hockeydad3

Dropping down skate size will move the pivot point towards your heel, the new skate will be stiffer and your steel will be higher. That´s a lot to adapt to, give it some time. What's the profile on your runners? Sometimes your skates are shipped with different runners, some could have the Bauer Power Profile, which is the Quad Zero XS for your runner legth. Others have a 10' single radius profile. If your´re on a 10' profile a Quad XS will give you a little more agility, glide and stability. Prosharps recommendation for your runner size with a multi profile is 3/4" ROH, if you are coming from a deeper hollow I´d suggest to try a 11/16" ROH.

Ellipse Zero with a 7/8 ROH is Prosharps recommendation for your skate size. If you are coming from a deeper hollow I would suggest to try it with a 3/4 ROH. Or try a Quad Zero (also recommendated from Prosharp for your skate size) with a 3/4 ROH, which has a more traditional feeling.

In a prosharp the runners are centered on the ice-side. If there is a pitch, than it is added to a new profile.

If the pitch or pivot point of a runner has been altered before, it has to be calculated into the profiling on a prosharp machine. Otherwise the new profile would be off center.

I'm between a Supreme D and Nexus D, high instep. Had serious pain issues in both. True TF7 solved my problems. Went down a half size compared to Bauer Supremes D.

Finding a profile is somehow a mix of try and error, personal preferrence and habituation. If your profile changes through multiple sharpenings with very little steps, you won´t even notice it for a long time. And the better you can skate, the better you can cope with different profiles. The Prosharp recommendation for the Quad Zero profile is a 7/8" ROH. I would start one step lower with a 3/4" ROH if you are coming from a deeper hollow.

I like the Quad XS for my TF7 6.5R. This profile is recommended from Prosharp for my skate size (5-6). With a 3/4" hollow(recommended by Prosharp) it has better speed and stability than the stock profile and the agility/acceleration is the same or better in my opinion. It's an improvement over the stock profile but do not expect a miracle. I also tried the Ellipse and Zuperior profiles, but for me they are too far away from the stock profile. You can get more information in the Ellipse profiles thread, and on the Prosharp homepage. From my experience (I have the Quad XS profiles tried at the end of 6 profiles) if I were you I would start with the Quad XS if your skates are the same size range as mine. However, I would combine it with an 11/16' hollow if you are coming from a 5/8" or deeper hollow.

If 5/8" has enough grip, it's time to try 11/16. And so on, until you find a hollow which is definitely too shallow.

I recieved an answer from Marsblade: "... When you are fastening the chassis' parts by screwing the M6 bolt into the pre-mounted T-nut, as soon as you feel the M6 bolt come to a stop DO NOT continue screwing as the chassis is fastened. ...When you have the chassis in your hands, you should definitely be able to feel/see the rocking motion of the chassis. However, you won't be able to feel the maximum rocking motion in your hands as the skates needs your whole body weight to work properly."

Use thinner and longer non waxed laces(Elite Prolace or similar). And go to a shallower hollow(around 3/4").

I would wait until the boots and insoles are broken in. At least 20h playing hockey. If it's still necessary than go for a pitch correction.

When the bolt is tight, the chassis doesn't make a full movement to the end of the insert at the toe. This only happens when the bolt is not tight.

My R1´s are brand new on my TF7´s. Didn´t skate on them, just rolling around some meters in my flat. Now I have some questions. How tight should the M6 bolt be? Do I have to stop when the washer touches the bushing, or when I can feel that the bolt has a metallic contact? Should the toe area of the insert have full contact with the lower chassis when I´m pressing the wheels towards the boot by hand(H8-T8), or has the bushing a breaking in period?

Does any of the Prosharp owners have an explanation or solution to my problem?

My LHS also has problems with uneven edges. I always ask him to check the edges.