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hockeydad3

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  1. Which outdoor wheels do you like most for unpainted concrete and smooth asphalt (outdoor hockey rinks in summer)? I´m 96kg and used Hyper Pro 150 83a(too slow), labeda asphalt 85a 4x80mm, they are fast and have a great wear resistance but lost the grip after a month and some weeks in the next season. Now I´m on prime centurio 82a/84a, bought at the end of last season. Our season (no locker room, no contact, 1,5m distance, max. 20 people and outdoor) will start in one week. If I´m not lucky with the centurios, which wheels should I try? I could get these wheels: Konixx Rocket 2x Revision Asphalt Pro RinkRat Trickster x 84a Base Sudden Death 84a Hyper Pro 250 84a Labeda Asphalt 83a Any experiences or suggestions? I´m searching for the perfect mix of speed and grip, not the cheapest or most durable wheels.
  2. My Zeus with the 3x100mm/215mm frame and the 50mm lower hockeyboot is more agile than your zoom. But if you can´t use the agility because of a significant lack of stability in gaming situations, than the 4x80mm setup is the better choice for you. And my skating abilities are far away from Bill Stoppard. It was part of the IIHF regulations some years ago. I have Bauer Supreme 6.5 D hockeyskates, the Next is a little bit narrower in the heel an has way more room in the midfoot/toe area and the Zeus(Powerslide) is between them. I even coudn´t slip into Vapors.
  3. I own a Reign Zeus (3x100mm/215mm, 4x80mm/243mm frames) and a Powerslide Next (3x110/243mm, 4x90mm/273mm frames). The Next is comparable to your Zoom, only the boot is 10mm higher. For inlinehockey on a smooth and clean concrete(outdoor hockey rink in summer) I prefer the Zeus because of the manueverability and weight. For urban djungle I prefer my Next because of the stability. On both skates i didn´t like the three wheel setup in case of stability issues, giving me the feeling like beeing on stilts. The rachets could be a risk of injury compared to a hockey-inlineskate. Maybe the official regulations require s special hockeyinlineskate like a hockeyskate for icehockey.
  4. What`s the advantage of mixing wheels of different durometers? And what do you prefer? Two soft wheels in the middle or two hard wheels in the middle? Two soft wheels in the front or in the back?
  5. Rotate the wheels when the highest point of the wheel is noticeable(2-3mm) off-center towards the outside of the boot. And change them from the position with higher wear to the position with lower wear. And from your dominant foot to the opposite one. Try to achieve a similar wear on all wheels regardless of a rotating pattern.
  6. Inline warehouse has a fit description of the different Inlinehockeyskates. If you search for "Hockey skates" you will find the diferent modells. Than you can scroll down the overview of each skate.
  7. I´m owning the Powerslide Next inlineskate. The fit of the boot is ok for me after widening the instep of the shell with a heatgun. In Bauer skates i´m fitting best into Supremes 6.5D, but missing the depth of Nexus-boots. The feeling of the Next 40/41(it seems that a lot of hardshell inlineskatesboots have multisize-shells with different liners) is a bit tighter in the heel and wider in the forefoot than my Supremes and shoudln´t be smaller. Maybe you could find a comparison between Next and FR boots. I had been giving the triskates two chances. First try have been my inlinehockeyskates Reign Zeus with a 3x100mm 215mm frame which i had to downgrade to 4x80mm 243mm frame because of stability and acceleration issues and second the Powerslide Next with a 3x110mm 243mm frame downgrading to a 4x90mm 273mm frame because of stability, hillclimbing and stopping issues. The three-bigwheel-design has advantages like speed and maneuverability but you have to be a decent skater in good condition and skate on a skating track with no hidden obstacles. My hockey inliners are great on a clean and smooth hockey rink but not supportive enough for me to skate around my living area. Due to the lockdown i only can skate around on sidewalks, bicycle paths and in parks with streetcrossings, stones, little branches, bumps, curbs, kids, byciclists, dogs, cars and so on around. I could compare the 4x80mm, 3x110mm and the 4x90mm frames on my Next boots which are very comfy, supportive and reactive and the 4x90mm has the best mix of stability, speed, smoothnes of rolling and controllability for me. If the wheels on your skates are spinning for some seconds than your bearings should be ok for skating around. The quality, size(bigger wheels have lower resistance), hardness(I prefer between 85A to 88A for the street) and condition of your wheels(completely or onesided worn) and the skating style(rolling on the inside edge and not on the flat) are more of importance for the speed.
  8. And you don`t have to be perfect. If you are off for one to max. two lines it`s Ok. And it´s more important to be square in the gliding area (the 60% in the middle of the blade) than in the toe and the heel area. And forget about grinding marks, if the blades are not square the grinding marks will be off center. Grinding ROH it is no problem if the pitch of the holder is off a little. Grinding FBV it is very important that the pitch of the holder is square.
  9. It is not usual. If you sharpen straight blades of the same thickness, remove the sand on the felt pad, let your machine warm up for some minutes, work in a room with constant temperature and have a failure free gauge and holder there shouldn't be any adjustments. And you can make a lot of other mistakes. Freehand sharpening needs some time and experience.
  10. If you have acces to get a multi radius profile the 0.5 sounds very interesting. Here around my location its like a miracle that i can get different FBV`s and single radius profiles. Until three years ago you could only get a house-cut and freehand profiles. @Tirkhe I think that the advantage of the FBV is that you can go as sharp as possible without sacrifying glide. To find your sweet spot you have to try different FBV`s until it`s too much edge for you, than go down one step. With ROH it`s more the opposite direction. And it depends on the hardness of the ice and your preference.
  11. Find a good store with an excellent fitting service and lot of options to try or go the custom way. I was 106kg and I have the skate size 6.5D. As a beginner I didn't know how a good fitting skate should feel like. My problems only appeared after some time on the ice. After four pairs of skates, hundreds of insoles and custom insoles I found an acceptable solution. At least the Bauer scanner was right for me. But forget everything below the 2S or 2N level because of the stiffnes and the heatmouldability. You will need good fitting and supportive skates to have fun on the ice. p. s. : Hockey will improve your fitness and health but will make you hungry. To loose weight you will have to reduce your calories input. With a zero sugar and low fat diet I could loose 20 pounds in three months and still had the power for hockey
  12. It has a sharper and deeper edge. Give it a try and than you know if it is better or not. Going to 95/50 is not a big jump, compared to the 1/2" standard ROH it is still very shallow. And you have to be a decent skater for a shallow hollow. Also don't forget you have a normal bodyweight.
  13. What do you want? More agility or more stability? I'm 95kg, and I'm on 92/75 on a 11"profile. I tried: 100/50: good glide and agility but not enough stability 95/75: good stability, medium glide and agility; best choice but I get knee pain. 92/75: best compromise without knee pain. Last season I tried a 92/50 on a 13"profile, it had very good glide and stability but almost no agility compared to the 11" profile. My suggestion for you is to try a 92/75 and see how it feels. The 11"profile is the best compromise between agility and glide/stability for me. If you still want more agility you have to go down on a 10"profile and get a sharper FBV/Roh.
  14. I´m 5`6.5" tall and i have to cut 4.5" off a 60" stick. Today my new True A6.0SBP intermediate 58flex 56" stick arrived. It has the same dimensions as my A5.2SBP senior 75flex 60" stick. I also have a Warrior QRE4 intermediate 70flex 57" stick. The shaft of the Warrior stick is giving me a noticeable thinner and less solid feeling compared to the True A5.2 although the circumference of the Warrior is only about 3mm shorter and the blade is about 3mm shorter. The Warrior stick feels off-ice a lttle stiffer than the A5.2 and the A6.0 feels noticeable softer than the A5.2, all of them having quite the same length. I´m interested if the cutting down made my A5.2 stiffer, maybe 85-90flex, or does it have the same flex as before if the True senior and intermediate sticks are measured with the same parameters/procedures? Am i comparing real 58flex with real 75flex if both sticks are cutted down to 55.5"? The reason for me to go down in flex is pain in my shoulder on my playing side after a hockey-session. More noticeable after playing two to three days in a row. This monday my shoulder exploded after a simple soft wristshot without a trauma. Today is the first day on which I can move my shoulder full and I´m quite sure that no damage will remain. I will try the softer stick after my shoulder completely calmed down. Has anyone of you made good experiences with going down in flex for shoulder pain?
  15. Over time my bauer waxed laces lost the waxbased grip. Some days ago i thought that i could rewax them with "snap wax" stick wax. Out of laziness i just pulled them out the upper four eylets and slided them along the waxblock on both sides. And wow, my skates had never been laced so perfect before. The waxed part was even more sticky than heavy waxed elite laces(Which i don´t really like because of the heavy wax), but it gave me a perfect heellock and a strong lateral support and i didn´t have to retie them over one hour which is usual for me. On the other hand my midfoot wasn´t tied too tight and did´t have pain usually caused by waxed laces. Has anyone of you made similar experiences?
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