt be? Do I have to stop when the washer touches the bushing, or when I can feel that the bolt has a metallic contact? Should the toe area of the insert have full contact with the lower chassis when I´m pressing the wheels towards the boot by hand(H8-T8), or has the bushing a breaking in period?
  9. Does any of the Prosharp owners have an explanation or solution to my problem?
  10. My LHS also has problems with uneven edges. I always ask him to check the edges.
  11. He did adjust. And the profile had the same properties like my newer higher steel, I did compare them on the ice. The lower steel just felt more stable for me so I went with the lower one until I noticed the catching of an edge.
  12. This could be. My LHS guy is very friendly but not 100% familiar with his machine.
  13. I know, but a Prosharp gives you an automated grind which, contrary to a free hand grind, should retain the profile.
  14. Maybe I didn't express myself clearly enough. I was only using one pair of runners for about 7 sharpenings with about 12h on the ice between them. The catching an edge is new for those runners, it started with the penultimate sharpening, got better after a few hours and was unbearable after the last sharpening (went from 7/8" to 3/4" due to a weight loss). The difference of the profiles begins after maybe 20% in the center of the blade towards the toe and the heel area. The whole profile is flatter, it looks like I would expect it for something like a Quad I. And the skating experience feels like I would expect it for a comparison between a Quad XS with maybe a Quad I. Can this be caused by an operating error, an incorrect setting or a defect in the grinding machine? Or is it typical for a Prosharp that it takes away more steel in the middle of the blade? The height of the runners is quite low due to some profiling experiments, can this be a reason for the alteration and should I remove them from the holder for grinding?
  15. Can it be that a Prosharp machine alters the profile of a runner due to repeated grinding? After about 7 sharpenings through my LHS with a Prosharp AS 2001 my runners with a Quad XS Profile began to have a tendency to catch an edge. I compared them with a second set of runners with a fresh profile on them. The fresh profile has less steel in the front and rear than the older one. The difference is not big but you can definitely feel it with your fingers. I made a direct comparison between the two sets of runners on the ice, the fresh ones are way more agile than the older ones and no more tendency to catch an edge. How can this happen even though the prosharp shouldn't change the profile?
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