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Slate
Blackcurrant
Watermelon
Strawberry
Orange
Banana
Apple
Emerald
Chocolate
Marble


Leif
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Everything posted by Leif
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The U.K./European price is £572. I can get a 1650 for ~£200 without foam, Peli foam is ~£60.
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Beaten to the post!
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I think the Sparx case is a Pelican 1650 with custom foam. They look identical.
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I agree, I was giving an example that showed that different blades burr differently. And I happened to do one pass today. Black steel has brittle edges due to high carbon content. Four passes doesn’t create huge burring on my blades. Of course if the edges are dinged, you’ll need four or more passes. Luckily mine weren’t. As an aside, a sharpener I know deburrs by pulling blades across a piece of soft wood. I tried that and it removed a bit of the sharpness or bite, definitely not something I will try again.
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I have Bauer LS5 which is a black steel. I’ve just done one pass, with a 7/16” wheel, and the burrs were very fine, and easily brushed off with a finger. Proper black steel has very hard edges, which probably create fine burrs as the black coating is brittle. I might try one pass per two hours. I marked the edges with a sharpie before the cut, and all of the ink was removed.
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Out on the ice today at 8:15am for and hour and a half of hockey with newly sharpened skates, apprehensive at first, but straight away it felt good, as good a sharpening as I’ve ever had, and I love freshly sharpened blades. The BAT gauge showed zero error. I’ll try two passes every 6-7 hours on ice, and see how it goes. I wonder what other people do in terms of number of passes, and how often. I used to get them sharpened every 16 hours or so.
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I believe you’d get the same reading from your BAT gauge on both sides of the blade, but reversed of course, if the blade sides were parallel and flat.
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This might be of interest: https://blogs.sparxhockey.com/uneven-edge-checker-reading
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There is an earlier post from Russ Layton CEO of Sparx in which he claims that the Sparx BAT gauges are each tested prior to shipping to ensure accuracy. I’m sure a LHS would allow a side by side check with their gauge if in doubt.
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The first sharpen I did was accurate to about 1/1000” but not quite as accurate as my LHS. I threw in a couple more clicks of the adjustment knob today, and the edges are now absolutely perfect. When I bought new skates last year, I was shocked to see that the old blades were nearly flat, repeated hand sharpening had changed the profile, causing issues with my skating. The fact that Sparx preserves the profile is yet one more plus for this machine. It’s expensive for us Brits and Europeans though! As an aside, how do I hone black steel ie Bauer LS5? I know not to use a honing stone on the sides.
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I had exactly the same issue with Step Steel. I don’t have problems with my new Bauer LS5. What you have is tapered blades, I don’t see how an edge checker could otherwise be out on one side. Step Steel gets rave reviews, but this suggests poor QC, and even though everyone says Step Black beats LS5, I might stick with LS5 when time to get new blades. I wonder if tapered blades would be sufficient cause to demand a refund or replacement? Pity as I prefer the less curved heel of Step.
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Mine arrived at work today, sent Monday evening from Sweden via Denmark, Germany and Belgium to England. What struck me is the sheer weight and size of the box. It’s very heavy. Back home it took me 30 minutes to unpack it, align the wheel, and sharpen my skates. A slight adjustment was needed, and my BAT gauge shows the edges are near perfect. I skated on them this evening, no complaints at all. They are good. I am impressed with the weight of the unit, and the quality feel. Yes it’s partly made out of plastic, but the quality is very high. Alignment is easy. Sharpening is very easy. I left it to take three cuts and prepared dinner. They appear to have ‘ripped off’the ProSharp unit, but in so doing they’ve made huge improvements to the ease of use. And massively reduced the price. The official travel case is a Pelican 1510. Does anyone know if the foam in the packing box can be used in a stock 1510 case?
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Ah, I guess you have to be up to date with modern communications methods then. I hate Fakebook, loathe it even though I have to use it for my hockey team and other hockey doo dahs. Fortunately I found their page: https://m.facebook.com/GrupoSparx/
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I’m rather surprised Sparx haven’t mentioned this given that I’ve been gnawing at their ankles over the last year, but the Sparx machines and accessories are now available in Europe from Monkey Sports in Sweden, about £1200 including shipping and VAT. The price is not unreasonable. Mine is in transit as I write. Last time I checked they still had stock.
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I have pads with d3o for public skating, and I wear Xion d3o boxer shorts beneath my hockey shorts. It’s fantastic stuff. There are other similar products, though I think d3o was the first to use a non Newtonian fluid. POC is similar, as good I think, and G-Form is an American copy, but my G-form elbow pads are not as good as d3o. Bauer use G-form in their ‘flex-orb’ padding. Where would you place it in skates and why? It is too thick for the toes and forefoot. So that really leaves the ankle region, and I guess it would provide protection from side impact and cushion the ankle. When I’ve taken shots to the boot, it’s been the toe and side of the forefoot that took the shock. I guess you could line the tongue, though it might be too soft, and create lace pressure so you’d need a hard over layer. I often wonder why felt is so widely used since it wears, but it is cheap and easy to work, so maybe that is the answer.
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Thanks both. I already have an edge checker, one of the cheap Canadian eBay ones, it works well. I had a ProSharp one but it was out by two thou.
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Does the consumer grade machine come with the optical alignment tool, or do you need to buy that as well? Aha, just checked the manual, and it does.
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Sniper9: I'm discovering with my Bauer customs that I shouldn't tighten the laces as much as I used to. Maybe this is a feature of high end skates. Interesting about your Trues, a friend tightens his as much as he can and gets numb feet. Says he lacks control if he does not do that.l
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It just occurred to me that a better option is for smu to start a new thread, using his second from last post, and people can comment if they wish, rather than use this thread for one issue. That way everyone is happy. Just a suggestion folks.
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I know smu has been annoying in the past by repeating himself in numerous long winded posts, but this time I think he has given a very succinct summary of his issues, with an update on the third pair - 😲 - , and the fact that he still does not have a skate that fits - the heel is far too wide - is shocking. Perhaps people here who fit skates can comment. In his position I would be looking for a full refund and moving to a custom skate from Bauer or CCM. Assuming they can fit skates to his feet. I suppose it is possible that he had such strange feet that they are unfittable. Or perhaps only True can not accommodate him.
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When Did You Get Bored With Acquiring New Hockey Gear?
Leif replied to beerleaguecaptain's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
I stay away from expensive/performance cars, the depreciation is silly. And the price of new tyres and servicing is enough to give me nightmares. I have top end gear and custom skates, for protection and comfort. I recently took a slap shot to the head and felt nothing, not because I’m thick, but due to the helmet design. I can’t see any reason to get new gear. In future my money is going on hockey training at a local sports centre. -
Perhaps they need it clearly explaining to them (in big letters) that the skates require adjustments, they might be used to skates that either fit out of the box, or do so after a simple bake. People sometimes don't hear something they are told, I've done it myself. However, my comment was in response to this: That just seems odd, if that really is your impression then fair enough. I can't imagine ordering a custom product in the hope that it does not fit.
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I prefer wider unwaxed laces, the extra width makes them easier to grip and causes less discomfort in the hands. They also tend to slip less in the eyelets. The default Bauer laces are narrow and soft, horrible, no idea about Trues.
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Even though I have Bauer customs, not Trues, I think the question is relevant. My understanding is that custom skates are designed to be a close fit, to remove what most people call negative space, or empty space (which I think is a clearer description). Anyway, I have had sore toes, where the sides of my toes rub against the sides of the skates. Is this normal? I discovered that if I wore soft wool socks, not only does this stop the rubbing (or more accurately, the discomfort from rubbing), but my feet are warmer.
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Sk8Stk: I don’t have the knowledge to comment on most of your post, but your suggestion that some people pay a significant sum of money and want the skate to not fit is bizarre. Are you really asking us to believe that? It’s possible they think they should fit from the word go, and aren’t willing to have them adjusted. As an aside, socks make a difference. I got pain today when wearing thin cheap socks, and none when wearing wool skiing socks, I think the latter are softer and warmer.